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Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world’s most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited sand supply and limited influence of tide and geology, beach change has long been conceptualised in the morphodynamic framework of Wright and Short (1984). Such framework describes the occurrence of beach types based on wave conditions and sediment characteristics across the complete reflective–dissipative spectrum. Building on theoretical work, field/laboratory measurements and monitoring programmes, the physical mechanisms underpinning this morphodynamic framework have been progressively unravelled. Cross-shore morphological changes are primarily controlled by equilibrium and beach memory principles with below (above) average wave conditions driving down-state (up-state) transitions associated with onshore (offshore) sediment transport. Such cross-shore behaviour mostly reflects the imbalance between the onshore-directed sediment transport driven by wave nonlinearities and the offshore-directed sediment transport driven by the undertow. Self-organised morphological instabilities resulting from different positive feedback mechanisms are primarily responsible for alongshore morphological variability and the generation of rhythmic morphological features, such as crescentic bars, rip channels and beach cusps. Critically, wave climate and changes in wave regimes are key in driving the coupled cross-shore and longshore behaviour that ultimately explains modal beach state and frequency-response characteristics of beach morphological time series.

Beaches are highly variable environments and respond to changes in wave forcing, themselves modulated by climate variability. Here, we analyze three high‐quality beach profile data sets to robustly investigate, for the first time, the link between shoreline change, wave forcing and climate variability along the Atlantic coast of Europe. Winter wave conditions are strongly associated with North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and Western Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA), with WEPA explaining 50%–80% of the winter wave power variability. Shoreline variability during winter is also strongly linked to NAO and WEPA, with WEPA explaining 25% of the winter shoreline variability. Winter wave conditions and associated shoreline variability are both unrelated to El Nino Southern Oscillation. In addition to the atmospherically‐forced beach morphological response, shoreline change also depends strongly on the antecedent morphology as evidenced by significant correlations between summer/winter shoreline response and the shoreline position at the start of each season. Plain Language Summary Beaches change as a result of changes in the wave conditions, and the weather and climate controls wave conditions. We surveyed two beaches in SW England and one beach in SW France every month for more than 15 years and analyzed these data to look, for the first time, at the connections between beach change, waves and climate along the Atlantic coast of Europe. Atmospheric indices are numbers that tell us about large‐scale weather, and the North Atlantic Oscillation and the Western Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) are powerful indices that describe the weather in the north‐east Atlantic. We found that especially WEPA is strongly correlated with winter waves and beach change during the winter months for all three study sites. We also found that beach change over the summer and winter season depends very much on whether the beach is relatively healthy or depleted of sediment. Key Points Three beach profile data sets are used to investigate link between shoreline change, waves and climate along the Atlantic coast of Europe Winter wave conditions and shoreline change are correlated with atmospheric indices North Atlantic Oscillation and Western Europe Pressure Anomaly, but uncorrelated to El Nino Southern Oscillation Antecedent beach morphology is an important factor in determining summer and winter shoreline response

Coral reef islands are amongst the most vulnerable environments to sea‐level rise (SLR). Recent physical and numerical modeling studies have demonstrated that overwash processes may enable reef islands to keep up with SLR through island accretion. Sediment supply to these islands from the surrounding reef system is critical in understanding their morphodynamic adjustments, but is poorly constrained due to insufficient knowledge about sediment delivery rates. This paper provides the first estimation of sediment delivery rates to coral reef islands. Analysis of topographic and geochronological data from 28 coral reef islands indicates an average rate of sediment delivery of c. 0.1 m3 m−1 yr−1, but with substantial inter‐island variability. Comparison with carbonate sediment production rates from census‐based studies suggests that this represents one quarter of the amount of sediment produced on the reef platform. Results of this study are useful in future modeling studies for predicting morphodynamic adjustments of coral reef islands to SLR. Plain Language Summary Low‐lying coral reef islands are under threat of sea‐level rise (SLR). However, when these islands are flooded, ocean waves can bring in sediment that can increase the island elevation. This would enable coral reef islands to better withstand flooding in the future. Knowing how much sediment is brought in will help in our understanding of future changes to these islands due to SLR. In this paper, we use data from 28 Indo‐Pacific coral reef islands to compute sediment supply to the islands. We find that on average 0.1 m3 of sediment (roughly 100 kg) is delivered each year for every meter of island shoreline. We further suggest that this implies that only one quarter of the sediments produced by the coral reef system is delivered to the island shoreline. Most of the sediment produced remains on the reef flat or is exported to the ocean or the lagoon. Our results will help future studies to predict more accurately how coral reef islands will adjust to SLR. Key Points We provide the first estimates of carbonate sediment delivery rates to 28 coral reef islands using all data available from the literature Sediment delivery to the reef islands occurs at a rate of c. 0.1 m3 m−1 yr−1, but with substantial inter‐island variability Where island building has been continuous through island history, long‐term delivery rates provide valuable estimates for contemporary rates

Large uncertainty surrounds the future physical stability of low-lying coral reef islands due to a limited understanding of the geomorphic response of islands to changing environmental conditions. Physical and numerical modelling efforts have improved understanding of the modes and styles of island change in response to increasing wave and water level conditions. However, the impact of sediment supply on island morphodynamics has not been addressed and remains poorly understood. Here we present evidence from the first physical modelling experiments to explore the effect of storm-derived sediment supply on the geomorphic response of islands to changes in sea level and energetic wave conditions. Results demonstrate that a sediment supply has a substantial influence on island adjustments in response to sea-level rise, promoting the increase of the elevation of the island while dampening island migration and subaerial volume reduction. The implications of sediment supply are significant as it improves the potential of islands to offset the impacts of future flood events, increasing the future physical persistence of reef islands. Results emphasize the urgent need to incorporate the physical response of islands to both physical and ecological processes in future flood risk models.

Monitoring sandy shoreline evolution from years to decades is critical to understand the past and predict the future of our coasts. Optical satellite imagery can now infer such datasets globally, but sometimes with large uncertainties, poor spatial resolution, and thus debatable outcomes. Here we validate and analyse satellite-derived-shoreline positions (1984–2021) along the Atlantic coast of Europe using a moving-averaged approach based on coastline characteristics, indicating conservative uncertainties of long-term trends around 0.4 m/year and a potential bias towards accretion. We show that west-facing open coasts are more prone to long-term erosion, whereas relatively closed coasts favor accretion, although most of computed trends fall within the range of uncertainty. Interannual shoreline variability is influenced by regionally dominant atmospheric climate indices. Quasi-straight open coastlines typically show the strongest and more alongshore-uniform links, while embayed coastlines, especially those not exposed to the dominant wave climate, show weaker and more variable correlation with the indices. Our results provide a spatial continuum between previous local-scale studies, while emphasizing the necessity to further reduce satellite-derived shoreline trend uncertainties. They also call for applications based on a relevant averaging approach and the inclusion of coastal setting parameters to unravel the forcing-response spectrum of sandy shorelines globally.

Extreme storms cause extensive beach-dune erosion and are typically considered to enhance coastal erosion due to sea-level rise. However, extreme storms can also have a positive contribution to the nearshore sediment budget by exchanging sediment between the lower and upper shoreface and/or between adjacent headlands, potentially mitigating some adverse sea-level rise impacts. Here we use three high-resolution morphological datasets of extreme storm-recovery sequences from Australia, the UK and Mexico to quantify the nearshore sediment budget and relate these episodic volume changes to long-term coastal projections. We show that sediment gains over the upper shoreface were large (59–140 m 3 /m) and sufficient to theoretically offset decades of projected shoreline retreat due to sea-level rise, even for a high-end greenhouse gas emissions scenario (SSP5-8.5). We conclude that increased confidence in shoreline projections relies fundamentally on a robust quantitative understanding of the sediment budget, including any major short-term sediment contribution by extreme storms.

During the present era of rapid climate change and sea-level rise, coastal change science is needed at global, regional, and local scales. Essential elements of this science, regardless of scale, include that the methods are defendable and that the results are independently verifiable. The recent contribution by Almar et al.1 does not achieve either of thesemeasures as shown by: (i) the use of an error-prone proxy for coastal shoreline and (ii) analyses that are circular and explain little of the data variance.

Coastal managers worldwide must prepare for changes in annual wave overtopping events due to climate change and sea-level rise. Research often assesses overtopping discharges by extreme events at a sea wall crest, typically using data from physical models or empirical rules based on scaled experiments. Here, we analyse a unique 1-year field dataset of coastal wave overtopping, from SW England, to determine the number of individual waves, regardless of their size, overtopping two locations across a coastal structure. The coastal conditions causing the most frequent overtopping differ from those driving it landward, complicating hazard communications for multiuse infrastructure. These data are the first field observations covering a year of tide, wave and wind conditions that cause overtopping of a vertical sea wall. Storms have a minimal (<2%) contribution to the number of tides associated with overtopping and the prevailing wave direction was not that associated with most overtopping events. Overtopping histograms identify the variability in the most likely time of overtopping relative to high tide for different wave categories across the structure. Sea-level rise, beach lowering and climate change will influence the annual number of waves overtopping in future. Change will be a complex balance between overtopping by different wave categories due to their likelihood of coincidence with water levels that do not cause depth-limitation over the foreshore or (partial-)reflection off the structure. It is possible the number of waves overtopping will reduce at the crest of a sea wall, while more of those overtopping waves will travel further inland.

Low-lying atoll islands are among the world’s most vulnerable coastal environments to sea-level rise (SLR). Global application of coastal flooding models suggests that centennial flood events may become annual events by 2050 in tropical regions. This article addresses this claim by modelling an island flooding event that occurred in the Maldives on 1 July 2022 as a result of a distant-swell event coinciding with an extra high spring tide. Hydrodynamic data collected after the event on one of the affected islands were used to calibrate and validate a one-dimensional non-hydrostatic XBeach model. The model overpredicted wave setup and underpredicted the water motion at frequencies <0.05 Hz, but the wave run-up elevation was predicted reasonably well. The 1 July flood event was considered in a decadal context using modelled wave data and measured tide data. It was concluded that the 1 July event represents a c. 1:25-year flooding event, but, due to SLR, such flooding could occur every few years by 2050. This prediction ignores natural or anthropogenic adjustments to the island morphology. The expected increase in frequency of coastal flooding in the Maldives requires atoll and island authorities in the Maldives to act swiftly in adapting to future flood risk.

The authors wish to make the following erratum to this paper [...]