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"Biddle-Perry, Geraldine"
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Dressing for austerity : aspiration, leisure and fashion in post-war Britain
A new look for austerity...The coldest winter on record, rationing, successive economic crises, bombed out towns and cities; with some justification 'austerity Britain' in the late 1940s is colored in the popular imagination in tones of drab. Dressing for Austerity shines a light on alternative visions of post-war optimism and aspiration. It traces how, set against the Labour government's philosophy of 'austerity by design' in a climate of post-war idealism, the desire for affordable fashionable clothing, access to leisure, and the health, time and money to enjoy them became totemic symbols of post-war ambition that impelled new strategies of state control and consumer agency. The book examines the immediate post-war period - its politics, its fashions and its people - in new ways and on its own terms as a critical tipping point in the making of modern Britain.--Adapted from dust jacket.
Book
Clothing the British Olympic Ideal: The Emergence of Olympic Ceremonial Attire, 1896-1924
The history of sporting clothing has complex inter-connections with the wider fashioning of modern subjectivities. However, this remains an overlooked aspect of sports, leisure and fashion historical studies. This essay looks at the relationship between the constitution of modern Olympic bodies and the allied evolution of new forms of sporting dress from the late nineteenth century. The historical emergence of the modern nation state provides a conceptual framework within which to examine the formative development of British Olympic ceremonial attire from the inception of the modern Olympic movement in 1896, through to the opening ceremony of the Paris Games of 1924. The essay focuses on British male Olympic team members and interrogates how new forms of sporting ceremonial clothing historically functioned to fashion a highly politicized discourse of Olympic sporting nationhood.
Journal Article
Bury Me in Purple Lurex: Promoting a New Dynamic between Fashion and Oral Historical Research
In the field of the historical study of fashion and dress the use of oral history as a research methodology to date is limited. The purpose of this essay is to reflect why this might be, situating such lack in relation to both oral and fashion historical studies' own battles with academic prejudice and, further, to disciplinary disjunctures within the field of fashion and dress itself. More controversially, it will suggest that the resulting historiographical lacuna is one equally inflected with prejudices from within both fields towards each other. At the same time however, it also hopes to demonstrate the ways in which dress-based oral history testimonies might contribute to a progressive and mutually informative dialogue between clothing and oral historians and their research.
Journal Article
A cultural history of hair
How have our attitudes to hair changed over time? In what ways have new technologies influenced hair-related practices and beliefs? Is hair just about fashion or does it express social, spiritual, and cultural meanings? In a work that spans nearly 3,000 years these ambitious questions are addressed by 60 experts, each contributing their overview of a theme applied to a period in history. With the help of a broad range of case material they illustrate trends and nuances of the culture of hair in Western societies from ancient times to the present. Volume editors ensure the cohesion of the whole, and to make the set as easy as possible to use, chapter titles are identical across each of the volumes. This gives the reader the choice to gain an overview of a period by reading one volume, or to follow a theme through history by reading the relevant chapter in each volume.
Book