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"Dress forms"
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Draping Period Costumes: Classical Greek to Victorian
One way of creating a theatrical costume is called flat patterning. This is when a costume designer uses a pattern made to the wearer's measurements to cut out and sew together a costume. In many cases flat patterning is the more appropriate method for creating a period costume - skirts, pants, and sleeves, for example. However, working in two-dimensions often does not translate correctly onto a three-dimensional dress form or person. Often a designer will need to tweak style lines on a garment once they see it worn, or a costume will need a quick adjustment right before going on stage. In those cases, designers need to know how to correctly drape a costume. Draping is also the best way to construct a period costume right from the start. The construction of garments in earlier centuries often constricted movement, especially in the area of the armhole. The very different size and proportions of contemporary people compared to those in previous centuries makes the use of period patterns difficult. A well-draped garment can give the impression of period accuracy while permitting the wearer greater freedom of movement. Having a mock-up pinned to the form in its early stages is quicker and easier to adapt than drafting a flat pattern, cutting it out of muslin and sewing it. It also provides the opportunity for greater creativity and adaptation as well as a better understanding of what fabric will and won't do.
In Draping Period Costumes, Sharon Sobel explains in step-by-step detail the basics of draping and demonstrates the use of those basic skills in the creation of a representative selection of period costumes from a variety of time periods. Chapters are broken into time periods and have two parts: an analysis of how clothing was made and worn during that specific time period, and detailed instruction on draping techniques to construct the costume. Copiously illustrated, images allow this visual audience to easily follow along with detailed instruc
eBook
Evaluating machine learning models for clothing size prediction using anthropometric measurements from 3D body scanning
An analysis of a dataset comprising 677 participants revealed substantial discrepancies in size categorization. Only 63 individuals (9.15%) maintained consistency across bust, waist, and hip measurements, whereas 614 participants (90.84%) exhibited size variations, and 35.45% were not adequately accommodated by the existing sizing scheme. These findings highlight significant challenges in garment selection, potentially leading to dissatisfaction and increased return rates. This study evaluated the effectiveness of support vector machine (SVM) and principal component analysis-SVM (PCA-SVM) models for clothing size prediction via 3D body scanning data. The traditional SVM model, which focuses on primary measurements, achieves an accuracy of 89.66%, outperforming the PCA-SVM model (68.97%), which incorporates additional dimensions. These results underscore the effectiveness of SVMs in predicting clothing size categories and emphasise the intricate relationship between body morphology and garment fit.
Journal Article
Draping as a technique to develop creative skills in Saudi Arabian fashion design Drapeado como una técnica para desarrollar habilidades creativas en el diseño de moda en Arabia Saudita
This study aims at studying the effect of fashion design’s draping method on a dress form in developing creative skills(Originality, Fluency, Flexibility, The details).This study followed an experimental approach and used a variety of methods and tools to collect the scientific material of the study, The following tools were included: Pre- and post- skills tests, assessment scale to evaluate the designs and observation. The sample size of the study was 75 female students in the experimental group and 30 female students in the control group among the female students of the College of Arts and Design at PNU .The total number of designs was 150 design for the experimental group and 60 for the control group. It was presented and arbitrated by six arbitrators. The total number of questionnaires before and after the applied program was 900 questionnaires for the experimental group and the control group was 360, and they were analyzed statistically. The study arrived at the following results: the design of a series of innovative outfits using the draping method on a dress form. also confirmed that technical performance in dress form draping improves the designers’ creative skills development, which then helps them to implement innovative designs.
Journal Article
The development of dress forms in standing and sitting postures using 3D body scanning and printing
3D body scanning and printing are attracting attention as innovative technologies for producing dress forms. While designing dress forms, the shape of the human body must be accurately reflected in the different postures. This study explored the development of dress forms as a tool to understand changes in body size and shape according to postures and reflect this information to design and fit evaluation in the apparel industry. The holistic development process of dress forms in standing and sitting postures was suggested for representing the body shape of a specific target group. The average shape of middle-aged Korean women was derived by analyzing the 6th Size Korea data. A representative participant whose dimensions were closest to the average size was selected among recruited participants for the dress form development. The body data were acquired with a portable 3D scanner and corresponding dress forms and accessories were modeled using 3D CAD software. The models were inspected and corrected through prototyping. Full-size dress forms in standing and sitting postures were printed using a fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printer and post-processed. Completed dress forms were body-scanned and their accuracy was evaluated through morphological similarity comparison, cross-sectional image comparison, surface area and volume comparison, and mesh deviation analysis. Although there were some minor differences caused by the modeling process, the developed dress forms reflected the main characteristics and shapes of the representative body satisfactorily.
Journal Article
Parametric modeling of historical mannequins
Purpose
Digital technologies are widely used for digitization of museum and archival heritage and creation of digital, multimedia and online exhibitions, especially in terms of costume history. Digital exhibitions require historical dress forms which were used in the past for costume presentation. The purpose of this paper is to develop a new method for parametric modeling of the nineteenth century dress forms in accordance with fashionable body shape.
Design/methodology/approach
Due to limited number of body measurements in historical sizing tables, it is impossible to redesign the morphology of old fashionable body with high accuracy by means of contemporary CAD. The developed method is based on two sources of information: first, historical sizing tables with body measurements; second, historical corsets. By combining both resources and applying virtual try-on technology, the full anthropometric database about the nineteenth century fashionable body shape has been organized and the parametric model of historical dress form has been generated.
Findings
The digital replica of deformable parametric dress form was created automatically in accordance with the historical sizing systems and the corsets construction. The process of reproduction of a historical dress form has been done with high accuracy due to substantial advantages of contemporary software.
Originality/value
This study shows new way of anthropometric data generating from the construction of close-fitting and compression undergarments. The developed method and the new database can be applied for each type of dress forms which were used in the second part of the nineteenth century to generate its digital replica in virtual reality. The new approach is joining the digital technologies and the professional knowledge as an important part of cultural heritage for studying, recreating and presenting historical costume.
Journal Article
Adaptivity of pattern making methods to garments for varying body dimensions
Purpose
To suggest a garment for a wider market, the purpose of this paper is to assess the appearance of garments manufactured by a combination of four methods of flat pattern making and four dress forms from different countries. The paper also compares Japanese and British women’s evaluations of these garments’ appearances.
Design/methodology/approach
The authors made 16 garments by combining 4 pattern making methods with measurements from 4 dress forms and evaluated their appearance. The four dress forms were from Japan (Kiiya, called “Kii”), France (Siegel & Stockman, called “St”), the UK (Kennett & Lindsell, called “KL”) and the USA (Wolf Form, called “Wo”), and the four pattern making methods were from Japan (Bunka), Italy (Secoli), France (ESMOD) and the USA (Fashion Institute of Technology, called “FIT”). The authors captured 64 sets of pictures of the 16 garments with the 4 dress forms from the front and the side. The authors then showed images of the four garments made using the same pattern making method with measurements from the four dress forms to subjects for assessment. The subjects – 15 Japanese and 11 British women in their 20s – ranked the pictures in descending order of appearance.
Findings
Subjects from both countries rated garments manufactured using the Bunka and Secoli pattern making methods with the Kii and KL dress forms, and those made using ESMOD and FIT with St and Wo as the highest, even though the dress forms used for pattern making and those for wearing were not coincident. On the contrary, many garments made using Bunka and Secoli with St and Wo, and those made using ESMOD and FIT with Kii and KL were rated lowest in terms of appearance, even though the target dress form and wearing dress form were coincident. Therefore, there are appropriate body measurements for each pattern making method that can render the relevant garment more attractive, likely because these measurements are derived from assumed body proportions in the pattern making method of each country.
Originality/value
Although the evaluation of the appearance of garments is an important factor in garment manufacture, scant research has addressed this issue. Moreover, the comparison between Japanese and British women provided here will help manufacturers make garments that are more attractive to people in both countries.
Journal Article
Modeling of half-scale human bodies in active body positions for apparel design and testing
Purpose
The design and testing of clothing for activewear requires complex assessments of the suitability of the clothing when the body is in motion. The purpose of this paper is to investigate full body 3D scanning of active body poses in order to develop “watertight” digital models and half-scale dress forms to facilitate design, pattern making and fit analyses. Issues around creating a size set of scans in order to facilitate fit testing of activewear across a size range were also explored.
Design/methodology/approach
Researchers experimented to discover effective methods for 3D body capture in the cycling position and reconstruction of the body in a reliable way. In total, 25 cyclists were scanned and size representatives were selected from these participants. Methods of creating half-scale forms were developed that make optimum use of modern materials and technologies. Half-scale dress forms were created in two active positions in a range of sizes for fit testing and design. A set of half-scale and full-scale bike shorts in two styles were manufactured and fit tested on the half-scale forms compared to fit testing on the scan participants to test validity of this method of assessing fit.
Findings
Issues in capturing and reconstructing areas occluded in the scanning process, and reconstructing the interface with the bicycle seat were addressed. Active digital forms were developed across the size range, from which both digital avatars and physical mannequins were developed for pattern development and fit testing. The production and use of precisely half-scaled tools for garment testing was achieved and validated by comparing fit test results in active positions on the half-scale forms and on participants who were scanned to create these forms.
Originality/value
Design modifications for active positions to date are based on linear measurements alone, which do not define the 3D body adequately. Despite much research using body scanners, only limited data exist on the body in active poses, and the concept of creating half-scale forms by scanning fit models throughout the size range in active body positions is a novel concept. The progress made in resolving material and process experiments in creating the actual half-scale forms, and testing their suitability for fit testing provides a basis for further research aimed at developing similar dress forms for other activewear garments.
Journal Article
Draping Period Costumes
Draping Period Costumes provides you with the skill set you need to break away from two-dimensional patterns to drape three dimensional costumes. The basics of draping are explained in precise detail, followed by step-by-step draping projects from multiple historical periods.
eBook
Comparing Japanese and British impressions of dress forms
Purpose
A suitable dress form is necessary for patternmaking when manufacturing a garment for the global market. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the similarities and differences in visual impressions and preferences of dress forms between Japanese and British female university students.
Design/methodology/approach
The authors carried out sensory evaluations of the visual impressions of dress forms using images of four forms made in Japan, France, the UK and the USA. The participants (18 Japanese and 11 British female university students in their 20s) assessed them using the semantic differential method. In total, 22 adjective pairs concerning style, image and preference factors were used. The authors performed a principal component analysis on the results for style and image. For preference factors, one-way analysis of variance was used to analyze whether there was a difference in preference between the dress forms.
Findings
The Japanese students evaluated dress forms by considering balance and cool (fashionable) as the first principal component, and frailty and delicacy as the second. A large bust-to-waist ratio strengthens the impression of the latter component. The Japanese preferred dress forms of the kind worn by fashion models. Their preference was heavily influenced by the first principal component, but this preference decreased when the dress form evinced a weak impression. The British students assessed dress forms using healthy and cool (fashionable) as the first principal component, and frail and thin body as the second. A ratio of the width of the shoulder to that of the waist (at the front) of 1.6:1 and a rounded back shape from the side view were considered healthy.
Originality/value
These results can help understand the Japanese and British customers’ impressions and preferences on the dress form. Moreover, apparel manufacturers choose a suitable dress form to manufacture garments for the global market, by considering similarities and differences in people’s preferences.
Journal Article