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Sewn in Coal Country
By the mid-1930s, Pennsylvania's anthracite coal industry was
facing a steady decline. Mining areas such as the Wyoming Valley
around the cities of Wilkes-Barre and Pittston were full of willing
workers (including women) who proved irresistibly attractive to New
York City's \"runaway shops\"-ladies' apparel factories seeking lower
labor and other costs. The International Ladies' Garment Workers'
Union (ILGWU) soon followed, and the Valley became a thriving hub
of clothing production and union activity. This volume tells the
story of the area's apparel industry through the voices of men and
women who lived it.
Drawing from an archive of over sixty audio-recorded interviews
within the Northeastern Pennsylvania Oral and Life History
Collection, Sewn in Coal Country showcases sixteen stories
told by workers, shop owners, union leaders, and others. The
interview subjects recount the ILGWU-led movement to organize the
shops, the conflicts between the district union and the national
office in New York, the solidarity unionism approach of leader Min
Matheson, the role of organized crime within the business, and the
failed efforts to save the industry in the 1980s and 1990s. Robert
P. Wolensky places the narratives in the larger context of American
clothing manufacturing during the period and highlights their
broader implications for the study of labor, gender, the working
class, and oral history.
Highly readable and thoroughly enlightening, this significant
contribution to the study of labor history and women's history will
appeal to anyone interested in the relationships among workers,
unions, management, and community; the effects of economic change
on an area and its residents; the role of organized crime within
the industry; and Pennsylvania history-especially the social
history of industrialization and deindustrialization during the
twentieth century.
eBook
The HERrespect intervention to address violence against female garment workers in Bangladesh: study protocol for a quasi-experimental trial
Background
Women in Bangladesh experience high rates of Intimate Partner Violence (IPV). IPV is more prevalent against income earning women compared to their non-earning counterparts, and Workplace Violence (WPV) is also common. Such violence is a violation of women’s rights, and also constrains them from contributing to their personal growth, household, community and the economy at large. There is limited evidence on what works to prevent IPV and WPV amongst garment workers. This paper describes an evaluation of HERrespect, an intervention which aims to reduce IPV and WPV against female garment workers in and around Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Methods
The trial employs a quasi-experimental design, with four intervention and four control factories. In the intervention factories a randomly selected cohort of married female line workers, a cohort of male line workers, and all middle management staff received the intervention. The intervention strategies involved (1) gender transformative group-based training for workers and management staff; (2) joint session between workers (15 female and male) and middle-management staff; (3) factory-wide activities; (4) awareness raising among top management; (5) factory policy review and development and 6) a community based campaign. For the evaluation, a cohort of randomly selected female workers and a cohort of selected management staff have been established. All workers (
n
= 800) and management staff (
n
= 395) from these cohorts were interviewed at baseline using two different questionnaires, and will be interviewed in the endline, 24 months post-baseline. Intention to treat analysis will be used for assessing the impact of HERrespect, comparing the intervention and control factories.
Discussion
To our knowledge this is the first study that seeks to evaluate the impact on IPV and WPV, of group sessions with female workers, male workers, and management; factory-wide campaigns and a community intervention among female garment workers in Bangladesh. Apart from informing programmers and policy makers about intervention effectiveness in reducing IPV and WPV against female garment workers this study will also present evidence on an intervention tailored to the situation in the garment sector, which makes HERrespect scalable.
Trial registration
ClinicalTrials.gov NCT03304015, retrospectively registered on October 06, 2017.
Journal Article
The Garment Workers’ Union’s Pageant of Unity (1940) as manifestation of transnational working-class culture
In this article, I examine the Garment Workers’ Union’s theatre as a manifestation of transnational working-class culture in the 1940s. Analysing Pageant of Unity (1940), a play in which Afrikaans and English alternate to express the equality of Afrikaans- and English-speaking workers in the face of exploitation, I offer an attempt to escape the confines of a national literature as linked to a single language. I demonstrate how the political pageant—a genre typical of socialist propaganda and international trade unionism—was adapted to a South African context. This drama is, therefore, viewed as a product of cultural mobility between Europe, the United States, and South Africa. Assuming the ‘follow the actor’ approach of Bruno Latour’s Actor-Network Theory, I identify a network of interconnections between the nodes formed by human (drama practitioners and theoreticians, socialist organisers) and nonhuman actors (texts representing socialist drama conventions, in particular agitprop techniques). Tracing the inspirations and adaptations of conventions, I argue that Pageant of Unity most evidently realises the prescriptions outlined by the Russian drama theoretician Vsevolod Meyerhold whose approach influenced Guy Routh, one of the pageant’s creators. Thus, I focus on how this propaganda production utilises certain features of the Soviet avant-garde theatre, which testifies to the transnational character of South African working-class culture.
Journal Article
Prevalence and associated factors of occupational injuries among garment and textile workers: Evidence from the Bangladesh Labour Force Survey 2016–17
Annually, numerous workers face job loss, injuries, and fatalities due to various occupational injuries (OIs). However, less is known regarding the burden of OIs and their associated factors in the textile and garment industries in Bangladesh. This study aimed to determine the prevalence of OI and the individual and job-related factors associated with OI among textile and garment workers in Bangladesh. We analyzed cross-sectional data of 13,738 workers collected during 2016–2017 from the nationally representative Bangladesh Labor Force Survey. We employed multiple Firth logistic regression models to explore the different levels of associated factors of OI. The overall prevalence of OI was 1.8%, with a higher prevalence in the textile industry (3.8%) compared to the garment industry (1.2%). Within the textile industry, jute manufacturing exhibited the highest prevalence (12.3%), while in the garment sector, the embroidery and wearing industries had the highest prevalence (1.8%). Adjusted models revealed that, in the textile industry, migrant workers had higher odds of OI (Adjusted Odds Ratio, AOR = 1.65; p = 0.017) compared to non-migrant workers. In the garment industry, male workers (AOR = 1.95; p = 0.002) and those working over 48 hours per week (AOR = 1.70; p = 0.063) were at greater risk of OI. A hazardous work environment significantly increased the odds of OI in both industries (textile: AOR = 13.06; p < 0.001; and garment: AOR = 3.13; p < 0.001). Additionally, garment workers without adequate protective equipment or cloth while working had a higher likelihood of OI (AOR = 1.90; p = 0.006). Regionally, workers in the Barisal division had higher odds of OI in the textile industry. Although the overall prevalence of OI was low, the disproportionate burden among certain subgroups, especially in jute manufacturing and the manufacture of spooling and thread, highlights critical areas for intervention. Improving workplace safety through the provision of protective equipment and a safer working environment is essential to mitigating OI in the textile and garment industries of Bangladesh.
Journal Article
Work ability and associated factors among female ready-made garment workers in Bangladesh
The ready-made garment industry plays a crucial role in Bangladesh's economy and has made a significant contribution to womenempowerment by employing millions of female workers. The work ability, reflecting the productivity and well-being of a worker, has been less explored among female garment workers. This study aimed to explore this gap.
This cross-sectional study was conducted among 395 female garment workers aged ≥18 years at a factory in Dhaka from August-December 2023. Work ability was assessed using the Work Ability Index (WAI). Sociodemographic and work-related factors associated with WAI scores were identified using linear regression analysis.
The average age (±SD) of the participants was 31.05 ± 6.71 years. The Work Ability Index scores among participants showed a good mean (±SD) score of 40.65 ± 2.71 [Range: 7-49]. Younger age (p < 0.001), not having any children (p = 0.012), lower family income (<12,000 BDT) (p < 0.001), higher duration of job (p = 0.016) and working in the finishing section (p = 0.001) were associated with higher WAI scores. After adjustment, age (β = -0.06, 95% CI -0.10 to -0.01), income (β = -0.63, 95% CI -1.20 to -0.05), and working in finishing (adjusted β = 1.77, 95% CI: 0.32 to 3.21 compared to administration section) were independently associated with WAI scores.
The study identified several factors that can be considered when planning interventions to enhance work ability and well-being of female garment workers.
Journal Article
Internal migration impacts on the mental health of Bangladeshi female ready-made garment workers: a phenomenological study
The focus of this study is to understand the impact of internal migration (rural-to-urban) on the mental health of female garment workers in Bangladesh with reference to the psychological trauma of rural-to-urban migration. In detail, thirteen female migrant workers aged between 18 and 50 who moved within the past five years for job purposes in the garment industry were interviewed using a qualitative phenomenological approach. Based on the study, we find that work–related anxiety, working too long, bad working conditions, social isolation and separation from family lead to emotional stresses. On the other hand, it also underscores the fact that migration can offer economic opportunities, financial independence and empowerment which may increase self-esteem and give a sense of achievement. Our findings indicate that migration’s mental health effect is dual, positive and negative, depending on the individual experience. It highlights the urgency to develop targeted interventions to improve psychological dimensions of mental health services for this group, bring about workplace improvements, and create supportive systems within which female migrants can be supported to overcome their psychological challenges. There is still more to do in future research to evaluate the effectiveness of interventions intended to improve the wellbeing of migrant workers as well as the longitudinal effects of migration on mental health.
Journal Article
Prevalence of work related musculoskeletal disorders (WMSDs) and ergonomic risk assessment among readymade garment workers of Bangladesh: A cross sectional study
Work related Musculoskeletal Disorders (WMSDs) are one of the most common occupational diseases which mainly affects the lower back, neck and upper and lower extremities. The aim of this study was to determine prevalence of WMSDs in nine body regions among Ready Made Garment (RMG) workers in Bangladesh and ergonomics assessment of their exposure to risk factors for the development of WMSDs.
This cross-sectional study was conducted among 232 RMG employees (male: 46; female: 186; age: >18yrs) from nine RMG factories in Dhaka division during October 2015 to February 2016. Data were collected using a structured questionnaire consist of demographic questions, Nordic Musculoskeletal Questionnaire-Extended (NMQ-E) for WMSDs assessment in nine body regions and Quick Exposure Check (QEC) method for ergonomic assessment. Prevalence of WMSDs for each body region was determined. The association between WMSDs and ergonomic assessment of their exposure to risk factors were also analyzed.
Respondents' mean age was 31.3 years (SD = 7). Their mean Body Mass Index (BMI) was 23.51 kg/m2 (SD = 3.74). Among 186 female respondents, 46 reported lower back pain (24.7%) and 44 reported neck pain (23.7%). Among 46 male respondents, 10 reported neck pain (21.7%) while 6 reported knee pain (13%). Statistically significant relationship was found between twelve month WMSDs in anatomical region in elbows (p = 0.02), hips (p = 0.01), knees (p = 0.01) and ankle (p = 0.05) with age; upper back (p = 0.001), elbows (p = 0.001), wrists (p = 0.03), hips (p = 0.001) and ankles (p = 0.01) with job experience; hips with BMI (p = 0.03); elbows (p = 0.04) with daily working hour. QEC assessment showed that level of exposure to WMSDs risk was high among 80% of the study population (p<0.003).
The study found that lower back and neck were the most affected areas among RMG workers. Moreover, QEC findings warned the level of exposure to WMSDs risks is high and ergonomics intervention along with investigation and change to decrease exposure level is essential. Addressing musculoskeletal risk factors through ergonomic interventions in terms of working space, workers sitting/standing posture, seat and hand position during work and work-rest cycle are encouraged in RMG sector and policy makers.
Journal Article
Health vulnerabilities of readymade garment (RMG) workers: a systematic review
Background
There is a paucity of literature that addresses the health vulnerabilities of readymade garment (RMG) workers in South and Southeast Asian regions. Therefore, the aim of this systematic review is to identify the distinctive types of health vulnerabilities along with the causes and consequences of these vulnerabilities of the RMG workers in South and Southeast Asian regions.
Methods
Systematic review search methods were applied utilising the PRISMA protocol. Literature published between July 2007 to June 2017 on health vulnerabilities of the RMG workers of South and Southeast Asian countries were identified through electronic databases and manual searches.
Results
A total number of 19 studies (16 quantitative studies, 3 mixed-method studies) were included from the primary 17,001 papers identified. The quality of these studies was assessed by using the EPHPP (effective public health practice project) and the CASP (critical appraisal skills programme) tools. From the identified studies, 14 were considered ‘strong,’ with the remainder assessed as ‘moderate’ quality. The findings reported in these studies suggest that RMG workers of South and Southeast Asian countries are prone to several health vulnerabilities which include physical and psychological issues. Further, many of these health vulnerabilities arise from the nature of the RMG workplace, and include unhygienic and unsafe working environments, hazardous conditions of the factories, and lack of safety equipment.
Conclusions
This systematic review suggests that RMG workers’ health vulnerabilities are an emerging area of inquiry that needs to be better understood and solutions identified. Little is currently known about the distinctive types of health vulnerabilities of the RMG workers of these countries, other than Bangladesh and India, due to the lack of robust studies in other South and Southeast Asian countries. Although the health vulnerabilities of the Bangladeshi and Indian RMG workers have been previously highlighted, the health vulnerabilities arising from sudden disasters in the sector remain a neglected issue.
Journal Article
Understanding the Resilience of Garment Workers’ Families Through a Mixed-Method Approach: Surviving the Economic Hardship During the Covid-19 Pandemic in Indonesia
The Covid-19 pandemic has exerted enormous economic stressors on garment workers in the form of income decline, furlough, and layoffs, affecting their families. However, research on family resilience among garment workers is limited, particularly in Indonesia. This study examines the factors associated with the resilience of garment workers’ families. We used a complementary mixed-methods approach to analyze data from the 2021 Family and Community Resilience Survey. To enrich the study, we also performed 23 in-depth interviews and two focus group discussions in Bogor and Bandung Regencies. We assess family resilience as their current status in resolving their most disruptive stressor. We fitted a multinomial logistic regression model and assessed the relative variable importance, with socio-economic characteristics, social assistance, and family organizational factors as groups of explanatory variables. Less than half of the families (46.67%) overcame their most significant stressor. Regression analysis shows that wealth index, cash assistance, and role in the family are the three most contributing variables. Qualitative results underscore the importance of economic resources or access to cash assistance during the Covid-19 pandemic. However, reliance on Emok Bank or other informal lenders can create new stressors due to their high-interest rates. This option is common among garment workers, who usually cannot access the government’s assistance as many are migrants. The study emphasizes the need to strengthen formal social protection systems, especially for vulnerable populations like garment workers, to protect them from future crises.
Journal Article