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The maximum significant wave height ( H s m a x ) induced by a tropical cyclone (TC) can be estimated from an empirical fetch formula using the TC’s size, maximum wind speed, and translation speed, in which larger, stronger, and faster-moving TCs generally have higher the H s m a x . In the formula, the radius of maximum wind (RMW) has been widely used as the TC size parameter under the assumption that H s m a x is mainly generated by strong winds near the RMW. This study investigates whether RMW is the optimal parameter for determining TC-induced H s m a x through extensive wave model simulations for North Atlantic hurricanes from 1988–2017. The correlation analysis between the estimated H s m a x and TC size parameters revealed that the radius of the 34-kt wind speed (R34, r = 0.84–0.95) was much higher than the widely used RMW ( r = 0.33–0.58), which suggests that R34 is a more important TC size parameter for determining TC-induced H s m a x than RMW. This result can be explained by the fact that R34 showed a significantly higher correlation ( r = 0.96) than RMW ( r = 0.31) with cumulative TC wind speeds, which are closely related to H s m a x . These findings also indicate that the TC-induced H s m a x is more affected by the region containing moderately strong winds outside the TC than by the region of maximum wind speed near the RMW. Our paper provides additional insight into the mechanisms by which extreme wave heights, which cause severe damage during TC passage, occur.

The wave climate is highly variable temporally and spatially, depending mainly on the atmospheric conditions and on fetch extensions. Wave climate is one of the main causes of coastal erosion processes, together with anthropogenic pressure and with coastal and river sedimentary balance. Therefore, a detailed spatial and temporal knowledge of wave climate is very important in managing coastal areas and in planning coastal defense works. This paper describes an analysis of the wave climate carried out along the Calabrian coasts in over 50 areas, each of them covering an average of 15 km of coastline. For each area, over 40 years of wave data were analyzed to calculate over 20 parameters, representative of annual and seasonal average and maximum wave conditions. The large number of areas is related to the geomorphological and climatic complexity of Calabria. This analysis mainly highlighted that the two Ionian and Tyrrhenian coasts are very different from the wave climate point of view. Indeed, the Ionian coast is heavier in ordinary wave conditions, while the Tyrrhenian coast is heavier in extreme wave conditions.

Observations from Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) moored buoys off the coast of Florida reveal tidally driven wave–current interactions that modify significant wave heights by up to 25% and shift peak periods by up to a second. A case study at Fernandina Beach, Florida, shows surface waves steepening on following tidal currents and becoming less steep on opposing tidal currents, with the largest modulations occurring in the long-period swell band. To better understand tidal modulations as a function of the phase of the tide, we use simplified analytical and numerical solutions to the equations of geometrical optics and conservation of wave action under the assumption of a one-dimensional tide acting as a progressive shallow-water wave. The theoretical frameworks allow us to identify parameters that characterize the magnitude of variation in surface waves due to tidally induced currents and changes in water depth. We compute modulations to the omnidirectional and directional wave spectrum (between 0.05 and 0.15 Hz), as well as characteristic bulk parameters such as significant wave height and peak period. The theory is corroborated using directional wave and surface current observations from the Fernandina Beach CDIP station (located in water of average depth of 16 m). We find that the numerical results reproduce the observed wave modulations due to tidal currents and changes in water depth. Specifically, surface waves traveling in the direction of the tide are strongly modulated, and the relative speeds between the tide and surface waves set the sign and magnitude of these modulations. Given knowledge of tidal currents, water-depth variations, and wave climatology, theoretical and numerical predictions may be used to provide both statistical and instantaneous estimates of wave-height variations due to tides. Because operational forecasts and nowcasts do not routinely include tides or currents, these findings can help to accurately represent nearshore surface wave variability.

Air–sea exchange in high winds is one of the most important but poorly represented processes in tropical cyclone (TC) prediction models. Effects of sea spray on air–sea heat fluxes in TCs are particularly difficult to model due to complex sea states and lack of observations in extreme wind and wave conditions. This study introduces a new sea-state-dependent air–sea heat flux parameterization with spray, which is developed using the Unified Wave Interface–Coupled Model (UWIN-CM). Impacts of spray on air–sea heat fluxes are investigated across a wide range of winds, waves, and atmospheric and ocean conditions in five TCs of various sizes and intensities. Spray generation with variable size distribution is explicitly represented by surface wave properties such as wave dissipation, significant wave height, and dominant phase speed, which may be uncorrelated with local winds. The sea-state-dependent spray mass flux is substantially different than a wind-dependent flux, especially when wave shoaling occurs with enhanced wave dissipation near the coast during TC landfall. Spray increases the air–sea enthalpy flux near the radius of maximum wind (RMW) by approximately 5%–20% when mean 10-m wind speed at the RMW reaches 40–50 m s −1 . These values can be amplified significantly by coastal wave shoaling. Spray latent heat fluxes may be dampened in the eyewall due to high saturation ratio, and they consistently produce a moistening and cooling effect outside the eyewall. Spray strongly modifies the total sensible heat flux and can cause either a warming or cooling effect at the RMW depending on eyewall saturation ratio.

A climatology of the wind waves in the Mediterranean Sea is presented. The climate patterns, their spatio-temporal variability and change are based on a 40-year (1980–2019) wave hindcast, obtained by combining the ERA5 reanalysis wind forcing with the state-of-the-art WAVEWATCH III spectral wave model and verified against satellite altimetry. Results are presented for the typical (50th percentile) and extreme (99th percentile) significant wave height and, for the first time at the regional Mediterranean Sea scale, for the typical and extreme expected maximum individual wave height of sea states. The climate variability of wind waves is evaluated at seasonal scale by proposing and adopting a definition of seasons for the Mediterranean Sea states that is based on the satellite altimetry wave observations of stormy (winter) and calm (summer) months. The results, initially presented for the four seasons and then for winter and summer only, show the regions of the basin where largest waves occur and those with the largest temporal variability. A possible relationship with the atmospheric parameter anomalies and with teleconnection patterns (through climate indices) that motivates such variability is investigated, with results suggesting that the Scandinavian index variability is the most correlated to the Mediterranean Sea wind-wave variability, especially for typical winter sea states. Finally, a trend analysis shows that the Mediterranean Sea typical and extreme significant and maximum individual wave heights are decreasing during summer and increasing during winter.

Recent studies point out the importance of northerly winds and waves in the Arabian Sea, especially those due to shamal and makran events in addition to the northeast monsoon system. We have analyzed climatology and trends of northerly maximum wind speed and significant wave height (Hs) in the Arabian Sea and the connected marginal seas, Arabian/Persian Gulf and the Red Sea, during non-monsoon season derived from 40 years of ERA5 wind and wave data, and estimated monthly, annual and decadal extreme climate and their trends. The study brings out an increasing trend in the northerly maximum wind speed (0.8–1.2 cm/s/year) and Hs (0.42–0.88 cm/year) in the southern and central Arabian Sea, which is consistent with the global trend in extreme wind speed and Hs. The northern Arabian Sea including the Sea of Oman exhibits significant decreasing trend in northerly maximum wind speed (− 1.4 cm/s/year) and Hs (− 0.67 cm/year), while the Gulf and the Red Sea exhibit sectorial contrasting trend, indicating the dominance of localized effects in modifying the regional climate. Distinct features identified in the climate and trends of northerly winds and waves are further discussed.

Spectral bandwidth is a relevant parameter of water wave evolution and is commonly used to represent the number of wave components involved in wave—wave interactions. However, whether these two parameters are equivalent is an open question. Following the high-order spectral method and taking the weakly modulated Stokes wave train as the initial condition, the relationship between the spectral bandwidth and the number of wave components is investigated in this work. The results showed that the number of wave components can vary with the same spectral bandwidth and that distinct wave profiles emerge from different numbers of wave components. With a new definition of significant wave components, the characteristics of this parameter in the long-time wave evolution are discussed, along with its relationship with common parameters, including the wave surface maximum and the wave height. The results reveal that the wave surface evolution trend of different numbers of significant wave components ( N s ) is the same from a holistic perspective, while the difference between them also exists, mainly in locations where extreme waves occur. Furthermore, there is a negative correlation between r ( a j / a 0 ) and wave surface maximum ( η max / a 0 ) and wave height ( H max and H s ). The evolution trends of the relative errors (RE) of η max / a 0 , H max , and H s of different N s show the periodic recurrence of modulation and demodulation in the early stage when the Benjamin—Feir instability is dominated. The difference is that in the later stage, the RE of η max / a 0 and H max is chaotic and irregular, while those of H s gradually stabilize near an equilibrium value. Furthermore, we discuss the relationship between the mean relative error (MRE) and r . For η max / a 0 , MRE and r show a logarithmic relationship, while for H max and H s , a quadratic relationship exists between them. Therefore, the choice of N s is also important for extreme waves and is particularly meaningful for wave generation experiments in the wave flume.

EM-APEX floats as autonomous vehicles have been used for profiling temperature, salinity, and current velocity for more than a decade. In the traditional method for processing horizontal current velocity from float measurements, signals of surface wave motion are removed as residuals. Here, a new data processing method is proposed for deriving the horizontal velocity of surface waves at the floats. Combined with the vertical acceleration measurements of waves, surface wave directional spectra E ( f , θ ) can be computed. This method is applied to the float measurements on the right of Typhoon Megi’s 2010 track. At 0.6 days before the passage of Megi’s eye to the floats, the fast-propagating swell may affect wind waves forced by the local storm wind. When the storm moves closer to the floats, the increasing wind speed and decreasing angle between wind and dominant wave direction may enhance the wind forcing and form a monomodal spectrum E ( f ). The peak frequency f p ~ 0.08 Hz and significant wave height > 10 m are found near the eyewall. After the passage of the eye to the floats, f p increases to >0.1 Hz. Although E ( f ) still has a single spectral peak at the rear-right quadrant of Megi, E ( f , θ ) at frequencies from 0.08 to 0.12 Hz has waves propagating in three different directions as a trimodal spectrum, partially due to the swell propagating from the rear-left quadrant. Enhancing the capability of EM-APEX floats to observe wave spectra is critical for exploring the roles of surface waves in the upper ocean dynamics in the future.

Based on wave measurements lasting three and a half years, typhoon wave characteristics in a lagoon of the South China Sea are discussed in this paper. According to the upper boundaries of wind speed and significant wave height H s , the maximum wave height has a similar rate of change as the maximum wind speed. The peak frequencies decrease in the approaching stage and are concentrated with an average of 0.1415 Hz in the leaving stage. The distributions of the wind and wave directions indicate that the local wind waves and the waves from the open sea propagated to the site in the approaching and leaving stages, respectively. Wind waves generated inside the lagoon are fetch-trapped, and the spectra can be described by αf (−4) or βk (−2.5) when f > f p . In addition, the measurements show that the nondimensional maximum spectrum can be estimated by the nondimensional fetch. The spectra of the waves from the open sea can be described by . Parameters a and c are determined by the nondimensional peak frequency. In addition, it is found that the peak energy density S ( f p ) is a linear function of for all waves.

Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) is a next-generation radar altimeter that offers high resolution, wide swath, imaging capabilities. It has provided free public data worldwide since December 2023. This paper aims to preliminarily analyze the detection capabilities of the Ka-band radar interferometer (KaRIn) and Nadir altimeter (NALT), which are carried out by SWOT for internal solitary waves (ISWs), and to gather other remote sensing images to validate SWOT observations. KaRIn effectively detects ISW surface features and generates surface height variation maps reflecting the modulations induced by ISWs. However, its swath width does not completely cover the entire wave packet, and the resolution of L2/L3 level products (about 2 km) cannot be used to identify ISWs with smaller wavelengths. Additionally, significant wave height (SWH) images exhibit blocky structures that are not suitable for ISW studies; sea surface height anomaly (SSHA) images display systematic left-right banding. We optimize this imbalance using detrending methods; however, more precise treatment should commence with L1-level data. Quantitative analysis based on L3-level SSHA data indicates that the average SSHA variation induced by ISWs ranges from 10 cm to 20 cm. NALTs disturbed by ISWs record unusually elevated SWH and SSHA values, rendering the data unsuitable for analysis and necessitating targeted corrections in future retracking algorithms. For the normalized radar cross section, Ku-band and four-parameter maximum likelihood estimation retracking demonstrated greater sensitivity to minor changes in the sea surface, making them more suitable for ISW detection. In conclusion, SWOT demonstrates outstanding capabilities in ISW detection, significantly advancing research on the modulation of the sea surface by ISWs and remote sensing imaging mechanisms.