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This book advises the reader from an analytical chemistry perspective on the choice of suitable analytical methods for production monitoring and quality control of cosmetic products. This book will enable people working in the cosmetic industry or in research laboratories to become familiar with the main legislative and analytical literature on this subject and learn about and choose suitable analytical procedures for production monitoring and control of cosmetic products, according to their composition. The first section of the book covers various definitions and concepts relating to cosmetic products, current legislation in different countries and specific legislation on ingredients. The central body of the book addresses analytical methods for monitoring and quality control of cosmetic products with the fundamental objective being to enable reader's access to scientific reviews carried out by experts in analytical chemistry. The final section contains a small review of the alternative methods to using animals for cosmetic product evaluation. This book will benefit scientists, technologists, students, practitioners, consultants, etc.

Spermidine is an essential biomarker related to antiaging. Although the detection of spermidine levels is in high demand in life science fields, easy‐to‐use analytical tools without sample purification have not yet been fully established. Herein, we propose an organic field‐effect transistor‐based chemical sensor for quantifying the spermidine concentration in commercial cosmetics. An extended‐gate structure was employed for organic field‐effect transistor (OFET)‐based chemical sensing in aqueous media. A coordination‐bond‐based sensing system was introduced into the OFET device to visualize the spermidine detection information through changes in the transistor characteristics. The extended‐gate‐type OFET has shown quantitative responses to spermidine, which indicates sufficient detectability (i. e., the limit of detection for spermidine: 2.3 μM) considering actual concentrations in cosmetics. The applicability of the OFET‐based chemical sensor for cosmetic analysis was validated by instrumental analysis using high‐performance liquid chromatography. The estimated recovery rates for spermidine in cosmetic ingredient products (108–111 %) suggest the feasibility of cosmetic analysis based on the OFET‐based chemical sensor. An extended‐gate‐type organic transistor can be used to quantify spermidine levels in cosmetic ingredient products without complicated sample purification. The accurate detection results, validated by HPLC, indicate the potential of organic transistors as platforms for cosmetic analysis.

The production of drugs, cosmetics, and food which are derived from plant cell and tissue cultures has a long tradition. The emerging trend of manufacturing cosmetics and food products in a natural and sustainable manner has brought a new wave in plant cell culture technology over the past 10 years. More than 50 products based on extracts from plant cell cultures have made their way into the cosmetics industry during this time, whereby the majority is produced with plant cell suspension cultures. In addition, the first plant cell culture-based food supplement ingredients, such as Echigena Plus and Teoside 10, are now produced at production scale. In this mini review, we discuss the reasons for and the characteristics as well as the challenges of plant cell culture-based productions for the cosmetics and food industries. It focuses on the current state of the art in this field. In addition, two examples of the latest developments in plant cell culture-based food production are presented, that is, superfood which boosts health and food that can be produced in the lab or at home.

Among the various compounds regarded as emerging contaminants (ECs), pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are of particular concern. Their continuous release into the environment has a negative global impact on human life. This review summarizes the sources, occurrence, persistence, consequences of exposure, and toxicity of PPCPs, and evaluates the various analytical methods used in the identification and quantification of PPCPs in a variety of solid and liquid environmental matrices. The current techniques of choice for the analysis of PPCPs are state-of-the-art liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS) or tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS2). However, the complexity of the environmental matrices and the trace levels of micropollutants necessitate the use of advanced sample treatments before these instrumental analyses. Solid-phase extraction (SPE) with different sorbents is now the predominant method used for the extraction of PPCPs from environmental samples. This review also addresses the ongoing analytical method challenges, including sample clean-up and matrix effects, focusing on the occurrence, sample preparation, and analytical methods presently available for the determination of environmental residues of PPCPs. Continuous development of innovative analytical methods is essential for overcoming existing limitations and ensuring the consistency and diversity of analytical methods used in investigations of environmental multi-class compounds.

The bioaccumulation of a broad range of pharmaceuticals and personal care product chemicals (PPCPs) was studied in Cootes Paradise Marsh (CPM), an urban wetland that receives tertiary treated municipal waste waters as well as urban storm runoff. We measured PPCPs in caged and wild goldfish, as well as wild carp, and compared observed bioaccumulation factors (BAF P ) using concentrations in surface waters and fish blood plasma, with modeled BAFs. Thirty-two PPCPs were detected in water from the central CPM site (CPM3) while 64 PPCPs were found at higher concentrations at a site immediately downstream of the effluent outflow (CPM1). Following a 3-week deployment, 15 PPCPs were detected in the plasma of caged goldfish at CPM1, and 14 at CPM3, compared to only 3 in goldfish caged at a reference site. The highest BAF P in goldfish were for the antidepressant Σfluoxetine averaging 386 L/kg in caged and 906 L/kg in wild goldfish, respectively. In carp, ΣDiazepam (diazepam and oxazepam) had the highest BAF P (927 L/kg). This study identified a broader range of PPCPs in fish and surface waters than previously reported. However, modeled BAFs did not show good agreement with observed whole body or plasma BAFs, demonstrating that more work is needed to better explain bioaccumulation of PPCPs.

PPCPs are found almost everywhere in the environment especially at an alarming rate and at very low concentration in the aquatic systems. Many methods—including pressurized hot water extraction (PHWE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), and micro-assisted extraction (MAE)—have been employed for their extraction from both surface waters and biota. Solid-phase extraction (SPE) proved to be the best extraction method for these polar, non-volatile, and thermally unstable compounds in water. However, ultrasonic extraction works better for their isolation from sediment because it is cheap and consumes less solvent, even though SPE is preferred as a clean-up method for sediment samples. PPCPs are in groups of—acidic (e.g., diclofenac, ibuprofen, naproxen), neutral (e.g., caffeine, carbamazepine, fluoxetine), and basic pharmaceuticals, as well as antibiotics and estrogens amongst others. PPCPs which are present in trace levels (ng/L) are more often determined by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and high-performance liquid chromatography-ultraviolent (HPLC-UV). Of these, LC-MS and LC-MS-MS are mostly employed for the analysis of this class of compounds, though not without a draw-back of matrix effect. GC-MS and GC-MS-MS are considered as alternative cost-effective methods that can also give better results after derivatization.

Cosmetics can contain harmful compounds such as heavy metals. Several metals have a cumulative effect on the body, especially fatty tissues, and may have different health effects on the human body over the long term. Therefore, the main objective of this study was to assess the health risks of heavy metals in cosmetics in Iran. Also, in this study, Monte Carlo simulation was used to investigate uncertainties. In this study, heavy metals data of cosmetics were extracted from studies carried out at intervals 2010–2018. International and Iranian databases such as Google Scholar, Web of Science, Springer, Science Direct, PubMed, Scopus, Irandoc, Magiran, Scientific Information Database (SID), and Information Institute for Scientific (ISC) were searched for this purpose. In this study, the index of the Margin of Safety was calculated to determine the risk of human contact with metallic impurities in cosmetic products used by humans. In the selected period, 11 studies were conducted on the measurement of heavy metals in cosmetics in Iran. In these studies, cosmetics such as eye shadow, eye pencil, powder, cream, and lipstick were studied. The Margin of Safety (MoS) values calculated for different metals were higher than the established safe standard by WHO. The highest and lowest amount of systemic exposure dosage in all types of cosmetic investigated (lipstick, cream, eye pencil, face powder, and eye shadow) was related to Fe and Hg. The mean hazardous quotient (HQ) for Cd, Cr, Ni, Cu, Mn, Zn, Pb, and Hg was 1.05E-03, 1.03E-01, 7.95E-03, 2.59E-03, 1.05E-03, 4.98E-03, 7.22E-04, 1.85E-01, and 1.35E-05, respectively. The highest HQ (6.10E-01) was found for Pb, which was observed in the cream.

Almond is characterized by its high nutritional value; although information reported so far mainly concerns edible kernel. Even though the nutritional and commercial relevance of the almond is restricted to almond meat; to date; increasing attention has been paid to other parts of this fruit (skin; shell; and hull); considered by-products that are scarcely characterized and exploited regarding their properties as valuable sources of bioactive compounds (mainly represented by phenolic acids and flavonoids). This lack of proper valorization procedures entails the continuation of the application of traditional procedures to almond residues that nowadays are mainly addressed to livestock feed and energy production. In this sense; data available on the physicochemical and phytochemical composition of almond meat and its related residues suggest promising applications; and allow one to envisage new uses as functional ingredients towards value-added foods and feeds; as well as a source of bioactive phytochemicals to be included in cosmetic formulations. This objective has prompted investigators working in the field to evaluate their functional properties and biological activity. This approach has provided interesting information concerning the capacity of polyphenolic extracts of almond by-products to prevent degenerative diseases linked to oxidative stress and inflammation in human tissues and cells; in the frame of diverse pathophysiological situations. Hence; this review deals with gathering data available in the scientific literature on the phytochemical composition and bioactivity of almond by-products as well as on their bioactivity so as to promote their functional application.

The growing concern about the environmental impact and human health risk related to the excessive use of synthetic ingredients in cosmetics and topical formulations calls for the exploration of safe and sustainable natural alternatives. Lignin-rich lignocellulosic industrial wastes such as hazelnut and walnut shells were used as a lignin polymer source. Agro-derived lignins were evaluated as a potential natural active ingredient for health care products. Aside from the structural characteristics of isolated lignins, which were identified by GPC, Py-GC–MS, and 2D HSQC NMR techniques, functional properties such as antioxidant power and UV absorption ability were investigated. The SPF values found for creams containing 5% of hazelnut and walnut lignin content were 6.9 and 4.5, respectively. Additionally, both lignin types presented appropriate protection against UVA radiation, highly interesting property to block the full ultraviolet spectrum. The biological activity of isolated lignins assessed at different concentrations (0.01–1 mg/mL) and different times (24, 48, and 72 h) on murine fibroblast cell line 3T3 suggested their suitability for cosmetic applications.

The paper presents the possibilities of using the ToF-SIMS technique in the examination of a range of samples as forensic evidence. These include the analysis of documents, the examination of writing media, the analysis of crossing lines, the analysis of cosmetics, hair analysis, the examination of automobile paints, and the analysis of fingerprints and their contamination with exogenous substances. The advantages and disadvantages of this method were analysed with reference to the information that any forensic investigator would wish to obtain when examining highly significant evidence. •ToF-SIMS provides an important imaging capability for forensic science.•The ability to analyse a wide range of forensic trace types.•The non-destructive technique with high sensitivity and resolution.•The technique with new applications, including the analysis of evidences.