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"Bergsteigen."
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Mountains : mapping the earth's extremes
This thrilling combination of science, history, geography and adventure brings together more than 170 breathtaking virtual images of mountains, created using modern satellite technology with unprecedented precision and detail, allowing viewpoints that have never before been possible; the history of mountaineering, retold by world-class adventurer Reinhold Messner; first-hand accounts of expeditions by great climbers: Sandy Allan, Hansjörg Auer, Hervé Barmasse, Yannick Graziani, Tomaz̆ Humar, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Pierre Mazeaud, Robert Paragot, John Roskelley, Adolf Schulze, Stephen Venables, and Barbara Washburn.
Book
Estimation of hand and wrist muscle capacities in rock climbers
Purpose
This study investigated the hand and wrist muscle capacities among expert rock climbers and compared them with those of non-climbers. The objective was to identify the adaptations resulting from several years of climbing practice.
Methods
Twelve climbers (nine males and three females) and 13 non-climber males participated in this study. Each subject performed a set of maximal voluntary contractions about the wrist and the metacarpo-phalengeal joints during which net joint moments and electromyographic activities were recorded. From this data set, the muscle capacities of the five main muscle groups of the hand (wrist flexors, wrist extensors, finger flexors, finger extensors and intrinsic muscles) were estimated using a biomechanical model. This process consisted in adjusting the physiological cross-sectional area (PCSA) and the maximal muscle stress value from an initial generic model.
Results
Results obtained from the model provided several new pieces of information compared to the analysis of only the net joint moments. Particularly, the capacities of the climbers were 37.1 % higher for finger flexors compared to non-climbers and were similar for finger extensor and for the other muscle groups. Climbers thus presented a greater imbalance between flexor and extensor capacities which suggests a potential risk of pathologies.
Conclusions
The practice of climbing not only increased the strength of climbers but also resulted in specific adaptations among hand muscles. The proposed method and the obtained data could be re-used to optimize the training programs as well as the rehabilitation processes following hand pathologies.
Journal Article
Mountaineering : essential skills for hikers and climbers
Perfect for the complete beginner or the seasoned mountaineer, Mountaineering is a comprehensive guide for anyone who aspires to climb the world's hills and mountains. Its pages are packed full of information, including: Hiking and trekking basics from packing your backpack to map and compass reading tips ; Rock climbing from choosing the correct gear including harnesses, ropes, and the necessary tools to how to safely climb ; Winter mountaineering from predicting the weather to packing the correct clothing to the precautions necessary to stay safe ; Alpinism from hut and climbing etiquette to climbing alpine routes quickly ; Ski mountaineering and snowshoeing from choosing the right type of equipment to finding the best snow for your gear ; Expeditions from raising funds to planning your trip including the necessary gear and food to getting the necessary vaccines and visas. -- from the publisher.
BOOK
Cognitive performance in high-altitude climbers: a comparative study of saccadic eye movements and neuropsychological tests
Impairment of cognitive performance during and after high-altitude climbing has been described in numerous studies and has mostly been attributed to cerebral hypoxia and resulting functional and structural cerebral alterations. To investigate the hypothesis that high-altitude climbing leads to cognitive impairment, we used of neuropsychological tests and measurements of eye movement (EM) performance during different stimulus conditions. The study was conducted in 32 mountaineers participating in an expedition to Muztagh Ata (7,546 m). Neuropsychological tests comprised figural fluency, line bisection, letter and number cancellation, and a modified pegboard task. Saccadic performance was evaluated under three stimulus conditions with varying degrees of cortical involvement: visually guided pro- and anti-saccades, and visuo-visual interaction. Typical saccade parameters (latency, mean sequence, post-saccadic stability, and error rate) were computed off-line. Measurements were taken at a baseline level of 440 m and at altitudes of 4,497, 5,533, 6,265, and again at 440 m. All subjects reached 5,533 m, and 28 reached 6,265 m. The neuropsychological test results did not reveal any cognitive impairment. Complete eye movement recordings for all stimulus conditions were obtained in 24 subjects at baseline and at least two altitudes and in 10 subjects at baseline and all altitudes. Measurements of saccade performances showed no dependence on any altitude-related parameter and were well within normal limits. Our data indicates that acclimatized climbers do not seem to suffer from significant cognitive deficits during or after climbs to altitudes above 7,500 m. We demonstrated that investigation of EMs is feasible during high-altitude expeditions.
Journal Article
Der Mönch und seine Berge
Pater Placidus Spescha war Mönch, Volkskundler, Naturforscher und Bergführer. Im ausgehenden 18. Jahrhundert, als Ausflüge ins Hochgebirge grundsätzlich noch alleine der Forschung dienten, betrieb er das Bergsteigen bereits als lustvollen Zeitvertreib. Damit stellt er die etablierte Interpretation in Frage, nach der das Bergsteigen erst im 'Goldenen Zeitalter des Alpinismus' in der Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts als Sport entdeckt wurde. Der Autor vergleicht drei Generationen von Bergsteigern: ihr Alpenbild, ihre Selbstwahrnehmung, ihre Motivation und ihr alpinistisches Können – und erläutert, warum Placidus Spescha wohl der erste wahre Alpinist war.
eBook
Everest and Conquest in the Himalaya
A history of those who have scaled Mount Everest--and the advances in mountaineering over a century. At one time, the summits of the world's highest peaks--Everest included--were beyond reach.Pioneering attempts to overcome the dangers of climbing at extremely high altitudes ended in failure, sometimes with disastrous consequences.
eBook
Far out : countercultural seekers and the tourist encounter in Nepal
Westerners have long imagined the Himalayas as the world's last untouched place and a repository of redemptive power and wisdom. Beatniks, hippie seekers, spiritual tourists, mountain climbers—diverse groups of people have traveled there over the years, searching for their own personal Shangri-La. In Far Out, Mark Liechty traces the Western fantasies that captured the imagination of tourists in the decades after World War II, asking how the idea of Nepal shaped the everyday cross-cultural interactions that it made possible.
Emerging from centuries of political isolation but eager to engage the world, Nepalis struggled to make sense of the hordes of exotic, enthusiastic foreigners. They quickly embraced the phenomenon, however, and harnessed it to their own ends by building tourists' fantasies into their national image and crafting Nepal as a premier tourist destination. Liechty describes three distinct phases: the postwar era, when the country provided a Raj-like throwback experience for rich Americans; Nepal's emergence as an exotic outpost of hippie counterculture in the 1960s; and its rebranding into a hip adventure destination, which began in the 1970s and continues today. He shows how Western projections of Nepal as an isolated place inspired creative enterprises and, paradoxically, allowed locals to participate in the global economy. Based on twenty-five years of research, Far Out blends ethnographic analysis, a lifelong passion for Nepal, and a touch of humor to produce the first comprehensive history of what tourists looked for—and found—on the road to Kathmandu.
eBook
Aconcagua
Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas and the tallest mountain in the world outside of the Himalayas. Located in the Andes Mountains of Argentina, near the city of Mendoza, Aconcagua has been luring European mountain climbers since 1883, when a German ge-ologist nearly reached the mountain's summit. (A Swiss climber finally made the ascent in 1897.) In this fascinating book, Joy Logan explores the many impacts of mountaineering's \"discovery\" of Aconcagua including its effect on how local indigenous history is understood. The consequences still resonate today, as the region has become a magnet for \"adventure travelers,\" with about 7,000 climbers and trekkers from all over the world visiting each year.Having done fieldwork on Aconcagua for six years, Logan offers keen insights into how the invention of mountaineering in the nineteenth century-and adventure tourism a century later-have both shaped and been shaped by local and global cultural narratives. She examines the roles and functions of mountain guides, especially in regard to notions of gender and nation; re-reads the mountaineering stories forged by explorers, scientists, tourism officials, and the gear industry; and considers the distinctions between foreign and Argentine climbers (some of whom are celebrities in their own right).In Logan's revealing analysis,Aconcaguais emblematic of the tensions produced by modernity, nation-building, tourism development, and re-ethnification. The evolution of mountain climbing on Aconcagua registers seismic shifts in attitudes toward adventure, the national, and the global. With an eye for detail and a flair for description, Logan invites her readers onto the mountain and into the lives it supports.
eBook
Conrad Kain : letters from a wandering mountain guide, 1906-1933
Conrad Kain is a titan amongst climbers in Canada and is well-known in mountaineering circles all over the world. His letters to Amelie Malek-a life-long friend-offer a candid view into the deepest thoughts of the Austrian mountain guide, and are a perfect complement to his autobiography, Where the Clouds Can Go. The 144 letters provide a unique and personal view of what it meant to immigrate to Canada in the early part of the twentieth century. Kain's letters are ordered chronologically with annotations, keeping the sections in English untouched, while those in German have been carefully translated. Historians and mountain culture enthusiasts worldwide will appreciate Kain's genius for description, his passion for nature, his opinions, and his musings about his life.
eBook
The Problems of the Defining the Risk: The Case of Mountaineering
A central assumption in sociology is that the view on the risk is essentially a construction rather than a strictly objective perspective. However, this approach has a tendency to forget objective knowledge and tangible facts. Our research on risks in high mountains compares the available information on risks (scientific literature, safety information, media coverage and political discourse) with our empiric observations. Our work shows that there are differences caused by lack of fundamental reflection on the definition of the risk as a social construction. We propose to reconsider the definition of the risk with concepts closely connected to risk such as: uncertainty, emotion, phobia and danger, and to point out problems of confusion in several works of authors (e.g. those dealing with sensational activity, such as bungee jumping, as if it was dangerous). URN: urn:nbn:de:0114-fqs0601148
Journal Article