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Looking at textiles : a guide to technical terms
A guide to the fundamentals of the materials and techniques used to create textiles.
Book
Textiles in the Neo-Assyrian Empire
This book brings together our present-day knowledge about textile terminology in the Akkadian language of the first-millennium BC. In fact, the progress in the study of the Assyrian dialect and its grammar and lexicon has shown the increasing importance of studying the language as well as cataloging and analysing the terminology of material culture in the documentation of the first world empire. The book analyses the terms for raw materials, textile procedures, and textile end products consumed in first-millennium BC Assyria. In addition, a new edition of a number of written records from Neo-Assyrian administrative archives completes the work. The book also contains a number of tables, a glossary with all the discussed terms, and a catalogue of illustrations. In light of the recent development of textile research in ancient languages, the book is aimed at providing scholars of Ancient Near Eastern studies and ancient textile studies with a comprehensive work on the Assyrian textiles.
eBook
Textiles in the Neo-Assyrian empire : a study of terminology
The book analyses the Assyrian textile terminology of the first millennium BC. Terms for raw materials, textile procedures, and textile end products consumed in first-millennium BC Assyria are classified according to their meaning and compared with other dialects of Akkadian as well as other Semitic languages. The study also discusses the management of textile production and consumption in Assyria by the state administration.
Book
Wrapping Matters: Unpacking the Materiality of Votive Animal Mummies
This study presents the first systematic investigation of ancient Egyptian votive animal mummy wrappings, based on the analysis of an extensive dataset encompassing specimens from various museum collections and archaeological contexts. The research addresses the long-standing neglect and fragmented understanding of the wrapping chaîne opératoire and aims to establish a consistent terminology, as the different stages of the wrapping sequence, bundle shapes, and decorative patterns have often been described vaguely. Through an interdisciplinary methodology that integrates photogrammetry, colorant identification, textile analysis, and experimental archaeology, the study explores the complexity of wrapping practices across their different stages. This approach offers new insights into the structural logic, raw material selection, and design conventions behind this production. The analysis reveals that the bundles exhibit standardized shapes and decorative patterns grounded in well-established visual criteria and manufacturing sequences. These findings demonstrate that the wrappings reflect a codified visual language and a high level of technical knowledge, deeply rooted in Egyptian tradition. The study also emphasizes its economic implications: the wrapping significantly enhanced the perceived value of the offering, becoming the primary element influencing both its material and symbolic worth. Ultimately, this work provides an interpretative framework for understanding wrapping as an essential medium of ritual sacralization for votive animal mummies, allowing the individual prayer to be effectively conveyed to the intended deity. Consequently, this research marks a significant step forward in advancing the technical, aesthetic, and ritual insight of wrapping practices, which preserve a wealth of still-overlooked information.
Journal Article
Eco-friendly Textile Architecture: A Review of Concepts, Terms and Sustainable Applications
Textile architecture has a long history, originating between 40.000 and 44.000 BCE. However, nowadays, it is considered a new discipline that uses fabrics, cutting-edge textiles, and textile materials to create amazing, attractive, and visually appealing lightweight, flexible, translucent structures. These structures are characterized by the innovation of textiles and advanced technologies, guaranteeing efficient functionality, aesthetics, durability, and sustainability. Some studies have focused on the structural and environmental behavior of textile structures, while other studies focused on the historical developments of these structures. However, few studies shed light on the concept of textile architecture and its related terms. Thus, this paper descriptively investigates the concept and definition of textile architecture, as well as its role as an eco-friendly and sustainable approach in the building practice that makes as little impact on the natural environment as possible. The research concludes that the terms “textile architecture,” “fabric architecture,” or “membrane architecture” are all synonyms, whereas the first one is the most commonly used term. Concerning the words “textile” and “fabric”, these terms are also synonyms and interchangeable in the field of language (linguistics). In terminology, the term “Textile” is broader than “Fabric”, where all fabrics are part of a textile, not the reverse. Besides, the research concluded some of the main characteristics that make textile materials eco-friendly, in terms of translucency, solar reflection, thermal insulation, recyclability, and adaptation and responsiveness to the environment and cultural contexts, as well as novel technological developments related to textile structures and materials that make them more efficient, saving energy, time, costs, with less impact on the environment.
Journal Article
Fabrication of Turkic böz ‘fabric’ in Japan and Korea
This paper represents a long-needed criticism of Miller (2005) which carried over the famous discussion of Turkic böz ‘fabric’ in the micro-‘Altaic’ context even further East to Japan and Korea. I demonstrate that Miller’s arguments fail on historical linguistics and philological grounds for all five putative ‘Altaic’ families due in large extent to the faulty nature of either his argumentation or data, or both.
Journal Article
Textile terminologies in the ancient Near East and Mediterranean from the third to the first millennia BC
Written sources from the ancient Near East and eastern Mediterranean, from the third to the first millennia BC, provide a wealth of terms for textiles. The twenty-two chapters in the present volume offer the first comprehensive survey of this important material, with special attention to evidence for significant interconnections in textile terminology among languages and cultures, across space and time. For example, the Greek word for a long shirt, khiton , ki-to in Linear B, derives from a Semitic root, ktn . But the same root in Akkadian means linen, in Old Assyrian a garment made of wool, and perhaps cotton, in many modern languages. These and numerous other instances underscore the need for detailed studies of both individual cases and the common threads that link them. This example illustrates on the one hand how connected some textiles terms are across time and space, but it also shows how very carefully we must conduct the etymological and terminological enquiry with constantly changing semantics as the common thread. The survey of textile terminologies in 22 chapters presented in this volume demonstrates the interconnections between languages and cultures via textiles.
eBook
Fibres and Textiles
This chapter contains sections titled:
Introduction
Fabric layers
Fabric degradation
Ballistic impacts
Sharp impacts
Blunt impacts
Tearing
Acknowledgements
Book Chapter
COLOUR PERCEPTION, DYESTUFFS, AND COLOUR TERMS IN TWELFTH-CENTURY FRENCH LITERATURE
Twelfth-century epics and romances knew only six or seven basic colors, including white, red, blue, yellow, green, black, and/or brown. On the other hand, twelfth- and thirteenth-century treatises, such as De complexionibus by Burgundio of Pisa, Liber physiognomie by Michael Scot, and De proprietatibus rerum by Bartholomaeus Anglicus, used complexion and the color of certain parts of the body (hair or nails) as a diagnostic of illness. Curta discusses the various perceptions of colors in the twelfth-century French literature.
Journal Article
Textile Terminologies and Classifications
The field of textiles is very diverse and through the examination of iconography and a variety of archaeological artifacts, it is possible to observe that this diversity existed very early. Nevertheless, in the ancient Near East and the Mediterranean area from the 3rd to the 1st millennium BC, most research has focused on loom-weaving with flax and sheep’s wool, leaving aside other materials and techniques. This paper will provide a tool to help interpret textile terms found in ancient documents, through an examination of the technical classifications undertaken within the last century. It will include the broad span of textile
Book Chapter