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\"Before, it was Champagne, singular,\" said Michel Drappier of Drappier, the largest and best known producer in the [Aube], which was founded in 1808 but didn't begin to bottle its own wines until the early 20th century. \"Now it is Champagnes, plural, as sophisticated and complex as Burgundy, with as many villages, winemakers and styles as any place.\" If the evolution of the Aube seems a bit of a Cinderella story, it's with good reason. A century ago, in 1911, riots tore through Champagne as, among other issues, the big houses in the Marne tried to exclude the Aube from the Champagne appellation. Eventually, a compromise was reached in which the Aube was granted second-class Champagne status. Even after the Marne finally, if gingerly, embraced the Aube as a full part of Champagne in 1927, none of its vineyards was designated grand cru or even premier cru, marks of quality reserved only for the Marne. \"Always, we were second class,\" said Emmanuel Lassaigne, whose Champagne house, [Jacques Lassaigne], is in Montgueux, a small village west of Troyes. \"People in the Marne will still say, 'The Aube is no good.\"'