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"Mode Histoire."
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Fashion
Controversial and unconventional, this collection examines Canadian identity in terms of the fashion worn and designed over the last three centuries, and the internal and external influences of those socio-cultural decisions.
eBook
Nues sous l’œil des médecins. Discours hygiénistes sur les femmes vêtues à la mode (1795-1815)
Les transformations de l’habillement féminin dans la France de l’extrême fin du xviii e siècle suscitent une réaction du monde médical. Apparentant ces nouvelles tendances vestimentaires à un dévêtissement délétère, les médecins entreprennent de réguler les pratiques de leurs contemporaines à la mode et invoquent la préservation de la moralité, de la beauté et de la santé (individuelle et collective). L’étude à la fois resserrée et contextualisée d’un échantillon de textes médicaux met en lumière les conceptions genrées et les savoirs qui les sous-tendent ainsi que les procédés d’écriture et les stratégies discursives qui les caractérisent. Allant de la dissuasion à la persuasion, ces discours témoignent de la mise en œuvre d’un regard qui dénude et érotise le corps féminin. Cet article éclaire un moment où le corps vêtu est perçu comme nu, et intéresse ainsi l’histoire des représentations de la nudité féminine. Changes in women’s clothing at the end of the eighteenth century in France (the revealing dresses worn by the merveilleuses ) provoked a medical reaction. Physicians described the mode for such clothing as a harmful form of undressing ; in so doing, they sought to regulate the practices of women who followed fashion, and called for the preservation of individual and collective morality, beauty and health. Through a close and contextualized reading of a selection of medical texts, this article highlights the gendered conceptions and standard knowledge underlying them, and examines the rhetorical devices and discursive strategies employed. These discourses, seeking both to dissuade and persuade, reveal how the medical gaze was in fact stripping and eroticizing the female body. By highlighting a moment when the clothed body was perceived as naked, the article contributes to the history of representations of female nudity.
Journal Article
Frankie Welch's Americana : fashion, scarves, and politics
\"Ashley Callahan's richly illustrated book, Frankie Welch's Americana: Fashion, Scarves, and Politics, with a foreword by LaDonna Harris, illuminates Frankie Welch's remarkable career by discussing her designs as they relate to the tradition of political swag, reflect women's changing roles in politics and business, and embody fashion styles of the 1960s, 70s, and 80s. Welch began fashion consulting (advising individuals what clothing to wear and buy) in the early 1950s and established her dress shop, Frankie Welch of Virginia, in Alexandria in 1963. She deftly navigated the complex social and political connections in the Washington, D.C. area, and her shop became a leading fashion destination for the political set. She created thousands of signature scarves for political campaigns, both major political parties, clubs, schools and alumni groups, corporations, and foundations as diverse as McDonald's, the Smithsonian Institution, United Way, the Algonquin Hotel, the United States Air Force, TimeLife Books, the Folger Shakespeare Library, McCormick Spice, the New York Jets, the National Press Club, the National Trucking Association, and the University of Georgia. She provided scarves for Betty Ford, Jimmy Carter, and the Reagan/Bush inauguration. Frankie Welch's Americana also identifies significant designs and discusses their creation, use, and influence in detail. It also highlights how Welch embraced and promoted her role as an entrepreneur, building a niche business that capitalized on her location near Washington and political connections, as well as her fashion expertise. Each scarf design offers an opportunity for a general audience to view the nation's recent past through the informative lens of women's fashion, and the story of Welch's success presents an appealing, accessible narrative\"-- Provided by publisher.
Book
From traditional attire to modern dress : modes of identification, modes of recognition in the Balkans (XVIth -XXth centuries)
These essays speak about the visible items, like clothing, jewellery, the opulence of the elite, fashion and styles, but they also inform the reader about the manner in which these connect with the political and social evolutions. In and between these lines, one may guess the existence of important themes regarding the history of textiles, the transfers of the commercial venues and of the different artisan centres, the professionalization of the various fields in the history of fashion and th.
eBook
Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe unlock'd : the inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes prepared in July 1600, edited from Stowe MS 557 in the British Library, MS LR 2/121 in the Public Record Office, London, and MS V.b.72 in the Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington DC
This work on the wardrobe of Queen Elizabeth I is illustrated with photographs of portraits, minatures, tomb sculptures, engravings, woven textiles and embroiders. Two indexes are provided: the first of paintings, persons, places and events; the second offering information on fashionable dress.
BOOK
Designing Hollywood
Since the 1920s, fashion has played a central role in Hollywood.As the movie-going population consisted largely of women, studios made a concerted effort to attract a female audience by foregrounding fashion.
eBook
Viva M.A.C : AIDS, fashion, and the philanthropic practices of M.A.C Cosmetics
\"This is the first cultural history of the originally Canadian company M.A.C Cosmetics, charting the evolution of M.A.C's unusual corporate philanthropy around HIV/AIDS awareness. The book situates M.A.C's remarkable corporate philanthropy within three cultural and social phenomena of the 1980s and 1990s: the revitalization of the Toronto fashion industry, the evolution of the AIDS epidemic in North America, and the increasing commodification of social causes. Describing M.A.C's philanthropic work through its VIVA GLAM fundraising lipstick, this book delves into the history of its charity, the M.A.C AIDS Fund, which featured drag performer RuPaul and singer k.d. lang in its first advertising campaigns. M.A.C defied the stigma associated with AIDS that alarmed many other corporations, and instead engaged in AIDS advocacy while maintaining its creative and fashionable authority. Framed by Pierre Bourdieu's field theory and Judith Butler's gender theory, and engaging with archives, contemporaneous media communications, and interviews with key fashion figures, the book explains how M.A.C's activities around AIDS philanthropy were based in specific cultural practices, rather than being part of a strategic marketing plan. Ultimately, M.A.C's unusual style of corporate social responsibility originated and functioned within the same field of cultural production in which the AIDS crisis was directly experienced: fashion. As such, M.A.C's activities can be viewed as markedly different from other cases of corporate philanthropy or cause marketing.\"-- Provided by publisher.
BOOK
Floral Culture and the Tudor and Stuart Courts
At court, flowers coloured, scented, adorned, sustained, nourished, and enthralled. These interdisciplinary essays engage with flowers as real, artificial, and represented objects across the Tudor and Stuart courts in gardens, literature, painting, interior furnishing, garments, and as jewels, medicine, and food. Situating this burgeoning floral culture within a European floral revolution of science, natural history, global trade, and colonial expansion, they reveal the court's distinctive floral identity and history. If the rose operated as a particularly English lingua franca of royal power across two dynasties, this volume sheds light on an array of wild and garden flowers to offer an immersive picture of how the Tudor and Stuart courts lived and functioned, styled and displayed themselves through flowers. It contributes to a revival of interest in the early modern green world and provides a focused view of a court and court culture that used and revelled in blooms.
eBook