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"Ocean waves"
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Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves
Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last 15 years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic: researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
eBook
Waves in oceanic and coastal waters
This volume describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, shelf seas, and coastal regions. It introduces observation techniques for waves, both in-situ and through remote-sensing, and defines the parameters that characterise waves.
Book
Wave Attenuation by Sea Ice in the Arctic Marginal Ice Zone Observed by Spaceborne SAR
Attenuation of ocean waves by ice is a crucial process of the interaction between waves and sea ice in marginal ice zone (MIZ), while such interaction can contribute to the retreating of sea ice in the Arctic. Based on the retrieved two‐dimensional ocean wave spectra by spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar, we investigated the attenuation of ocean waves in the MIZ in Svalbard and Greenland. The results show that the energy attenuation rate ranges from 0.126 × 10−4/m to 0.618 × 10−4/m. Quantitative analysis suggests that the attenuation rate is significantly related to wave height and peak wave period of coming waves. It is further found that the waves decay faster in the area with ice thickness exceeding 0.5 m. We compared the derived wave attenuation rates in the present study with those in previous studies based on in situ measurements, which reveals that waves are becoming less attenuated by sea ice in the Arctic. Plain Language Summary The interaction between sea ice and ocean waves is one of the key processes that accelerates the retreat of sea ice in the Arctic. The attenuation of ocean waves by sea ice is crucial to understanding the wave‐ice interaction mechanism and predicting ice changes. Spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR), capable of imaging ocean waves and sea ice in two‐dimension with high spatial resolution, has shown tremendous potential in studies on wave‐ice interaction. In this study, SAR images acquired in ice‐covered areas near Svalbard and east of Greenland were collected, and then ocean wave spectra were retrieved from these SAR images. Ocean wave spectra depict sea states elaborately by showing the wave energy distribution in different frequencies and directions. Subsequently, we derived the wave attenuation rate in sea ice from these wave spectra. By comparing the derived attenuation rates with previous field observations, the study reveals a lower attenuation rate, which suggests the waves were less attenuated by ice in past decades under ongoing retreating and thinning of sea ice in the Arctic. This indicates that waves can penetrate sea ice easier and deeper, which may further induce the retreating of sea ice. Key Points Wave attenuation rate in sea ice was derived based on non‐linear inversion of two‐dimensional ocean wave spectra by Synthetic Aperture Radar in the Arctic marginal ice zone (MIZ) The attenuation rate generally follows the exponential law, varying with sea state (wave height and period) and sea ice conditions Combining previous studies and this one, we may infer that the wave attenuation in the Artic MIZ is weakening due to sea ice retreat
Journal Article
Robustness and uncertainties in global multivariate wind-wave climate projections
Understanding climate-driven impacts on the multivariate global wind-wave climate is paramount to effective offshore/coastal climate adaptation planning. However, the use of single-method ensembles and variations arising from different methodologies has resulted in unquantified uncertainty amongst existing global wave climate projections. Here, assessing the first coherent, community-driven, multi-method ensemble of global wave climate projections, we demonstrate widespread ocean regions with robust changes in annual mean significant wave height and mean wave period of 5–15% and shifts in mean wave direction of 5–15°, under a high-emission scenario. Approximately 50% of the world’s coastline is at risk from wave climate change, with ~40% revealing robust changes in at least two variables. Furthermore, we find that uncertainty in current projections is dominated by climate model-driven uncertainty, and that single-method modelling studies are unable to capture up to ~50% of the total associated uncertainty.
Journal Article
Ghost wave : the biggest wave on Earth and the men who challenged it
A hundred miles off the California coastline, a fabled peak rises from the depths of the North Pacific, stopping just fifteen feet short of the ocean's surface. Legends and grave warnings surround this submerged mountain, known as Cortes Bank-- rumors of lost ships, spinning compasses, of bus-size sharks and man-size lobsters. Yet, the most daring of big wave surfers head out to the Bank for one simple reason-- it is home to the biggest rideable wave on the face of the Earth, a swell of massive proportions that surges in from out of nowhere like a monster. In this meticulously-researched, salt-crusted adventure tale, journalist Chris Dixon hits the high seas to bring the secrets of Cortes Bank to the surface, drawing readers into the harrowing world of the most enigmatic rock in the sea and the tremendously dangerous big wave surfing that occurs above it.
Book
Phase‐Resolved Swells Across Ocean Basins in SWOT Altimetry Data: Revealing Centimeter‐Scale Wave Heights Including Coastal Reflection
Severe storms produce ocean waves with periods of 18–26 s, corresponding to wavelengths 500–1,055 m. These waves radiate globally as swell, generating microseisms and affecting coastal areas. Despite their significance, long waves often elude detection by existing remote sensing systems when their height is below 0.2 m. The new Surface Water Ocean Topography (SWOT) satellite offers a breakthrough by resolving these waves in global sea level measurements. Here we show that SWOT can detect 25‐s waves with heights as low as 3 cm, and resolves period and direction better than in situ buoys. SWOT provides detailed maps of wave height, wavelength, and direction across ocean basins. These measurements unveil intricate spatial patterns, shedding light on wave generation in storms, currents that influence propagation, and refraction, diffraction and reflection in shallow regions. Notably, the magnitude of reflections exceeds previous expectations, illustrating SWOT's transformative impact. Plain Language Summary Wind storms at sea make waves that increase in size with wind speed, and with the distance over which the high winds have been able to amplify the waves. Once generated these waves propagate as swell around the world ocean: in that stage the wave period remains constant while the wave height decay away from the source. Waves with periods longer than 18 s are relatively infrequent, but they are an important source of seismic waves and coastal impacts. However, current remote sensing techniques miss long waves under 0.2 m high. The Surface Water Ocean Topography (SWOT) satellite mission changes this, spotting 25‐s waves with heights as low as 3 cm. SWOT maps wave height, wavelength, and direction worldwide, revealing the influence of winds, currents and water depth. For example, We found stronger than expected coastal reflection, which will help revise wave forecasting models and their application in seismology. Key Points Surface Water Ocean Topography (SWOT) data provide the first open ocean spatial measurements of phase‐resolved swells with wavelength 500–1,050 m Swells with heights as low as 3 cm are well detected by SWOT, allowing tracking across oceans Swell reflection off the coast can be separated from incident waves
Journal Article
The interaction of ocean waves and wind
This text describes the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves, and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days.
Book
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
eBook