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ZnO is one of the most widely used inorganic sunscreens, owing to its fine particle size and UV light shielding capability. However, powders at nanosizes can be toxic and cause adverse effects. The development of non-nanosized particles has been slow. The present work investigated synthesis methods of non-nanosized ZnO particles for ultraviolet protection application. By altering the starting material, KOH concentration, and input speed, the ZnO particles can be obtained in different forms, including needle type, planar type, and vertical wall type. Cosmetic samples were made by mixing different ratios of synthesized powders. The physical properties and the UV blockage efficacy of different samples were evaluated using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), particle size analyzer (PSA), and ultraviolet/visible (UV/Vis) spectrometer. The samples with 1:1 ratio of needle-type ZnO and vertical wall-type ZnO exhibited superior light blocking effect owing to improved dispersibility and prevention of particle agglomeration. The 1:1 mixed sample also complied with the European nanomaterials regulation due to the absence of nanosized particles. With superior UV protection in the UVA and UVB regions, the 1:1 mixed powder showed potential to be used as a main ingredient in UV protection cosmetics.

In the skin care field, bacterial nanocellulose (BNC), a versatile polysaccharide produced by non-pathogenic acetic acid bacteria, has received increased attention as a promising candidate to replace synthetic polymers (e.g., nylon, polyethylene, polyacrylamides) commonly used in cosmetics. The applicability of BNC in cosmetics has been mainly investigated as a carrier of active ingredients or as a structuring agent of cosmetic formulations. However, with the sustainability issues that are underway in the highly innovative cosmetic industry and with the growth prospects for the market of bio-based products, a much more prominent role is envisioned for BNC in this field. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the most recent (last 5 years) and relevant developments and challenges in the research of BNC applied to cosmetic, aiming at inspiring future research to go beyond in the applicability of this exceptional biotechnological material in such a promising area.

Introduction Real‐world experience using an allograft adipose matrix (AAM) (Renuva) is presented as a series of seven cases demonstrating successful use of the matrix by nine expert cosmetic physicians across the United States. AAM is donated tissue that is aseptically processed without terminal irradiation into a transplantable adipose matrix that functions as a natural, versatile, and nonimmunogenic cushioning and volume‐restoring tissue. When injected, the adipose matrix is replaced with the body's own fat cells and provides the cellular scaffold required for volume restoration and retention. Methods Nine expert dermatologists were selected to share and discuss real‐world patient cases using AAM. The experts discussed a variety of cases and selected 7 cases that demonstrated successful, novel use of AAM to present in this manuscript. Results Experts agreed that the novel AAM is an easy‐to‐use, effective, and safe alternative to traditional fillers and fat grafting. Conclusion The use of the AAM is recommended for the face, hands, and other adipose tissue‐containing parts of the body. The presented real‐world cases provide guidance on how to identify ideal candidates to ensure optimal volume restoration results.

The purpose of this study is to develop a fundamental material for cosmetics by encapsulating the extract obtained from Dioscorea quinqueloba using chitosan, a natural material. Active compounds were extracted using ethanol from Dioscorea quinqueloba produced in Andong, South Korea. These compounds were encapsulated in mucin extracted from Dioscorea quinqueloba and chitosan derived from cuttlefish bones to form microcapsules. The encapsulation process involves the formation of a W/O emulsion, followed by crosslinking with glutaraldehyde. The resulting microcapsules were examined by scanning electron microscopy, which revealed spherical structures with an average size ranging from 890 to 1130 nm. The toxicity, antioxidant activity, and anti-aging properties of these microcapsules were assessed to evaluate their potential use in cosmetic formulations. The microcapsules showed no toxicity at the concentrations used, and their antioxidant and anti-aging activities were significantly higher than those of the control group. These findings suggest that microcapsules have strong potential as components in cosmetic compositions.

The industrial processing of fish for food purposes also generates a considerable number of by-products such as viscera, bones, scales, and skin. From a value-added perspective, fish by-products can act also as raw materials, especially because of their collagen content (particularly in fish skin). Interestingly, the potential of marine collagen for cosmetic applications is enormous and, remarkably, the extraction of this protein from fish skins has been established for different species. Using this approach, we investigated the integration of marine collagen (COLRp_I) extracted from the skin of the Greenland halibut as an active ingredient in a cosmetic hydrogel formulation. In this study, extracts of marine collagen at concentrations up to 10 mg/mL showed a non-cytotoxic effect when cultured with fibroblast cells for 3 days. In addition, marine collagen extract, when incorporated into a cosmetic hydrogel formulation, met criterion A of ISO 11930:2019 regarding the efficacy of the preservative system (challenge test). In addition, the cosmetic formulations based on marine collagen at dosages of 0.1, 0.25 and 0.5% were tested in a clinical study on the skin of the forearms of 23 healthy volunteers, showing a sightly hydration effect, suggesting its potential for beauty applications. Moreover, this work illustrates that the circular economy concept applied to the fish processing industry can represent important benefits, at innovation, environmental and economic levels.

Green or sustainable cosmetics are products that contain natural ingredients obtained from renewable raw materials. Fruit peels represent a sustainable source of bioactive compounds. Polyphenols, e.g., flavonoids, have the ability to scavenge free radicals; thus they exhibit antioxidant activity. Recently, natural antioxidants have been in the limelight as being safe, effective, and versatile. In this study, antioxidant effects and the sun protection ability of apple (Malus domestica), banana (Musa sapientum), and orange (Citrus reticulata) peel extracts were evaluated in skincare formulations. The extraction of phenolic compounds was performed in three different solvents, i.e., ethanol, methanol, and acetone. Total phenolic contents, antioxidant activity, and sun protection factor were determined for the fruit peel extracts. The acetone extract of apple and ethanol extract of banana peels contained polyphenols, i.e., 24.3 ± 1.5 and 26.7 ± 0.6 mg GAE per gram of the extracts, respectively. These extracts showed DPPH radical scavenging activity and were incorporated into oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions. All the formulated samples were found to be stable when subjected to centrifuging and thermal stress. Antioxidant activities of cream samples were above 80%, and the sun protection factor was above 15. The results have confirmed the applications of fruit peel waste in the formulation of photostable, antioxidant, and sun screen formulations. These creams would help to maintain skin health, protect it from UV radiation, and reduce the aging effect. Thus, fruit peel waste could present an ecofriendly and sustainable source of natural antioxidants for the personal care industry.

Extreme exposure of skin to Ultraviolet A (UVA)-radiation may induce a dysregulated production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) which can interact with cellular biomolecules leading to oxidative stress, inflammation, DNA damage, and alteration of cellular molecular pathways, responsible for skin photoaging, hyperplasia, erythema, and cancer. For these reasons, the use of dietary natural bioactive compounds with remarkable antioxidant activity could be a strategic tool to counteract these UVA-radiation-caused deleterious effects. Thus, the purpose of the present work was to test the efficacy of strawberry (50 μg/mL)-based formulations supplemented with Coenzyme Q10 (100 μg/mL) and sun protection factor 10 in human dermal fibroblasts irradiated with UVA-radiation. The apoptosis rate, the amount of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, the expression of proteins involved in antioxidant and inflammatory response, and mitochondrial functionality were evaluated. The results showed that the synergic topical use of strawberry and Coenzyme Q10 provided a significant (p < 0.05) photoprotective effect, reducing cell death and ROS, increasing antioxidant defense, lowering inflammatory markers, and improving mitochondrial functionality. The obtained results suggest the use of strawberry-based formulations as an innovative, natural, and useful tool for the prevention of UVA exposure-induced skin diseases in order to decrease or substitute the amount of synthetic sunscreen agents.

Background Individual B vitamins have many favorable effects on the skin and are common cosmetic ingredients. However, their formulation is demanding due to stability issues, which consequently affect the products’ quality. Aims We aimed to determine the quality (labeling accuracy, content determination, and content‐related quality control) and stability under long‐term and accelerated storage conditions of a representative sample of commercial cosmetics containing the most common B vitamins – nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin. Methods Cyanocobalamin was determined by a previously published stability‐indicating HPLC– diode array detector (DAD) method for the simultaneous determination of all hydrophilic vitamins. This method was additionally simplified and adjusted for the time‐effective analysis of nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, and pyridoxine. Both methods were properly validated. Results All labeled B vitamins were present in the 36 tested products, mostly in contents, reported effective on the skin. Thus, a straightforward correlation between vitamin contents and product prices were not observed. The content‐related quality control of eight products, which quantitively specify their content, revealed significantly lower nicotinamide contents (47% and 57%) in two products and appropriate or higher nicotinamide (102%–112%) and dexpanthenol (100%–104%) contents than declared in the remaining products. The 6‐month long‐term and accelerated stability studies demonstrated the products’ physical stability, but also revealed dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin degradation, while nicotinamide was mostly stable in the tested products. Conclusions The obtained results provide an inside into the quality of commercial vitamin B cosmetics and highlight the importance of stability testing in the formulation of quality, efficient, and safe cosmetics.

Background The development of effective cosmetic products for the reduction of the signs of skin aging is a complex process which requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the skin layers. Aim To evaluate the tolerance and antiaging clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine, and niacinamide. Methods Clinical efficacy was determined by subjective and instrumental analyses of collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, by three‐dimensional imaging analysis of suborbital edema, and by analysis of skin hydration and sebum content by biophysical techniques—Corneometer® and Sebumeter®. Results The studied formulation was safe and effective for the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis and skin moisturizing and by reducing facial blemishes, swelling, and oiliness. A preclinical exploratory approach using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures agreed with the observed antiaging effects, identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increased synthesis of type I procollagen, and regulation of the epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin. Conclusions The skin benefits obtained resulted from the combination of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation‐based delivery system, which favors the solubility, safety, efficacy, and bioavailability of the preparation to the skin.

Cosmetics have been extremely popular throughout history and continue to be so today. Cosmetic and personal care products, including toothpaste, shampoo, lotions, and makeup, are typically made with petroleum-based surfactants. Currently, there is an increasing demand to enhance the sustainability of surface-active compounds in dermal formulations. Biosurfactants, derived from living cells, are considered more environmentally friendly than synthetic surfactants. Thus, the use of biosurfactants is a promising strategy for formulating more environmentally friendly and sustainable dermal products. Biosurfactants have the potential to replace chemical surface-active agents in the cosmetic sector due to their multifunctional qualities, such as foaming, emulsifying, and skin-moisturizing activities.In this study, two glycolipopeptide biosurfactants derived from Lactiplantibacillus plantarum OL5 were used as stabilizing factors in oil-in-water emulsions in the presence of coconut oils. Both biosurfactants increased emulsion stability, particularly in the 1:3 ratio, dispersion, and droplet size. Moreover, the cytotoxicity of the two Lactiplantibacillus plantarum biosurfactants was assessed on B lymphocytes and MCF-7 cells. Overall, the results gathered herein are very promising for the development of new green cosmetic formulations.