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Behind the big house is a little one, the Stockli, or dower house. In the Emmental, the farms are inherited by the youngest son. As the parents pass the farm on they move into this smaller house, near enough to help, but under another roof. Like the Bauernhaus, the Stockli is made of weathered wood and hung with flowers. The third building, near the Stockli, is the Speicher, or storehouse, often ingeniously carved and painted. The Speicher once contained everything of value to the family: heirlooms, precious cloth, dried meat and fruit, even family documents. Jeremias Gotthelf, a 19th-century Emmental pastor who wrote stories about his native region, called the storehouse ''the great treasury of a farm; consequently it usually stands a little removed from the house so that, if the house goes up in flames, it can still be saved, and when the house begins to burn the farmer shouts: 'Save the store, the other house doesn't matter so much.' '' Today the Speicher is used mainly to store herbs, extra preserves and odds and ends. In one room she keeps a year's supply of apple cider, both sweet and hard, made on the farm from the Langeneggers' own apples. Some of the cider is stored in wooden barrels, the rest in huge glass jugs. [Elsbeth Langenegger] explained that cider used to be heated and stored inside wooden casks, giving the cider a slightly woody taste, but that cider keeps better over the long winter when stored in glass. Near the cider racks were barrels of cherries, fermenting for Schnapps, also made on the farm. The Swiss Government allows farmers to distill three liters of alcohol for every cow they own. This Schnapps allowance is based on the dairy herd because when an Emmental cow calves, the farmer gives her a mixture of one half liter each of Schnapps and coffee, as a restorative. ''And also,'' Elsbeth told us, ''if a cow has stomach problems, we give her Schnapps.'' Emmental farm families rise early. On every farm the cows are milked at 5:15 and then driven out to graze. (Guests can stay in bed a little longer and watch the second milking at 5 P.M.) One of the men brings the morning's milk over to the Chasi - the Swiss dialect word for cheese dairy, where milk is turned into Emmental cheese. The cheese is not mass-produced at a giant factory; instead, there are several dozen of these small dairies all over the Emmental, each employing two or three people. (If you want to visit a Chasi and watch the cheese-making process, the farm family you stay with or the Langnau tourist office can make arrangements.) At 7 A.M., after two hours of work - the pigs and other animals must be fed after the cows are tended to - the family gathers in the wood-paneled kitchen and sits down to a breakfast table laid with Elsbeth's bread, butter, homemade jam and cheese. The table is laid in front of the window, with a view of fields and apple trees. Elsbeth and her apprentice cook on a big wood stove, using a small electric stove on warm summer days. Firewood is stacked in a great open cabinet in the kitchen, near the pantry, which is painted with folk-art designs.