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"Leather garments."
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Putting on the dog : the animal origins of what we wear
\"Kwasny investigates the cultural history of fashion, traveling the globe to gather firsthand accounts of traditions and manufacturing methods, from aboriginal to modern, as she investigates the phenomenology of silk, skin, wool, feathers, and pearls, long coveted materials that even today are regarded as precious and luxurious\"-- Provided by publisher.
Book
Why Leather?
This pioneering volume brings together specialists from contemporary craft and industry and from archaeology to examine both the material properties and the cultural dimensions of leather. The common occurrence of animal skin products through time, whether vegetable tanned leather, parchment, vellum, fat-cured skins or rawhide attest to its enduring versatility, utility and desirability. Typically grouped together as leather, the versatility of these materials is remarkable: they can be soft and supple like a textile, firm and rigid like a basket, or hard and watertight like a pot or gourd. This volume challenges a simple utilitarian or functional approach to leather; in a world of technological and material choices, leather is appropriated according to its suitability on many levels. In addressing the question Why leather? authors of this volume present new perspectives on the material and cultural dimensions of leather. Their wide-ranging research includes the microscopic examination of skin structure and its influence on behaviour, experiments on medieval cuir bouilli armour, the guild secrets behind the leather components of nineteenth-century industrial machinery, new research on ancient Egyptian chariot leather, the relationship between wine and wineskins, and the making of contemporary leather wall covering.
eBook
Solving two-dimensional cutting stock problem via a DNA computing algorithm
Two-dimensional cutting stock problem (TDCSP) is a well-known combinatorial optimization problem in which a given set of two-dimensional small pieces with different shapes should be cut from a given main board so that the demand of each small piece is satisfied and the total waste is minimized. Since TDCSP is an NP-complete problem, it is unsolvable in polynomial time on electronic computers. However, using the structure of DNA molecules, DNA computing algorithms are capable to solve NP-complete problems in polynomial time. In this paper, a DNA computing algorithm based on the sticker model is presented to find the optimal solution to TDCSP. It is proved that the time complexity of this algorithm on DNA computers is polynomial considering the number of small pieces and the length and width of the main board.
Journal Article
Advantages of Utilizing Microwave in Soft Leather Drying
The leather was dried by microwave and compared with the leather dried by oven in mechanical properties, softness, shrinkage temperature, microstructure as well as uniformities of chrome tanning agent, fatliquoring agent and dyestuff as new method for soft leather drying to keep and improve its softness and comprehensive properties. The results indicated that microwave drying would not damage leather collagen structure. Meanwhile, as microwave drying was even and would promote the combinations of collagen with other chemicals, the softness and mechanical properties of microwave dried leather were improved, in addition, the shrinkage temperature and uniformities of chrome tanning agent, fatliquoring agent and dyestuff were also promoted. Moreover, much more orderly and porous arrangement but less adhesion in collagen matrix of microwave dried leather were observed. These phenomena illustrated microwave dried leather could meet the high quality demands of leather better in softness and uniformity. To sum up, microwave has many advantages in drying soft leather products.
Magazine Article
The Changes on Some Chemical Properties of Artificially Aged Garment Leathers
Aging is a process of reversible and/or irreversible structural change of material, which depends on structural characteristics and environmental factors. Heat, humidity, UV radiation, chemical effects and their causes in visible and invisible damages which lead to structural deteriorations and decreases in fastness are some factors that aging in leathers and leather products depends on. In this research, chromium (VI) and formaldehyde contents which resulted after artificial aging procedure in chrome, vegetable and semivegetable tanned garment leathers, caused by the chemical decomposition, have been investigated. Temperature, temperature/humidity and temperature/UV radiation have been chosen as aging factors. According to the findings, in finished garment leather samples, chromium (VI) and formaldehyde contents were higher than acceptable limits and aging conditions effective on level of increase have been investigated through ISO 17228 (2005) artificial aging procedure depending on temperature, humidity and UV radiation.
Magazine Article
THE POLITICAL ECONOMY OF PRIVATE AND PUBLIC REGULATION IN POST-RANA PLAZA BANGLADESH
How do public and private labor governance regimes intersect in global supply chains and with what effects? Based on fieldwork in Bangladesh, including interviews with garment industry stakeholders, this article examines the main public and private regulatory reforms instituted in post-Rana Plaza Bangladesh: the Sustainability Compact and the Bangladesh Accord, respectively. Despite the Accord’s substantial achievements in improving workplace safety, particularly relative to the progress achieved under the Compact, findings show that government and industry actors in Bangladesh have resisted the Accord’s efforts to empower workers for fear that improved labor standards would threaten managerial control over one of the global garment industry’s largest and cheapest labor forces. Rather than being an example of complementarity between private and public governance, or an effective substitution of one by the other, post-Rana Plaza Bangladesh represents an undermining of effective private regulation by a state opposed to pro-labor reforms.
Journal Article
United States Labor Attach, Nicholas Stigliani, Meets with Cedric Petersen of the Garment Workers Union of the Western Province
Cedric Petersen asserts that the Garment Workers Union of the Western Province (South Africa) is seeking to become involved in community issues, and increase cooperation with the [Council of Unions of South Africa; Congress of South African Trade Unions] under the umbrella of the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers Federation and would like to set up a coordinating council in South Africa; Nicholas Stigliani forwards a request from Cedric Petersen of the Garment Workers Union of the Western Province (South Africa) for Funding for the unions Training programs to the African-American Labor Center for consideration; Garment Workers Union of the Western Province (South Africa) members are primarily [Women; Coloureds]
Government Document
Study on Effect of Leather Rigidity and Thickness on Drapability of Sheep Garment Leather
Understanding the performance and behavior of garment leathers provides valuable inputs for the design and production of leather garments. The drape is one of the important properties associated with garment fitness quality and appeal. This study aims to show how the independent variables flexural rigidity and thickness affect the dependent variable drapability. Nowadays, studies on the drape of garment leathers are scarce. In this work, the drape coefficient (DC) was measured for sheep garment leather, which influences the garment drapability, such as flexural rigidity in the range of 9.2 to 22 and thickness in the range of 0.64 to 0.96. The average DC was calculated in the range of 47.35 to 69.9% for the selected sheep leathers from four samples. The drapability of the garment leather was determined using the DC. Flexural rigidity and thickness have been shown to have a considerable influence on the DC, while they do bear a significant relationship to the DC. The results of this study can be used as an elementary tool for leather selection of appropriate materials for garments.
Journal Article
The Destructive Effects of Extremely Halophilic Archaeal Strains on Sheepskins, and Proposals for Remedial Curing Processes : Use of sterile brine or direct electric current to prevent red heat damage on salted sheepskins
Proteolytic and lipolytic extremely halophilic archaea found in curing salt may contaminate skins during the brine curing process and damage skin structure. In the present study, three proteolytic and lipolytic extremely halophilic archaea were isolated from deteriorated salted sheepskins
and characterised using conventional and molecular methods. Each test strain (Haloarcula salaria AT1, Halobacterium salinarum 22T6, Haloarcula tradensis 7T3), a mixed culture of these strains and the mixed culture treated with 1.5 A direct current (DC) were used
for brine curing processes of fresh sheepskins and examined during 47 days of storage to evaluate the degree of destruction wreaked by these microorganisms. Both organoleptic properties and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images of sheepskins proved that each separate test strain and the
mixed culture caused serious damage. However, the mixed culture of strains treated with electric current did not damage sheepskin structure. Therefore, we highly recommend sterilisation of brine using DC to prevent archaeal damage on cured hides and skins in the leather industry.
Journal Article