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This study opens a critical perspective on the slow death of socialism and the rebirth of capitalism in the world's most dynamic and populous country. Based on remarkable fieldwork and extensive interviews in Chinese textile, apparel, machinery, and household appliance factories, Against the Law finds a rising tide of labor unrest mostly hidden from the world's attention. Providing a broad political and economic analysis of this labor struggle together with fine-grained ethnographic detail, the book portrays the Chinese working class as workers' stories unfold in bankrupt state factories and global sweatshops, in crowded dormitories and remote villages, at street protests as well as in quiet disenchantment with the corrupt officialdom and the fledgling legal system.

The rapid evolution of artificial intelligence (AI) has significantly transformed industries, positioning the fashion sector as a critical area of study due to its mass production and pressing sustainability challenges. As the world’s largest apparel producer, China faces unique hurdles in terms of integrating AI technologies, highlighting the intersection of technological innovation and sustainability within this industry. In this context, this study aims to provide the initial exploratory correlations between AI adoption and open innovation from apparel manufacturing micro-, small-, and medium-size enterprises (MSMEs) managers’ perspectives, identifying knowledge absorptive capacity (KACAP)’s significant impacts through an integrated and extended TAM-TOE model. We conducted PLS-SEM to empirically validate the antecedents of AI adoption and its consequential effects on KACAP and open innovation by collecting information from 269 of the apparel manufacturing MSMEs’ top managers. The results show that the TAM-TOE structural model explains 60.7% of the variance in AI adoption, 47.4% in KACAP, and 55.4% in open innovation, which suggests that the model has good explanatory capacity, and that all these Q2 values indicate a sizeable predictive accuracy threshold. Drawing on the proposed model, the study has identified technological (e.g., perceived usefulness) and environmental factors (e.g., competitive pressure, market uncertainty, and government support and policy) that significantly impact AI adoption, while organizational factors (e.g., organizational readiness) directly impact KACAP, and environmental factors (e.g., competitive pressure, supplier involvement, and market uncertainty) directly impact open innovation. Subsequently, the AI construct is having a significant influence on MSMEs’ open innovation through KACAP. This fills existing theoretical gaps by linking AI technology to organizational innovation processes and demonstrates the mediating influence of KACAP. Also, the proposed model provides a foundation for future research by exploring the intersection of AI and innovation in similar industries.

The rapid advancement of artificial intelligence (AI) in the traditional-apparel-manufacturing sector is accelerating innovation and transformation, as cutting-edge AI applications have been increasingly integrated into the industry in recent years. While China has made outstanding achievements in applying AI in the apparel-manufacturing sector, the adoption of AI by traditional apparel manufacturers has progressed slowly. This study aims to develop a sustainable triple-layer framework of an AI-enabled innovation ecosystem from grounded required AI capabilities and barriers to AI adoption, thereby generating the conceptual propositions for micro, small, and medium-sized Chinese apparel manufacturing. Through semi-structured interviews conducted with 20 organizations, this study qualitatively analyzes interviews with representatives from enterprises, universities, and apparel associations to determine the required AI capabilities and barriers to adopting AI. It proposes 13 propositions within a theoretical framework that addresses barriers and aligns multi-actor collaborations, ultimately forming a sustainable AI-enabled Triple-Layer Innovation Ecosystem Framework. This novel framework reflects the dynamic interplay between external knowledge absorption capacity and a firm’s internal innovation capacity, providing a theoretical foundation for understanding and advancing AI-driven innovation in the apparel-manufacturing sector.

To better understand the reasons for the marketability of clothing now designed and sold in China and Japan, we asked Japanese and Chinese experts to evaluate Chinese and Japanese brands of clothing currently for sale in the Japanese market. The marketability of the Chinese apparel items in the Japanese market was evaluated by the Japanese experts. Five Japanese jackets were purchased from a department store in Tokyo, and ten items of Chinese clothing were purchased from a department store in Beijing. Five of the Chinese clothing samples were judged as impossible to sell in Japanese department stores primarily because the sewing quality was incompatible with Japanese requirements, the designs were outdated, and the materials were of low quality. However, the other five Chinese clothing samples received high evaluations of marketability in Japan. We found that Japanese experts focused on general design and sewing finish, while Chinese experts considered more general design points. Thus, our results indicate that clothing is evaluated differently in Japan and China. We conclude that it is necessary to consider the respective evaluation points used in each country as we pursue globalisation.

PurposeThis study aims to understand how product attributes (object stimuli), social influences (social-psychological stimuli) and internal factors (internal stimuli) contribute to Chinese Generation Z’s purchase intentions (responses) for new Chinese style apparel (NCSA) through NCSA attitudes (cognitive state) and cultural pride (affective state) based on the stimulus-organism-response (S-O-R) model.Design/methodology/approachData were collected from 989 respondents aged between 18 and 29 years through self-administrated questionnaires via a professional survey panel, Credamo, in China. Data were analyzed using structural equation modeling.FindingsResults showed that among the seven stimuli, NCSA’s design, online social networking communities, cultural identity and personal norms significantly influenced Generation Z’s purchase intentions through both NCSA attitudes and cultural pride. Further, NCSA’s cultural connotations and celebrity influences elicited purchase intentions merely through the affective state – cultural pride. In contrast, NCSA’s functionality did not have a significant influence on NCSA attitudes and adversely affected cultural pride.Originality/valueThis study fills the research gap and extends the application of the S-O-R model within the NCSA context. The findings of this study shed light on the practical implications for marketers, brands and policymakers with regard to a better understanding of Chinese Generation Z’s NCSA consumption.

There is much literature on problems pertaining to information systems localization in Chinese companies, yet few had been on how companies solve these problems. This paper presents a case study that uses the technology, organization, and environment (TOE) framework to explain the failure of a Chinese apparel company’s initial enterprise resource planning (ERP) effort and the success of its subsequent endeavor. Using the TOE framework, this paper sheds light on issues that inflict Chinese companies in their informationization process and what can be done to increase the possibilities of system success.

Purpose Social media and sustainability are changing Chinese consumers’ consumption behavior in notable ways. Few apparel industry sustainability efforts are enforced or well known in China. As China operates its own social media sites, it is necessary to study Chinese social media, rather than Western types, in order to understand its influence on Chinese consumer behavior with regard to sustainability. By extending the theory of reasoned action (TRA) and the prototype willingness model, the purpose of this paper is to investigate how Chinese consumers were taught their environmentally sustainable apparel (ESA) consumption behavior through social media, and also how the influence of peers affected their purchase intentions. Design/methodology/approach A total of 238 survey responses were collected and analyzed from a Chinese research firm in 2016. In accord with the study objectives, an exploratory factor analysis was first conducted, and then a two-step analysis of a structural equation model was employed for hypothesis testing. To test the significance of hypothesized mediated effects, a bootstrap procedure with 2,000 bootstrap samples from the original data was used to compute bias-corrected 95% CI for indirect effects. Moreover, hierarchical regressions were demonstrated to verify the unique contribution of social media influence. Findings The study findings support the previous literature that indicated positive attitudes toward environmentally sustainable purchasing behavior increased as Chinese consumers learned about social and environmental issues. Also, results of the analysis revealed that Chinese consumers’ engagement with social media and their peers were important social influences that were directly tied to increasing sustainable apparel purchase intentions. Originality/value By extending two grand theories of the prototype willingness model theory and the TRA, this study underlines a novel link between the influence of social media and ESA purchase intentions among Chinese consumers. Results are valuable in a global context as it is one of only a few studies to explore Chinese consumers’ purchase intentions of ESA through an exclusive social media platform – WeChat – in China.

Lex Lu argues in Appearance Politics that crafting an appealing and powerful outward image has long been an essential political instrument in China. Its traces may be found in historical records, imperial portraits, physiognomic prognostications, photographs, posters, statues, and digital images. Employing rare archival materials from Beijing, Shanghai, and Nanjing, Lu tells the story of these political maneuverings. We learn the ways in which political actors and their agents designed their images, and we observe the shifting standards of male beauty that guided their decisions. Appearance Politics examines five case studies: the usurpation of Ming Prince Zhu Di; the rise of Manchu masculinity and its mixed standards of Han Chinese and Manchu beauty at the Yongzheng court; the use of modern photography and Western male beauty standards at the turn of the twentieth century; the making of the Republican founding father Sun Yat-sen; and the creation of visual templates of Mao Zedong. Lu's rich empirical study counters systematic stereotypical descriptions of Chinese male leadership embedded in Western media and scholarship.

New horizons are opening for Africa, with a growing number of Chinese andIndian businesses fostering its integration into advanced markets. However,significant imbalances will have to be addressed on both sides of the equation to support long-term growth.