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PurposeThe purpose of this study is to propose the parametric sleeve patternmaking method that enables mass customization.Design/methodology/approachTo propose the parametric sleeve patternmaking method, the required components for parametrization were identified, and required elements for the application of mass customization were extracted as an objective sleeve pattern.FindingsOverall drafting processes, the formulas for lines and points, the values of notches, and the value of the ease of ESMOD method, the angles and the formulas for darts of Müller’s method, and the size of Sleeve Opening and the way of pattern control of Secoli’s method were combined in the new method proposed.Research limitations/implicationsFurther study requires a comprehensive analysis of the proposed sleeve patternmaking method and developing the parametric sleeve pattern CAD for mass customization to utilize and commercialize the parametric sleeve patternmaking method.Practical implicationsThe parametric sleeve patternmaking method is suitable for mass customization. Especially, even beginners would apply the parametric sleeve patternmaking method proposed in this study to any type of bodice pattern without confusion.Originality/valueThe parametric sleeve patternmaking method proposed is simple and delivers the lines and the calculated values for the sleeve patternmaking clearly and objectively rather than the patterner’s intuition does.

Objective: This study examines how intergenerational coresidence modifies the association between women's education and their household decision-making power in China. Background: Past research on how married women's education increases their decision-making power at home has focused primarily on nuclear families. This article extends prior research by examining how this association varies by household structure. It compares women living with their husbands with those living with both their husbands and parents-in-law. Method: This article used data from the China Family Panel Studies in 2010 and 2014. It employed marginal structural models to address the concern that certain characteristics selecting women of less power into coresidence with their parents-in-law may be endogenous to women's education. Results: In nuclear households, women with a higher level of education have a higher probability of having the final say on household decisions. In multigenerational households, however, where women live with their parents-in-law, a higher level of education of women is not associated with an increase in women's decision-making power. Conclusion: Coresidence with husbands' parents may undermine the effect of women's education on their household decision-making power.

Efficient manufacturing of tooling and patterns is an essential part of a good foundry process. Traditional patternmaking methods have been honed to almost perfection during the years. Additive manufacturing has been growing as an industry and presents many new possibilities for the foundry industry. However, many additive manufacturing technologies do not currently provide usable sizes and scales for foundries to properly use. Fused granular fabrication (FGF) in conjunction with finish machining might provide an answer to this issue, with printing volumes and speeds many times of those compared to filament-based fused deposition modeling printing. In this work, some traditional patternmaking materials are compared to a FGF manufactured one based on polylactic acid and cellulose blend, and their characteristics are discussed. 3D scanning of as-printed geometry shows variations inherent to material extrusion methods, while the final machined state shows comparable results to traditional polyurethane model material. The combination of high-volume material extrusion with machining to final dimensions might allow more utilization of additive manufacturing in patternmaking, especially when combined with high-performance polymer materials.

Based on 3D body scanning, this study developed the corresponding measurement-based patternmaking (CMP) method for leggings that could systematically provide an excellent fit and control tightness for different body parts. The CMP method for leggings was qualitatively validated by comparing the fit suitability of the produced leggings prototypes through a wear test. The results suggest that the CMP method is an option to design leggings with outstanding suitability in terms of appearance satisfaction, size satisfaction, compression satisfaction, usefulness in movement, ease of movement, ease in donning and doffing for different body parts. In particular, the graduated application percentage (GAP) provided an advantage in usefulness in movement, while the fixed application percentage (FAP) showed an advantage in ease in donning and doffing. As such, this study suggests selecting the CMP method of the application percentage (AP) depending on the purpose of use. This study demonstrated that the proposed method ensured validity in directly implementing a leggings pattern with 3D body scanning and body measurement alone.

PurposeThe authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices.Design/methodology/approachTargeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice.FindingsThe appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern.Originality/valueIt was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.

The dairy sector is vital to India's rural economy, with Gujarat emerging as a leading state in milk production. This study explores the contributions of women in dairy farming in the Navsari district of South Gujarat, examining their experiences, decision-making roles, and economic influence. Conducted across eight villages, the research involved structured interviews with 160 women dairy farmers. The findings indicate that these women generally have moderate experience in the field and manage medium-sized herds. Their animal housing is mostly kuccha or semi-pukka, and they earn between Rs. 10,000 and Rs. 30,000 monthly from dairy-related activities. Notably, women are actively involved in decision-making, influencing the volume of milk sold versus consumed at home, preparing dairy products, and overseeing animal care.Their contributions extend beyond daily operations to influence both household and market dynamics. The study highlights the essential role of women in driving the dairy sector's productivity and economic benefits. However, their substantial contributions and active participation in decision-making processes necessitate targeted policies and interventions to further support and empower them. Recommendations include enhancing access to resources, increasing decision-making power, and strengthening cooperative structures. These measures are crucial for improving the livelihoods of women dairy farmers and ensuring the sustained growth and efficiency of the dairy sector in Gujarat.

The implementation of standardized grading production practices within the mass market has been challenging for scholars experimenting with zero-waste apparel design. The purpose of this research was to test the efficacy of the Carrico Zero-waste Banded Grading (CZWBG) technique, which utilizes bands inserted in strategic locations as a method of grading zero-waste patterns across various consumer categories. An additional purpose was to evaluate the ways in which this grading approach affected the aesthetic outcomes of garments across a size run, and to determine whether this method affected the overall design process of the designers involved. Through experimental research design, six design scholars successfully tested and incorporated the CZWBG technique in zero-waste one or two-piece apparel item(s), subsequently developing three sizes in an industry-specified size range for their product category. Each design was cut from zero-waste patterns in a mid-range size and graded up and down one–two sizes using an industry-standardized grading scale. The grading was achieved by varying the widths and lengths of strategically inserted bands of fabric or trim. The designers utilized various grading methods, textiles, pattern development methods, and size runs, showing that the CZWBG technique can successfully be applied across multiple consumer categories in the apparel industry.

Craft is currently experiencing an academic and popular revival, as evidenced by increasing interest in ‘makers’ and artisanal practices, both within and beyond design history. Yet, in this moment of craft’s resurgence, some aspects are regularly overlooked. Industrial craft in manufacturing, for instance, is a field ripe for closer analysis. Engineering patternmaking is an industrial craft that remains almost invisible in design history, despite the design-related nature of patternmaking, and its centrality to many industrial manufacturing processes. Drawing on oral histories with Australian patternmakers, this article emphasizes that patternmaking is both a manual and intellectual practice that requires thorough knowledge of drawing, materials, geometry, three-dimensional visuality and manufacturing processes planning. Accordingly, I argue that patternmakers possess and enact a specific type of design knowledge, a form of expertise that has thus far been undervalued in both design and craft histories. Making use of Nigel Cross’ influential theorization of ‘designerly ways of knowing’, this article explores the connections and divergences between design and patternmaking knowledge sets, reminding us that the making of manufactured objects is deeply collaborative across professional and class formations. In doing so, I highlight the significance of industrial craft knowledge in the actualization of design. This example has broader historical implications for how design history frames and values the knowledge, skills and influence of those engaged in industrial production.

Objective: This study examined how characteristics of households and communities are implicated in the intergenerational transmission of gender inequality and particularly female genital cutting (FGC). Background: Human capital perspectives suggest that socioeconomic inequality predicts FGC continuation. This study contributes to discussions of institutional change by examining the association of decisions to forego FGC with household decision making patterns and community gender norms. Method: Multilevel logistic regression was deployed to analyze a pooled sample (N = 12,144) of six demographic and health surveys from Burkina Faso, Egypt, Guinea, Kenya, Mali, and Nigeria. A series of models examined how decision making styles, both at the household and community levels (2,524 demographic and health survey cluster aggregations), and community levels of FGC correspond with the risk of having a daughter cut. Results: The results show that daughters are less likely to be cut when parents make key household decisions jointly. Autonomous decision making by women at the community level was associated with lower odds of daughters being cut. However, at the community level, the impacts of women's household decision making were attenuated when FGC was more prevalent. Conclusion: The findings suggest that women's decision making status is an important factor in FGC abandonment, although that association is less robust when FGC is highly institutionalized. This study provides new insights into how women, families, and communities can disrupt the intergenerational transmission of behaviors associated with institutionalized gender inequality.

A cross-sectional qualitative study examined how different pattern types accounted for wide variation in children’s Awareness of Mathematical Pattern and Structure (AMPS), illustrating how spatial and patterning skills are interrelated. An interpretive descriptive analysis of responses was conducted for two interview-based Growing Square Array (GA) and Spatial-Repeating Pattern (SP) tasks with 405 children from Grade 1 (n = 189) and Grade 2 (n = 216). Analysis of developmental levels of AMPS indicated that advanced multiplicative spatial structures were employed in GA patterns for 20% of Grade 1 and 35% of Grade 2 children, respectively. Responses to SP tasks extended beyond the ‘unit of repeat’ to the use of dynamic visualization, and orientation and transformation skills for 60% of children. Responses showing advanced structural features moderately increased at Grade 2 for both tasks. Micro-level analyses of illustrations of interview responses and from a Pattern Construction task, drawn from five case studies, revealed how multiplicative and transformation skills were utilized in forming repetitions and growing patterns in complex and novel ways. While the ‘unit of repeat’ is fundamental, the integration of more complex multi-dimensional patterning with spatial concepts can re-focus learning and pedagogy on establishing interrelationships between patterning and spatial concepts, and broader mathematical knowledge.