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"Kerper, Barrie"
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FORAGING
2005
There are many enticing shop windows as you stroll along the boulevards beside the Arno River in Florence. But there is only one window that displays an object so remarkable that it may literally stop you in your...
Newspaper Article
Florence, Italy: Ducci
2005
The Ducci art gallery is, perhaps, the only place in Italy to buy pale, the wooden baker's shovels that are the symbol of the Accademia della Crusca, Europe's oldest language academy, founded in 1582 in Florence. Led by the distinguished 16th-century grammarian Leonardo Salviati, the group's original aim was the preservation of the Italian language as exemplified by the 14th-century writers Boccaccio, Petrarch and Dante. Today, La Crusca remains one of the world's leading language institutions. La Crusca is a 20-minute ride from central Florence in the Medici Villa di Castello, Via di Castello, 46; (39-055) 454-2778; www.accademiadellacrusca.it. Appointments can be made to tour the impressive Sala delle Pale, where the original pale are hung. BARRIE KERPER
Newspaper Article
Along the Road of the Artisans
2004
This lovely village is the Strada's spiritual heart. It was here, in the mid-1960s, that the movement to revive the villages began. In 1964, a few residents created La Corsicada, a cooperative association that reconstructed buildings and revived village crafts under an apprentice system. And in 1978, the association founded E Voce di U Commune (The Voices of the Community) to preserve the cultural patrimony of Corsica, especially its rich music tradition. Pigna's success inspired neighboring villages, and for about 12 years young artisans have been encouraged to live and work in Strada villages in exchange for government grants. Near his studio, the small but well-stocked Casa di l'Artigiana offers a well-chosen selection of Corsican products, most from the Balagne. I was happy to find essential oils, candles and aromatic crystals for the vacuum cleaner that all have a scent of maquis, that pungent underbrush of cistus, myrtle, lavender, rosemary, thyme and arbutus that covers much of the island. A Corsican friend told me that each time she returns, the evocative smell of the maquis brings tears to her eyes. An exiled Napoleon is said to have claimed he could recognize his homeland with his eyes shut by the smell of the maquis alone. [Pasquale Paoli] chose an un-Corsican grid plan for his new town, whose raison d'etre was the exportation of Balagne olive oil. [L'le Rousse]'s columned market is a national monument, and shady Place Paoli is particularly pleasant. Even so, I prefer [Calvi], with its crescent beach, its 13th-century citadel and its lively town center, with snow-topped mountains on the horizon. (Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly honeymooned there).
Newspaper Article
ALONG THE ROAD OF THE ARTISANS
2004
THE Balagne is a mountainous area in the northwest corner of Corsica, often called \"the garden of Corsica\" because of its agricultural riches. The heart of this enticing region, an area where many of Corsica's traditions developed and where life remained virtually unchanged until the...
Newspaper Article
Along the Road of the Artisans
2004
THE Balagne is a mountainous area in the northwest corner of Corsica, often called ''the garden of Corsica'' because of its agricultural riches. The heart of this enticing region, an area where many of Corsica's traditions developed and where life remained virtually unchanged until the 20th century, is a thread of high-perched towns -- villages perches -- flanked on either end by the coastal towns of Calvi and L'Ile Rousse. FROM the heights, we drove down to the equally beautiful Balagne coast, which is far less developed than other popular coastal areas on Corsica or the Cote d'Azur across the Mediterranean. Calvi and L'Ile Rousse, at either end of the Strada, 15 miles apart, are among Corsica's nicest resort towns, and both offer a range of accommodations. L'Ile Rousse is noteworthy as the planned port community ordained by Pasquale Paoli, who in the 18th century gave Corsica a democratic government far ahead of its time and became the island's first internationally known son. (He's buried in Westminster Abbey, and towns in Pennsylvania, Indiana, Oklahoma and Colorado are named after him.) Paoli chose an un-Corsican grid plan for his new town, whose raison d'etre was the exportation of Balagne olive oil. L'Ile Rousse's columned market is a national monument, and shady Place Paoli is particularly pleasant. Dining on seafood at the Bout du Monde on the beach at Calvi. (Photo by Ed Alcock for The New York Times); The Casa di l'Artigiani in [Pigna] sells products from the region. Visitors inspect tableware at Ceramica di Pigna, where [Jacky Quilichini] works on a lampshade.; The terrace of the U Palazzu hotel in Pigna. The main square in the village of Calenzana. (Photographs by Ed Alcock for The New York Times)
Newspaper Article