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Cultures of Nasturtium officinale were cultivated in vitro under illumination with different wavelengths of light-emitting diode (LED) light (white LED light—WLED, blue light—B, red light—R, 70% red and 30% blue light—RB, 50% green, 35% red and 15% blue light—RBG, 50% yellow, 35% red and 15% blue light—RBY, 50% far red, 35% red and 15% blue light—RBfR, 50% UV, 35% red and 15% blue light—RBUV, darkness—D), and under white fluorescent light (WF)—control conditions. The study investigated the influence of the applied lighting conditions on biomass growth and the production of glucosinolates, phenolic compounds, as well as photosynthetic pigments, and soluble sugars. The study showed a significant beneficial effect of the RBG light on biomass growth (Gi = 11.81 after 20 days) and the production of glucosinolates. The total glucosinolate content under these conditions increased 5.8 and 1.4 times in comparison with the WF light and D condition, respectively, reaching 237.92 mg 100 g−1 DW. The production of phenolic compounds, sugars, and photosynthetic pigments was comparable to the production under the control conditions. The antioxidant potential of extracts from the cultivated biomass was assessed by the CUPRAC, DPPH, and FRAP assays. Extracts obtained from the biomass of cultures grown under the RBG light had an antioxidant potential similar to that of the control cultures. This is the first report providing evidence of the stimulating effect of light quality on the biomass yield and production of glucosinolates by N. officinale microshoot cultures in vitro.Key messageThe studies of different LED light quality on Nasturtium officinale microshoot cultures were proven that combination of 50% green, 35% red and 15% blue lights stimulated the production of glucosinolates, phenolic compounds, photosynthetic pigments, and influenced on the antioxidant potential of biomass extracts.

This review presents important botanical, chemical and pharmacological characteristics of Citrus limon (lemon)—a species with valuable pharmaceutical, cosmetic and culinary (healthy food) properties. A short description of the genus Citrus is followed by information on the chemical composition, metabolomic studies and biological activities of the main raw materials obtained from C. limon (fruit extract, juice, essential oil). The valuable biological activity of C. limon is determined by its high content of phenolic compounds, mainly flavonoids (e.g., diosmin, hesperidin, limocitrin) and phenolic acids (e.g., ferulic, synapic, p-hydroxybenzoic acids). The essential oil is rich in bioactive monoterpenoids such as D-limonene, β-pinene, γ-terpinene. Recently scientifically proven therapeutic activities of C. limon include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer and antiparasitic activities. The review pays particular attention, with references to published scientific research, to the use of C. limon in the food industry and cosmetology. It also addresses the safety of use and potential phototoxicity of the raw materials. Lastly, the review emphasizes the significance of biotechnological studies on C. limon.

Artemisia species play a vital role in traditional and contemporary medicine. Among them, Artemisia abrotanum, Artemisia absinthium, Artemisia annua, Artemisia dracunculus, and Artemisia vulgaris are the most popular. The chemical composition and bioactivity of these species have been extensively studied. Studies on these species have confirmed their traditional applications and documented new pharmacological directions and their valuable and potential applications in cosmetology. Artemisia ssp. primarily contain sesquiterpenoid lactones, coumarins, flavonoids, and phenolic acids. Essential oils obtained from these species are of great biological importance. Extracts from Artemisia ssp. have been scientifically proven to exhibit, among others, hepatoprotective, neuroprotective, antidepressant, cytotoxic, and digestion-stimulating activities. In addition, their application in cosmetic products is currently the subject of several studies. Essential oils or extracts from different parts of Artemisia ssp. have been characterized by antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant activities. Products with Artemisia extracts, essential oils, or individual compounds can be used on skin, hair, and nails. Artemisia products are also used as ingredients in skincare cosmetics, such as creams, shampoos, essences, serums, masks, lotions, and tonics. This review focuses especially on elucidating the importance of the most popular/important species of the Artemisia genus in the cosmetic industry.

Biscutella laevigata (Brassicaceae) is an endemic species confined to European mountain regions, with a distribution range extending from the Iberian Peninsula through the Carpathians to the Balkans. The objective of this study was to investigate the phytochemical composition and biological properties of extracts obtained from leaves, seeds, and in vitro-derived microshoot cultures. UHPLC-DAD-MS/MS profiling of glucosinolates (GSLs) revealed six compounds exclusively present in seed extracts, with glucohirsutin identified as the predominant constituent (15.06 mg/100 g DW). No glucosinolates were detected in either leaf or microshoot extracts. Notably, 8-(methylsulfonyl)octyl GSL was reported in B. laevigata for the first time. The seed extract exhibited the highest total polyphenol content (TPC, 25,701.00 mg GAE/100 g DW), while leaf and microshoot extracts contained similar amounts (16,244.00 and 16,552.00 mg GAE/100 g DW, respectively). Among phenolic compounds, rutin was the most abundant, reaching up to 1609.21 mg/100 g DW in leaf extracts. Antioxidant capacity, assessed by ABTS and DPPH assays, was strongest in the seed extract (90.56% and 69.24% inhibition, respectively). The same extract demonstrated the greatest anti-elastase activity (12.68%), whereas the microshoot extract displayed a considerable Fe2+-chelating ability (12.48%). All tested extracts showed antimicrobial potential against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Cutibacterium acnes, and the fungus Candida albicans.

Paclitaxel is a broad-spectrum anticancer compound, which was derived mainly from a medicinal plant, in particular, from the bark of the yew tree Taxus brevifolia Nutt. It is a representative of a class of diterpene taxanes, which are nowadays used as the most common chemotherapeutic agent against many forms of cancer. It possesses scientifically proven anticancer activity against, e.g., ovarian, lung, and breast cancers. The application of this compound is difficult because of limited solubility, recrystalization upon dilution, and cosolvent-induced toxicity. In these cases, nanotechnology and nanoparticles provide certain advantages such as increased drug half-life, lowered toxicity, and specific and selective delivery over free drugs. Nanodrugs possess the capability to buildup in the tissue which might be linked to enhanced permeability and retention as well as enhanced antitumour influence possessing minimal toxicity in normal tissues. This article presents information about paclitaxel, its chemical structure, formulations, mechanism of action, and toxicity. Attention is drawn on nanotechnology, the usefulness of nanoparticles containing paclitaxel, its opportunities, and also future perspective. This review article is aimed at summarizing the current state of continuous pharmaceutical development and employment of nanotechnology in the enhancement of the pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic features of paclitaxel as a chemotherapeutic agent.

In this study, methanol and water–methanol extracts of borage (Borago officinalis) herb dried using various methods were analysed for their phenolic profile and biological activity. Twelve compounds, including flavonoids (astragalin, kaempferol 4-glucoside, rutoside, and vitexin) and phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic, ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, rosmarinic, and syringic), were determined qualitatively and quantitatively in B. officinalis extracts by the HPLC-DAD method. The highest total flavonoid content was confirmed for the methanol extract from the hot-air-dried herb, while the methanol extract from the air-dried herb was most abundant in phenolic acids. The results of in vitro tests on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ) showed that the extracts were able to reduce the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species in skin cells. Tests performed to assess inhibition of protein denaturation, lipoxygenase activity, and proteinase activity demonstrated that borage extracts have anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the methanol extract of the herb dried in a convection oven showed the strongest inhibition of both collagenase and elastase activity, which is indicative of anti-ageing properties. The results show that the borage extracts are a source of valuable bioactive compounds with beneficial properties in the context of skin cell protection.

The aim of this review is to perform a systematic review of scientific papers and an in-depth analysis of the latest research related to Paeonia × suffruticosa Andrews as a valuable plant species, important in pharmacy and cosmetology. P. × suffruticosa bark root-Moutan cortex is a medicinal raw material formerly known from traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) but less common in official European medicine. It was introduced for the first time in the European Pharmacopoeia Supplement 9.4 in 2018. In this work, the numerous possible applications of this raw material were depicted based on modern professional pharmacological studies documenting its very valuable medicinal values, including antioxidant, cytoprotective, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, cardioprotective, anti-atherosclerotic, anti-diabetic and hepatoprotective activities. The scientific studies indicated that the profile of raw material activity is mainly due to paeonol, paeoniflorin and 1,2,3,4,6-penta-O-galloyl-β-D-glucopyranose. Moreover, the significance of this plant (its different organs) in the production of cosmetics was underlined. P. × suffruticosa finds increasing application in cosmetology due to research on its chronic dermatitis, anti-aging and brightening effects. Furthermore, some biotechnological research has been described aimed at developing effective in vitro micropropagation protocols for P. × suffruticosa.

The study has proved the stimulating effects of different strategies of treatments with elicitors on the production of glucosinolates (GSLs), flavonoids, polyphenols, saccharides, and photosynthetic pigments in watercress ( Nasturtium officinale ) microshoot cultures. The study also assessed antioxidant and anti-melanin activities. The following elicitors were tested: ethephon (ETH), methyl jasmonate (MeJA), sodium salicylate (NaSA), and yeast extract (YeE) and were added on day 10 of the growth period. Cultures not treated with the elicitor were used as control. The total GSL content estimations and UHPLC-DAD-MS/MS analyses showed that elicitation influenced the qualitative and quantitative profiles of GSLs. MeJA stimulated the production of gluconasturtiin (68.34 mg/100 g dried weight (DW)) and glucobrassicin (65.95 mg/100 g DW). The elicitation also increased flavonoid accumulation (max. 1131.33 mg/100 g DW, for 100 μM NaSA, collection after 24 h). The elicitors did not boost the total polyphenol content. NaSA at 100 μM increased the production of total chlorophyll a and b (5.7 times after 24 h of treatment), and 50 μM NaSA caused a 6.5 times higher production of carotenoids after 8 days of treatment. The antioxidant potential (assessed with the CUPRAC FRAP and DPPH assays) increased most after 24 h of treatment with 100 μM MeJA. The assessment of anti-melanin activities showed that the microshoot extracts were able to cause inhibition of tyrosinase (max. 27.84% for 1250 µg/mL). Key points • Elicitation stimulated of the metabolite production in N. officinale microshoots. • High production of pro-health glucosinolates and polyphenols was obtained. • N. officinale microshoots have got tyrosinase inhibition potential. • The antioxidant potential of N. officinale microshoots was evaluated. Graphical abstract

Schisandra rubriflora is a dioecious plant of increasing importance due to its lignan composition, and therefore, possible therapeutic properties. The aim of the work was lignan profiling of fruits, leaves and shoots of female (F) and male (M) plants using UHPLC-MS/MS. Additionally, the anti-inflammatory activity of plant extracts and individual lignans was tested in vitro for the inhibition of 15-lipooxygenase (15-LOX), phospholipases A2 (sPLA2), cyclooxygenase 1 and 2 (COX-1; COX-2) enzyme activities. The extracts of fruits, leaves and shoots of the pharmacopoeial species, S. chinensis, were tested for comparison. Twenty-four lignans were monitored. Lignan contents in S. rubriflora fruit extracts amounted to 1055.65 mg/100 g DW and the dominant compounds included schisanhenol, aneloylgomisin H, schisantherin B, schisandrin A, gomisin O, angeloylgomisin O and gomisin G. The content of lignan in leaf extracts was 853.33 (F) and 1106.80 (M) mg/100 g DW. Shoot extracts were poorer in lignans—559.97 (F) and 384.80 (M) mg/100 g DW. Schisantherin B, schisantherin A, 6-O-benzoylgomisin O and angeloylgomisin H were the dominant compounds in leaf and shoot extracts. The total content of detected lignans in S. chinensis fruit, leaf and shoot extracts was: 1686.95, 433.59 and 313.83 mg/100 g DW, respectively. Gomisin N, schisandrin A, schisandrin, gomisin D, schisantherin B, gomisin A, angeloylgomisin H and gomisin J were the dominant lignans in S. chinensis fruit extracts were. The results of anti-inflammatory assays revealed higher activity of S. rubriflora extracts. Individual lignans showed significant inhibitory activity against 15-LOX, COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes.

Moringa oleifera Lam. (Moringaceae) is a species of tree with an increasing utility, occurring naturally mainly in Pakistan and northern India. M. oleifera is currently cultivated in Africa, South America, Asia and the Middle East. The usage of its leaves, seed oil, bark, fruits, flowers and roots has positive opinions of FDA (American Food and Drug Administration), EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) and CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredients database). The chemical composition of M. oleifera is dominated by: proteins (consisting mainly of amino acids such as arginine or serine), fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6), vitamins (vitamin A, B and C and tocopherols), mineral salts (including several bioelements, such as calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium), valuable polyphenolic compounds from the group of phenolic acids (e.g., gallic acid, ferulic acid) and flavonoids (e.g., myricetin, rutoside, and kaempferol). The raw materials show antioxidant, hepatoprotective, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Dietary supplements and alimentary products containing M. oleifera are recommended as health-promoting and “novel food” preparations. The main purpose of this work was a review of the latest scientific literature on M. oleifera , with particular emphasis on the studies focusing on its chemical composition, biological activity and safety. Moreover, the review tends to discuss the results of biotechnological studies using this material and the agronomical significance.