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Skin Photoprotection and Anti-Aging Benefits of a Combination of Rosemary and Grapefruit Extracts: Evidence from In Vitro Models and Human Study
Skin exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) causes oxidative stress, inflammation, and collagen degradation and can trigger erythema. While topical formulas protect the skin from UV damage, there is growing evidence that certain botanical ingredients taken orally may have an added benefit. This study evaluated the photoprotective, anti-photoaging, and anti-erythema efficacy of a combination of rosemary and grapefruit extract (Nutroxsun®). Radical oxygen species (ROS) generation and interleukin production were determined in UV-irradiated keratinocytes (HaCaT). Also, collagen and elastin secretion and metalloproteinase (MMP-1 and MMP-3) content were assessed in UV-irradiated fibroblasts (NHDFs). Furthermore, a placebo-controlled, randomized, crossover study was conducted in 20 subjects (phototypes I to III) receiving two doses, 100 and 200 mg, of the ingredient. Skin redness (a* value, CIELab) after exposure to one minimal erythemal dose of UVR was assessed. As a result, the botanical blend significantly attenuated the UVR-induced reductions of procollagen I and elastin and lowered MMP-1 and MMP-3 protein secretion. Also, a reduction in ROS and proinflammatory interleukins (IL-1, IL-8, and IL-6) was observed. Finally, the botanical blend, at both doses, significantly reduced UV-induced erythema reaction from the first day of intake and accelerated recovery. These findings reinforce the potential of this ingredient as an effective dietary solution to protect the skin against UV-induced damage.
Journal Article
Defining skin aging and its risk factors: a systematic review and meta-analysis
Skin aging has been defined to encompass both intrinsic and extrinsic aging, with extrinsic aging effected by environmental influences and overlaying the effects of chronological aging. The risk factors of skin aging have been studied previously, using methods of quantifying skin aging. However, these studies have yet to be reviewed. To better understand skin aging risk factors and collate the available data, we aimed to conduct a systematic review and meta-analysis. We conducted our systematic review in compliance with Preferred Reporting Item for Systematic Review and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines. Embase, PubMed and Web of Science databases were searched in October 2020 using specific search strategies. Where odds ratios were reported, meta-analyses were conducted using the random effects model. Otherwise, significant factors were reported in this review. We identified seven notable risk factors for various skin aging phenotypes: age, gender, ethnicity, air pollution, nutrition, smoking, sun exposure. This review’s results will guide future works, such as those aiming to examine the interaction between genetic and environmental influences.
Journal Article
Novel Thermus thermophilus and Bacillus subtilis mixed‐culture ferment extract provides potent skin benefits in vitro and protects skin from aging
Background Skin aging is one of the most abundant aging‐related disorders that can be accelerated by excessive exposure to ultraviolet irradiation. Topically applied fermented skincare ingredients have gained mounting attentions due to their high concentration of various skin nourishing nutrients and bioactive components and low skin irritation potency. Aims In the present study, we aim to fully demonstrate the skin‐related benefits of a novel extract of Thermus thermophilus and Bacillus subtilis mixed‐culture ferment (TBFE). Methods TBFE was prepared through an innovative mixed‐culture fermentation process. The contents of nutrients and bioactive ingredients were quantified by different methods accordingly. Both in vitro tests and randomized controlled human trial were utilized to further demonstrate multifaceted beneficial effects on human skin, as well as the potential mechanisms. Results Our results showed that TBFE upregulated the expression of type IV collagen, elastin, aquaporin‐3, and dermal‐epidermal junction markers, while inhibited production of melanin, in different skin cell models. Moreover, TBFE inhibited the generation of reactive oxygen species and pro‐inflammatory mediators induced by ultraviolet irradiation in normal human keratinocytes, while stimulated autophagy in senescent keratinocytes. Results from clinical studies confirmed those in vitro findings, demonstrating that TBFE at 5% and 20% concentration provides anti‐aging properties in subjects with sensitive skin, in terms of improving wrinkles, moisturization, and skin lightening. Conclusions In summary, we demonstrate that a novel mixed‐culture ferment extract has promising anti‐aging effects, which may be attributed to anti‐oxidation, anti‐inflammation, and promotion of autophagy in skin cells.
Journal Article
Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges
Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals’ larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term “cosmeceutical”, referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.
Journal Article
A Split‐Face Randomized Study on the Efficacy of a Platinum‐Liposome‐Based Facial Mask Containing Soothing Ingredients for Post‐Photorejuvenation Skin Recovery
Background Photorejuvenation is commonly employed to improve skin appearance but frequently leads to transient irritation and temporary impairment of skin barrier function. Incorporating platinum (Pt)‐liposome technology along with soothing ingredients such as panthenol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, madecassoside, and Portulaca oleracea extract is expected to offer enhanced reparative and anti‐inflammatory effects, helping to alleviate post‐procedural skin sensitivity and restore barrier integrity. Aims This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy of a Pt‐liposome‐based facial mask in promoting skin recovery and soothing irritation post‐photorejuvenation. Furthermore, the study assessed potential synergistic benefits from combining Pt‐liposomes with established soothing agents. Patients/Methods We initially assessed the reparative effects of Pt‐liposomes using a 3D epidermal skin model and normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK), evaluating parameters such as stratum corneum thickness, cholesterol content, ceramide chain length, and inflammatory responses (IL‐8 mRNA expression) following lipopolysaccharide (LPS) stimulation. A randomized, split‐face clinical trial involving 30 subjects who underwent photorejuvenation treatment was then conducted. Each participant applied the Pt‐liposome‐infused facial mask to one side of the face and a control product on the other side. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and erythema, tightness, dryness, and scaliness were assessed using objective instrumentation and subjective evaluations at baseline and various intervals up to 14 days post‐treatment. Results In vitro testing showed that Pt‐liposomes significantly increased stratum corneum thickness, cholesterol levels, and ceramide chain length (p < 0.01). Pt‐liposomes also reduced histamine‐induced calcium influx in NHEK cells (p < 0.01). In LPS‐stimulated THP‐1 cells, combined treatment with Pt‐liposomes and soothing agents resulted in a greater reduction in IL‐8 mRNA expression compared to either component alone (p < 0.01). Clinical measurements indicated that the application of the Pt‐liposome‐based facial mask significantly increased skin hydration and reduced TEWL compared to control (p < 0.001) from Day 1 to Day 14. Subjective and dermatological evaluations showed statistically significant improvements in erythema, tightness, dryness, and scaliness on the treated side at all measured time points. No adverse reactions were reported. Conclusion The Pt‐liposome‐infused facial mask can effectively promote skin barrier repair, alleviate irritation, and enhance hydration following photorejuvenation. Its synergistic combination with soothing ingredients provides rapid relief from irritation and sustained therapeutic benefits, supporting its potential as a safe and effective option for post‐procedural skincare.
Journal Article
Oral administration of cysteine peptides attenuates UV-B-induced skin erythema and pigmentation in humans
The oral administration of antioxidants may suppress UV-B-induced skin damage. HITHION YH-15, the extract of Torula yeast (
Cyberlindnera jadinii
), is rich in cysteine-containing peptides such as reduced and oxidized glutathione (GSH and GSSG), γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-Glu-Cys), and cysteinylglycine (Cys-Gly). These four constituents are termed cysteine peptides. In this study, we investigated the protective effects of cysteine peptides against UV-B in a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind, parallel-group study. A total of 90 healthy males and females aged 30–59 years were enrolled and randomized into two groups of 45 individuals each (cysteine peptides (48 mg/day) and placebo). Changes in UV-B-induced erythema and pigmentation were compared between groups after 5 weeks of test food intake. The minimal erythema dose (MED) significantly increased (*
p
= 0.019) in the cysteine peptides group compared to that in the placebo group, indicating suppression of UV-B-induced erythema. ΔL* value significantly increased (***
p
< 0.0001) in the cysteine peptides group compared to that in the placebo, indicating pigmentation suppression. We demonstrated that oral administration of cysteine peptides suppresses UV-B-induced erythema and pigmentation through multiple mechanisms. Thus, cysteine peptides may find use as nutricosmetics for maintaining skin health and well-being.
UMIN Clinical Trials Registry ID: UMIN 000050157.
Journal Article
A review on non-Hermitian skin effect
The past decades have witnessed the flourishing of non-Hermitian physics in non-conservative systems, leading to unprecedented phenomena of unidirectional invisibility, enhanced sensitivity and more recently the novel topological features such as bulk Fermi arcs. Among them, growing efforts have been invested to an intriguing phenomenon, known as the non-Hermitian skin effect (NHSE). Here, we review the recent progress in this emerging field. By starting from the one-dimensional (1D) case, the fundamental concepts of NHSE, its minimal model, the physical meanings and consequences are elaborated in details. In particular, we discuss the NHSE enriched by lattice symmetries, which gives rise to unique non-Hermitian topological properties with revised bulk-boundary correspondence (BBC) and new definitions of topological invariants. Then we extend the discussions to two and higher dimensions, where dimensional surprises enable even more versatile NH.SE phenomena. Extensions of NHSE assisted with extra degrees of freedom such as long-range coupling, pseudospins, magnetism, non-linearity and crystal defects are also reviewed. This is followed by the contemporary experimental progress for NHSE. Finally, we provide the outlooks to possible future directions and developments.
Journal Article
Oral Supplementation with Hydrolyzed Fish Cartilage Improves the Morphological and Structural Characteristics of the Skin: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study
Collagen and its peptides are natural ingredients used in food supplements and nutricosmetics with the claim of providing benefits for skin health and beauty. In this context, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of oral supplementation with hydrolyzed fish cartilage for the improvement of chronological and photoaging-induced skin changes. A total of 46 healthy females aged 45 to 59 years were enrolled and divided into two groups: G1—placebo and G2—oral treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. Measurements of skin wrinkles, dermis echogenicity and thickness, and morphological and structural characteristics of the skin were performed in the nasolabial region of the face before and after a 90-day period of treatment using high-resolution imaging, ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy image analyses. A significant reduction in wrinkles and an increase of dermis echogenicity were observed after a 90-day period of treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage compared to the placebo and baseline values. In addition, reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) image analysis showed improved collagen morphology and reduced elastosis after treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. The present study showed the clinical benefits for the skin obtained with oral supplementation with a low dose of collagen peptides from hydrolyzed fish cartilage.
Journal Article
2‐Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine prevents UV‐induced skin darkening and delayed tanning in healthy subjects: A randomized controlled clinical study
Background Chronic nonextreme sun exposure induces two mechanisms of skin pigmentation, causing immediate darkening and delayed tanning. A new molecule, 2‐mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2‐MNG), has been shown in vitro to inhibit both immediate darkening and new melanin synthesis via covalent conjugation of the thiol group of 2‐MNG to melanin precursors. Objective To evaluate 2‐MNG in preventing both mechanisms in vivo. Methods In a randomized, intra‐individual and controlled study, 33 subjects with melanin‐rich skin were exposed to UV daylight on designated areas on the back and treated with a cosmetic formula containing 0.5% or 1% 2‐MNG alone or 0.5% 2‐MNG in association with lipohydroxy acid (LHA, 0.3%) plus Mexoryl‐SX (MSX, 1.5%). The respective vehicles were used as controls and 4‐n‐butyl‐resorcinol (4‐n‐BR, 2.5%) as a positive reference. Results 2‐MNG alone significantly reduced immediate darkening and inhibited new melanin production when compared with vehicle, with higher performance at 1% than at 0.5%. 2‐MNG at 0.5% in association with LHA and MSX showed significantly higher performance than 2‐MNG 0.5% alone. 2‐MNG at 0.5% and 1% showed significantly better performance than 4‐n‐BR. Conclusions 2‐MNG inhibited both UV‐induced skin pigmentation mechanisms in vivo. The association of 2‐MNG with LHA plus MSX showed the highest efficacy on melanin‐rich skin with pigmentation induced by UV exposure.
Journal Article