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"Fashion designers United States 20th century."
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The hidden history of American fashion : rediscovering twentieth-century women designers
This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet who have been largely forgotten. While names such as Charles James, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein are familiar, their once-eminent forebears have been largely erased from the canon of fashion history in the United States. From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, who dressed the likes of Josephine Baker and Ella Fitzgerald, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. Focusing on unsung female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who contributed to the rich tapestry of the industry as it stands today, including designers who dressed celebrities and socialites, and millions of fashion-conscious American women. This lavishly illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion, including couture, tailoring, millinery, costume, and accessory design. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.
Book
The lost art of dress : the women who once made America stylish
\"A tribute to a time when style--and maybe even life--felt more straightforward, and however arbitrary, there were definitive answers.\" -- Paris Review As a glance down any street in America quickly reveals, American women have forgotten how to dress.We lack the fashion know-how we need to dress professionally and beautifully.
eBook
Patricia Underwood : the way you wear your hat
\"Renowned milliner Patricia Underwood presents a visually stunning and informative look at the transformative value of the hat. Featuring cloches, top hats, berets, fedoras, turbans, trilbies, sun hats, and more, this spirited volume luxuriates in the multifariousness of one of the most diverse accessories. The book's lavish illustrations showcase Underwood's many years of collaborations with such top-notch designers as Ralph Lauren, Perry Ellis, Oscar de la Renta, Isaac Mizrahi, and a host of others. Images are drawn from the designer's own archive, as well as editorial work from some of the world's greatest fashion photographers.\" - From book jacket.
Book
Designing Hollywood
Since the 1920s, fashion has played a central role in Hollywood.As the movie-going population consisted largely of women, studios made a concerted effort to attract a female audience by foregrounding fashion.
eBook
Bonnie Cashin : chic is where you find it
An exhilarating look at the quintessential American modernist, acclaimed for her \"Auntie Mame\" lifestyle, her iconoclastic approach to fashion, and her visionary designs for the modern American woman. Brimming with a half-century of creative work, 'Bonnie Cashin' celebrates the designer's incredible, well-traveled life and her revolutionary designs with an unflinching, happy elegance.
Book
Producing Fashion
How has Paris, the world's fashion capital, influenced Milan, New York, and Tokyo? When did the Marlboro Man become a symbol of American masculinity? Why do Americans love to dress down in high-tech Lycra fabrics, while they wax nostalgic for quaint, old-fashioned Victorian cottages? Fashion icons and failures have long captivated the general public, but few scholars have examined the historical role of business and commerce in creating the international market for style goods.Producing Fashionis a groundbreaking collection of original essays that shows how economic institutions in Europe and North America laid the foundation for the global fashion system and sustained it commercially through the mechanisms of advertising, licensing, marketing, publishing, and retailing. The collection reveals how public and private institutions-from government censors in imperial Russia to large corporations in the United States-worked to shape fashion, style, and taste with varying degrees of success. Fourteen contributors draw on original research and fresh insight into the producers of fashion-advertising agents, architects, corporate executives, department stores, designers, editors, government officials, hairdressers, haute couturiers, and Web retailers-in their bid for influence, acclaim, and shoppers' dollars.Producing Fashionlooks to the past, revealing the rationale behind style choices, while explaining how the interplay of custom, invented traditions, and sales imperatives continue to drive innovation in the fashion industries.
eBook
Young Originals : Emily Wilkens and the teen sophisticate
\"In the early 1940s, American designer Emily Wilkens went beyond her previous experience in children's wear to create costumes for two teenage characters in a Broadway play. Recognizing the growing importance of the teenager in American culture, she soon launched Emily Wilkens Young Originals, the first designer label specializing in upscale, fashionable clothing for teenage girls. Within the space of a few years, Wilkens skyrocketed from obscurity to national recognition, yet even today many fashion insiders would not recognize her name. Fashion historian Rebecca Jumper Matheson explores intertwining stories of female agency through the history of Wilkens and her teenage clientele. Wilkens retained both artistic and business control over her label in an era when most American ready-to-wear designers were anonymous employees of manufacturers. Wilkens parleyed her relative youth into a big-sister image which, like her dresses themselves, allowed her to mediate between the concerns of her teenage clients and their parents. Contrary to popular wisdom, Wilkens's designs declared that even a teenager could be fashionable. In doing so, Wilkens laid the foundation for the seismic shift that would occur later in the twentieth century, when youth became the fashionable ideal. Young Originals traces Wilkens's career from fashion illustrator in the 1930s to spa and beauty expert in the 1980s, emphasizing her consistent ideal of healthy, youthful beauty\"-- Provided by publisher.
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Edith Head : the fifty-year career of Hollywood's greatest costume designer
All About Eve. Funny Face. Sunset Blvd. Rear Window. Sabrina. A Place in the Sun. The Ten Commandments. Scores of iconic films of the last century had one thing in common: costume designer Edith Head (18971981). She racked up an unprecedented 35 Oscar nods and 400 film credits over the course of a fifty-year career. Never before has the account of Hollywood's most influential designer been so thoroughly revealedbecause never before have the Edith Head Archives of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences been tapped. This unprecedented access allows this book to be a one-of-a-kind survey, bringing together a spectacular collection of rare and never-before-seen sketches, costume test shots, behind-the- scenes photos, and ephemera.
eBook
Designing Modern America
From the 1920s through the 1950s, two individuals, Joseph Urban and Norman Bel Geddes, did more, by far, to create the image of \"America\" and make it synonymous with modernity than any of their contemporaries. Urban and Bel Geddes were leading Broadway stage designers and directors who turned their prodigious talents to other projects, becoming mavericks first in industrial design and then in commercial design, fashion, architecture, and more. The two men gave shape to the most quintessential symbols of the modern American lifestyle, including movies, cars, department stores, and nightclubs, along with private homes, kitchens, stoves, fridges, magazines, and numerous household furnishings.
Illustrated with more than 130 photographs of their influential designs, this book tells the engrossing story of Urban and Bel Geddes. Christopher Innes shows how these two men with a background in theater lent dramatic flair to everything they designed and how this theatricality gave the distinctive modernity they created such wide appeal. If the American lifestyle has been much imitated across the globe over the past fifty years, says Innes, it is due in large measure to the designs of Urban and Bel Geddes. Together they were responsible for creating what has been called the \"Golden Age\" of American culture.
eBook