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This article explores the emergence of the trench coat through a range of First World War British press advertisements. The rush to khaki in 1914 drove many firms to employ the language of wartime economy in their promotions. Burberry was a case in point; the firm's images promoted protective clothing for harsh weather conditions but were novel enough to suggest that they could create active healthy bodies for the war effort. This article explores how new tailoring thrived in wartime Britain, owing to the official demand to clothe new army officers, who were recruited from a wide range of social classes. Rather than idealize men's bodies through the traditional symbols of class, Burberry updated the military body by combining established ideas of leisure with new concepts of war work. Their waterproof coats became synonymous with the war because the designs incorporated War Office requirements with traditional aspects of leisurewear. Nonetheless, its military features did not confine the trench coat to army use, and it became a popular garment during and after the war. Burberry resolved the contradictions of the wartime trade by offering practical, mass-produced clothing, which bore the marks of sporting leisure. The firm's modernizing approach was represented by the image of a man in a trench coat, a figure that embodied the militarizing of the home front during wartime.

In the process of apparel design, understanding consumers’ emotional demand is crucial to creating satisfactory garment styles. To solve the problem of the mismatch between consumers’ personalised needs and the design of trench coat styles. This paper focuses on women’s trench coats and proposes a style design research method that combines Quantification Theory I and Kansei Engineering. Initially, it employs the Semantic Difference Analysis Method to extract consumers’ emotional evaluations of trench coat samples. Using SPSS software, it analyses the emotional ratings and identifies key emotional factors, constructing a two-dimensional emotional distribution map for trench coat styles. Simultaneously, it analyses style characteristics to extract the main design elements. Building on this, it integrates Quantification Theory I and performs linear regression, predicting relationships between emotional factors and design elements and establishing a mathematical model. This model exhibits a high degree of fit between measured and predicted values and adheres to normal distribution requirements, demonstrating its effectiveness. Ultimately, the study validates the mathematical model through real consumer design cases, further confirming that it can effectively translate consumers’ emotional needs into trench coat design elements, thus providing significant insights and references for women’s trench coat style design.

Here, I scrutinize the recent efforts by the British firm Burberry to turn itself into a successful global luxury retailer from a number of angles, including those of marketing and cultural studies, as well as that of geography. I especially call attention to the apparent discrepancies between the manner in which the firm presents itself to its customers and the character of some of its recent profit making and upgrading strategies. Making use of three concepts from the literature—namely, the fetishism of the consumer, the fetishism of locality and competitive isomorphism—I then provide some critical insights into the internal workings of the firm; and, in the process, through the incorporation of ideas from marketing and cultural studies, contribute to the overall efforts by economic geographers to broaden the scope and reach of the field.

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