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Manus x machina : fashion in an age of technology
\"The catalogue that accompanies the 2016 Costume Institute exhibition \"Manus x Machina\" features exceptional fashions that reconcile traditional hand techniques with innovative machine technologies such as 3-D printing, laser cutting, circular knitting, computer modeling, bonding and laminating, and ultrasonic welding. Featuring 90 astonishing pieces, ranging from Gabrielle \"Coco\" Chanel's iconic tweed suit to Karl Lagerfeld's 3-D-printed version, and from Yves Saint Laurent's bird-of-paradise dress to Iris van Herpen's silicone adaptation - all beautifully photographed by Nicholas Alan Cope - this fascinating book is an exploration of both the artistry and the future of fashion. Interviews with Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen; Hussein Chalayan, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino; Nicolas Ghesquiلere of Louis Vuitton; Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler; Iris van Herpen; Christopher Kane; Karl Lagerfeld of Chanel; Miuccia Prada; and Gareth Pugh enhance this expansive and absorbing book.\" -- Publisher's description
Book
Field emission from laser cut CNT fibers and films
Field emission (FE) measurements are reported from carbon nanotube (CNT) fibers and laser-patterned free standing films fabricated by direct online condensation from a floating catalyst chemical vapor deposition reactor. Fiber and film cathodes showed stable emission in the 1–2 mA current (I) range at maximum cathode temperatures less than 1000 °C; film cathodes show localized heating at the triangular tips and higher maximum temperatures than the fibers. Fowler–Nordheim (FN) analysis indicated a change in the morphology of the emitters with increasing external electrical field (E
ext). Fiber cathode I–E
ext data are interpreted as FN emission from the fiber tip which is eventually limited by space-charge effects. At higher E
ext, FN emission from the fiber sidewall occurs. The single fiber cathode stopped emitting abruptly when field induced self-heating effects became significant. For CNT films, self-heating effects can destroy a portion of the film, but FE can still occur from other areas.
Journal Article
Phase-field simulation of tip splitting in dendritic growth of Fe-C alloy
Two types of dendrite tip splitting including dendrite orientation transition and twinned-like dendrites in Fe-C alloys were investigated by phase-field method. In equiaxed growth, the possible dendrite growth directions and the effect of supersaturation on tip splitting were discussed; the dendrite orientation transition was observed, and it was found that the orientation regions of anisotropy parameters were reduced from three to two with increasing the supersaturation, which was due to the effect of interfacial anisotropy controlled by the solute in front of S/L interface changing with the increase of supersaturation. In directional solidification, it was found that the twinned-like dendrites were formed with the fixed anisotropy couples and no seaweed dendrites were observed; these were concluded from the results of competition between process anisotropy and inherent anisotropy. The formation process of twinned-like dendrite was investigated by tip splitting phenomenon, which was related to the changes of dendrite tips growth velocity. Then, the critical speed of tips splitting and solute concentration of twinned-like dendrites were investigated, and a new type of microsegregation in Fe-C alloys was proposed to supplement the dendrite growth theories.
Journal Article
Improvement of Homogeneity and Aspect Ratio of Silicon Tips for Field Emission by Reactive-Ion Etching
The homogeneity of emitters is very important for the performance of field emission (FE) devices. Reactive-ion etching (RIE) and oxidation have significant influences on the geometry of silicon tips. The RIE influences mainly the anisotropy of the emitters. Pressure has a strong impact on the anisotropic factor. Reducing the pressure results in a higher anisotropy, but the etch rate is also lower. A longer time of etching compensates this effect. Furthermore an improvement of homogeneity was observed. The impact of uprating is quite low for the anisotropic factor, but significant for the homogeneity. At low power the height and undercut of the emitters are more constant over the whole wafer. The oxidation itself is very homogeneous and has no observable effect on further variation of the homogeneity. This modified fabrication process allows solving the problem of inhomogeneity of previous field emission arrays.
Journal Article
Machine vision using image data feedback for fault detection in complex deformable webs
Complex deformable webs like lace fabrics are amongst the most complicated materials to be inspected without any human intervention. The ability of such webs to deform easily, along with their complex patterns, presents a challenging problem for any machine vision system. Their pattern complexity makes it very difficult to use any global image processing or rule-based techniques for inspection, leaving direct comparison with a perfect prototype as the only choice available. Due to the elastic nature of the lace fabric, small distortions are characteristic of the product and are unavoidable. This renders sensitive direct comparison methods, such as those employed for the automatic inspection of printed circuit boards, prone to unacceptable false alarms. In the present work, the authors have exploited a mechatronic methodology, coupled with image processing techniques, to develop a high-speed inspection station for complex patterned lace webs.
Journal Article
Pulsed laser scalloping of decorative lace
Abstract
Decorative lace is knitted in webs typically 3 metres wide containing many smaller lace ribbons. These lace ribbons must be separated from the main web before sale to the garment manufacturers and retail trade. The separation process for decorative lace is traditionally carried out using scissors or a guided knife cutting system. The development of a machine vision guided laser cutting system at Loughborough University in the 1990s demonstrated that an economical fully automatic cutting system could replace the slow and expensive traditional methods. Incorrect positioning of the continuous wave laser beam focused spot can cause melting and subsequent hardening to the lace edge, which can feel harsh on the skin of the garment wearer and is a quality issue in some market sectors. In order to address this quality issue a high-accuracy pulsed laser cutting solution has been investigated, resulting in a fully automatic, vision guided, pulsed laser cutting process for lace in the form of a low-speed demonstration system. The lace produced on the pulsed laser system has been shown to have a significant improvement in edge quality over lace produced using the continuous wave laser cutting process. The edge quality produced by the pulsed laser cutting process approaches that of traditional mechanically cut lace with the potential for vastly increased output with lower operational costs.
Journal Article
Many like what they see in Glass House
Apr. 21--At 8 a.m. Easter Sunday, [Bonnie Spitze] and Ken Spitze wrote a contract for a condominium in Glass House, a 23-story tower under construction in the Central Platte Valley's Riverfront Park. Sales have gone so well that East West Partners, the project's developer, is planning to build a nearby project similar to Glass House, where prices range from $150,000 to $550,000, said [Chris Frampton].
Newsletter
Top incomes over the twentieth century : a contrast between Continental European and English-speaking countries
Based on a pioneering research programme on the evolution of top incomes, this volume brings together studies from 10 OECD countries. This rapidly growing field of economic research investigates the top segment of the income distribution by using data from income tax records over the past century. As well as describing the source data and methods employed, the authors also discuss the dramatic changes that have occurred at the top of the income scale throughout the 20th century. This fascinating study is the first of its kind to provide a comprehensive historic overview of top income distribution over the last century. It looks at why top incomes shares fell markedly in the first half of the 20th century and why, more recently, there has been a striking difference in the top income distribution between continental Europe and English-speaking OECD countries, like the UK, USA, and Australia. Written by the top names in the field, this seminal work provides rich pickings for those with an interest in inequality, development, the economic impact of war, taxation, economic history, and executive compensation.
eBook
Size effect in fracture of unidirectional composite plates
Fracture of notched, unidirectionally reinforced composite plates with well-bonded ductile matrices is typically preceded by the formation of long, discrete plastic shear zones aligned in the fiber direction. Onset of fracture is associated with a critical tension stress in a certain small process zone ahead of the notch tip; the critical stress is often equal to the tensile strength of the unnotched composite plate. Length of the shear zones can be estimated by plastic limit-analysis, and the local tension stress ahead of the notch found by superposition of the stress caused by remotely applied loads with the stress induced by the shear tractions in the plastic zone, which is shown to be dominated by a logarithmic singularity. In as-fabricated boron-aluminum composites, this fracture mechanism was analyzed and confirmed by numerous experiments (G.J. Dvorak, J. Zarzour and Y. Benveniste, Engineering Fracture Mechanics 42, 501–517, 1992). Since the notch tip field is not described by a stress intensity factor, experimental notched strength data cannot be interpreted in terms of a single material property, such as toughness. An alternative scaling procedure is outlined for prediction of notched strength of wide plates on the basis of data obtained from small size specimens.
Journal Article