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result(s) for
"Sardar, Shaheen"
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Development of sustainable and cost efficient textile foam-finishing and its comparison with conventional padding
2020
Conventional padding is a non-sustainable textile processing technique, which consumes excessive water, chemicals and energy. To support the survival of the textile processing industry, researchers have identified the foam technology for application of dyes and finishes. Foam technology is more ecofriendly than the conventional padding. However, the successful foam generation for different finishes is a challenging task. In addition, it is more difficult and complicated task to effectively apply the foam on the fabrics and get the results which should be comparable with the conventional padding. This paper compares the pad-finishing with foam-finishing on the basis of sustainability, cost, productivity, and performance using 11 different non-toxic and sustainable finishes including cross-linkers, oil and water repellents, softeners, and fire retardant on the cotton fabric samples. Cost, productivity, performance and sustainability were estimated through the specific methods. The paper organizes the problem as analytic hierarchy process model and solves the model using super decisions software. The results reveal that the foam-finishing technique is more preferable in terms of cost, productivity and sustainability, if optimized properly. In addition, the successful foam-finishing recipes have been generated and the performance of foam-finishing has been comparable with pad-finishing. For instance, if all the criteria were given the same priority, the foam-finishing recipe with less quantity of chemical was 84.61% better than the pad-finishing. The optimized foam-finishing recipe was 84.55% better than the pad-finishing. In addition, the optimized foam-finishing recipe indicated better finishing performance in term of some important tests as compared to padding.
Journal Article
Novel, sustainable and water efficient nano bubble dyeing of cotton fabric
2020
Textile is one of the basic human needs and almost all the textile fabrics are colored. Unfortunately, the extensive amounts of clean water, petrochemical based dyes, and chemicals are used for textile dyeing. After dyeing, these substances are discharged as pollutants. The disposal of this discharge is a serious issue which pollutes the natural environment. Therefore, there is a dire need to develop the novel dyeing processes with extremely low consumptions of water, dyes and chemicals. Nevertheless, the technologies with the low liquor ratios bring several challenges such as uneven dyeing, poor fastness, limited colors, lack of skills, and complicated processes. To address such challenges, this research achieves the extremely low liquor ratio of 1:1 using nano bubble technology. For the first time, this research describes novel, sustainable, and water efficient nano bubble dyeing of cotton with 11 different reactive dyes. The fabric dyeing performance properties of shade depth, dry rubbing fastness, wet rubbing fastness, and washing fastness were assessed for the liquor ratio of 1:1. The performance of 1:1 dyeing was compared with the conventional dyeing having liquor ratios of 1:5 and 1:10 for the same dyes. All the 11 reactive dyes, dyed at liquor ratio of 1:1 exhibited the uniform dyeing, acceptable fastness properties, and superior air permeability along with zero liquid discharge in the main dyeing cycle. Therefore, this research confirms the effectiveness of the newly developed dyeing process at extremely low liquor ratio of 1:1 for reactive cotton dyeing with significant saving of water, energy, dyes, chemicals and effluent load.
Journal Article
A STEP TOO FAR? THE JOURNEY FROM \BIOLOGICAL\ TO \SOCIETAL\ FILIATION IN THE CHILD'S RIGHT TO NAME AND IDENTITY IN ISLAMIC AND INTERNATIONAL LAW
2019
This socio-legal narrative investigates the journey from \"biological\" to \"societal\" filiation undertaken by Islamic and international law regimes in their endeavors to ensure a child's right to name and identity. Combining a discussion of filiation—a status-assigning process—with adoption and kafāla (fostering) as status-transferring mechanisms, it highlights a nuanced hierarchy relating to these processes within Muslim communities and Muslim state practices. It questions whether evolving conceptions of a child's rights to name and identity represent a paradigm shift from \"no status\" if born out of wedlock toward \"full status\" offered through national and international law and Muslim state and community practices. The article challenges the dominant (formal, legal) position within the Islamic legal traditions that nasab (filiation) is obtainable through marriage alone. Highlighting inherent plurality within the Islamic legal traditions, it demonstrates how Muslim state practice and actual practices of Muslim communities on the subject are neither uniform nor necessarily in accordance with stated doctrinal positions of the juristic schools to which they subscribe. Simultaneously, the paper challenges some exaggerated gaps between \"Islamic\" and \"Western\" conceptions of children's rights, arguing that child-centric resources in Islamic law tend to be suppressed by a \"universalist\" Western human-rights discourse. Tracing common threads through discourses within both legal traditions aimed at ensuring children a name and identity, it demonstrates that the rights values in the United Nations Convention on Rights of the Child resonate with preexisting values within the Islamic legal traditions.
Journal Article
Performance Enhancement of Novel and Sustainable Foam Dyeing of Polyester Fabrics Using Disperse Dyes
by
Malik, Mumtaz Hussan
,
Khan, Aamer
,
Afraz, Nadeem
in
Chemicals
,
Chemistry
,
Chemistry and Materials Science
2024
In the continuous textile processing, conventional padding is the most commonly used technique for fabric dyeing. Pad dyeing consumes the substantial water, energy, and harmful chemicals. Recently, foam dyeing has been reported as a sustainable alternative to the pad dyeing for cotton fabric. However, there is a lack of research on the foam dyeing of polyester fabrics. Foam dyeing of polyester fabrics would face various challenges such as dye-uptake resistance due to its hydrophobic properties, foam optimization difficulties, and desired performance achievement. For the first time, this paper evaluates the foam dyeing of the polyester fabrics using three disperse dyes. This paper performs foam dyeing of polyester fabric using three disperse dyes, two foaming agents, and two stabilizers. The foam recipes were optimized for each color, each foaming agent, and each stabilizer. The optimized foam recipes were applied on the polyester fabric samples using a foam coating machine. Performance of the resultant foam-dyed fabric was compared with the fabric dyed with conventional pad-dry-cure method. Testing of the dyed fabric parameters included shade depth, color fastness, tearing strength, and air permeability. Results exhibited the successful application of foaming recipes and competitive performance. Subsequently, foam dyeing of polyester fabrics offers substantial cost savings, water saving, and energy saving.
Journal Article
Analysis of Product Complexity considering Disruption Cost in Fast Fashion Supply Chain
by
Sardar, Shaheen
,
Lee, Young Hae
in
Category management
,
Clothing industry
,
Competitive advantage
2015
Outsourcing in the textile industry has been playing an important role in the global economy for six decades. Recently, reshoring is an emerging trend due to various complexities involved in supply chain management. As compared with basic textile and apparel products, fast fashion products are complex in their own way. A single assortment contains several new styles, colors, and sizes with unpredictable demand and urgent deadlines. Numerous assortments run simultaneously in the supply chain. For each assortment, the garment manufacturer has to source various types of fabrics and materials from different suppliers and then manufacture the garments to ship within the deadlines. This complexity contributes to supply chain disruption. This paper develops a model to estimate supply chain disruption cost as a function of fast fashion product complexity in the global outsourcing environment. Estimation of disruption cost will help us to increase visibility and eliminate the bottlenecks in supply chain. Model conclusions are used to develop a method to manage the level of product complexity from the global supply chain perspective. Several strategies are proposed to manage the impact of product complexity on supply chain design.
Journal Article
Multi-criteria decision analysis for textile pad-dyeing and foam-dyeing based on cost, performance, productivity and sustainability
by
Sardar, Shaheen
,
Mohsin, Muhammad
in
Analytic hierarchy process
,
Bioorganic Chemistry
,
cellulose
2019
In the textile wet processing, pad-dyeing is a conventional and most commonly used technique for continuous processing. This technique consumes considerable amounts of water, chemical and energy. Therefore, scientists have developed the foam technique which is more sustainable than the conventional pad-dyeing. However, in order to implement the foam-dyeing in the textile industry, the key challenges include the preparation of suitable foam for range of dyes, its application, and obtaining the results that must be comparable to the conventional pad-dyeing. To address these issues, this research compares the conventional pad-dyeing and foam-dyeing concerning cost, performance, productivity, and environmental sustainability using three primary colors for direct and reactive dyes on the cotton fabrics. First part of the research includes the practical trials for the successful generation, stabilization and application of foam onto the cotton fabric for all the three primary colors of reactive and direct dyes. While in the second part, Analytic Hierarchy Process technique is used to present and analyze the problem. The results exhibited that the foam-dyeing is superior than pad-dyeing in terms of cost, productivity, and sustainability. The performance can be further improved by optimizing the foam-dyeing recipes. Multi-criteria decision analysis provides an organized and comprehensive way to evaluate the alternative recipes for dyeing.
Journal Article
Legacies of common law: 'crimes of honour' in India and Pakistan
2006
Through a comparative analysis of crimes of 'honour' in India and Pakistan and an examination of appellate judgments from the two countries, we reflect upon how a rights-based discourse of modern nation-states forms a complex terrain where citizenship of the state and membership of communities are negotiated and contested through the unfolding of complex legal rituals in both sites. We identify two axes to explore the complex nature of the interaction between modernity and tradition. The first is that of governance of polities (state statutory governance bodies) and the second is the governance of communities (caste panchayats and jirgahs). We conclude that the diverse legacies of common law in India and Pakistan frame an anxious relationship with the categories of tradition and modernity, which inhabit spaces in between the governance of polities and the governance of communities, and constantly reconstitute the relationship between the local, national and the global.
Journal Article
Development of novel and sustainable ozone based dyeing processes for cotton fabric
2024
Textile industry uses large quantities of different dyes to fulfill the rapidly growing demand for the dyed textile products, resulting in more dye consumption, greater dye discharge as textile dyeing effluent, and higher cost. To decrease the dyes consumption, this research evaluates the performance of novel ozone-based dyeing processes for cotton fabric. So far, reported ozone-based processes for textile involve the usage of high ozone intensity for removing impurities, discoloration of solution, color fading in denim and other fabrics. This research is a first effort, which concentrates on the performance enhancement of the exhaust dyeing process for cotton fabrics through the application of controlled and lower amount of ozone. In this research, ozone dosage is controlled through ozone generator knob to only 0.5 g/h (10%), 1 g/h (20%), 1.5 g/h (30%), 2 g/h (40%), and 2.5 g/h (50%). In contrast, ozone dosage reaches up to 60 g/h in cotton bleaching. This research evaluates the four ozone-based dyeing processes for cotton fabrics using two primary reactive dyes and two primary direct dyes under different concentrations of ozone. Effect of ozonation was evaluated for both direct and reactive dyes at four stages, namely during dyeing, dry ozonation before dyeing, pre-wet ozonation before dyeing, and ozonation after dyeing. Results showed that K/S value of the optimized ozone-based processes was better than the conventional exhaust process. For instance, K/S value for benchmarked conventional dyed sample was 2.147 for reactive yellow, and it was 3.271 (33.5% higher) for the “ozonation after dyeing” process. Similar trends were observed for many other trials, resulting in higher K/S value. In addition, the fastness properties of the optimized processes were comparable with the conventional exhaust process. FTIR and SEM analysis were also performed on selective ozone dyed fabrics.
Journal Article
Resurrecting \Siyar\ through \Fatwas\? (Re) Constructing 'Islamic International Law' in a Post–(Iraq) Invasion World
2009
This article seeks to explore the impact of the Iraq war on Siyar or 'Islamic international law' from a range of Muslim perspectives by raising some critical questions and addressing these through the lens of a selection of Fatwas solicited by Muslims from a range of countries and continents, on the Iraq war and its implications for popular understandings of Siyar and Jihad. This article suggests that the Iraq war presents an opportunity to revisit and potentially revive historical Siyar pronouncements of a dichotomous world, i.e. dar-al-harb and dar-al-Islam. I argue that in so doing, this discourse has invigorated the notions of a universal Ummah within the normative framework of Siyar hitherto marginalized by ascendancy of the nation state, international organizations and contemporary Muslim state practice. Finally, I argue that a wider Internet access to Muslim communities in the global South has facilitated a modified institution of ifta to reflect popular understandings of Siyar and Jihad and influence its reformulation in the backdrop of the Iraq war.
Journal Article
THE CONCEPT OF \JIHAD\ IN ISLAMIC INTERNATIONAL LAW
2005
In the post 11 September 2001 legal and political environment, Islam appears to have become one of the most misunderstood religions. Islam has been equated with fanaticism, intolerance, violence and wars of aggression - the classical Jihad ideology is often deployed to cast doubts on the compatibility of Islam with modern norms of international law as enunciated in the United Nations Charter. Much confusion stems from the fact that Islamic international law and Islamic laws of armed conflict have not received due attention in western legal scholarship. The concept of Jihad has arguably been central to many modern conflicts including that of resistance to US occupation of Iraq (2003–2005), the struggle for self-determination in Kashmir (1947–2005) and the Palestinian struggle for reclaiming their land from Israel (1948–2005). This article seeks to provide a jurisprudential analysis of the concept of Jihad. Amidst controversies surrounding Jihad, the authors attempt to contextualise the concept and relate the discussion to contemporary norms of International law as established by the United Nations Charter. The authors identify the conditions under which Jihad is permissible in Islamic law in the light of its various sources. The distinction between dar-al-harb (abode of war) and dar-al-Islam (abode of Islam) is presented as this issue impacts on laws of war in Islam. The significance of humanitarian principles within Islamic international law as well as in Islamic humanitarian law is highlighted.
Journal Article