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6,771 result(s) for "surface water waves"
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Wave Attenuation by Sea Ice in the Arctic Marginal Ice Zone Observed by Spaceborne SAR
Attenuation of ocean waves by ice is a crucial process of the interaction between waves and sea ice in marginal ice zone (MIZ), while such interaction can contribute to the retreating of sea ice in the Arctic. Based on the retrieved two‐dimensional ocean wave spectra by spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar, we investigated the attenuation of ocean waves in the MIZ in Svalbard and Greenland. The results show that the energy attenuation rate ranges from 0.126 × 10−4/m to 0.618 × 10−4/m. Quantitative analysis suggests that the attenuation rate is significantly related to wave height and peak wave period of coming waves. It is further found that the waves decay faster in the area with ice thickness exceeding 0.5 m. We compared the derived wave attenuation rates in the present study with those in previous studies based on in situ measurements, which reveals that waves are becoming less attenuated by sea ice in the Arctic. Plain Language Summary The interaction between sea ice and ocean waves is one of the key processes that accelerates the retreat of sea ice in the Arctic. The attenuation of ocean waves by sea ice is crucial to understanding the wave‐ice interaction mechanism and predicting ice changes. Spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR), capable of imaging ocean waves and sea ice in two‐dimension with high spatial resolution, has shown tremendous potential in studies on wave‐ice interaction. In this study, SAR images acquired in ice‐covered areas near Svalbard and east of Greenland were collected, and then ocean wave spectra were retrieved from these SAR images. Ocean wave spectra depict sea states elaborately by showing the wave energy distribution in different frequencies and directions. Subsequently, we derived the wave attenuation rate in sea ice from these wave spectra. By comparing the derived attenuation rates with previous field observations, the study reveals a lower attenuation rate, which suggests the waves were less attenuated by ice in past decades under ongoing retreating and thinning of sea ice in the Arctic. This indicates that waves can penetrate sea ice easier and deeper, which may further induce the retreating of sea ice. Key Points Wave attenuation rate in sea ice was derived based on non‐linear inversion of two‐dimensional ocean wave spectra by Synthetic Aperture Radar in the Arctic marginal ice zone (MIZ) The attenuation rate generally follows the exponential law, varying with sea state (wave height and period) and sea ice conditions Combining previous studies and this one, we may infer that the wave attenuation in the Artic MIZ is weakening due to sea ice retreat
Interactions between Irregular Wave Fields and Sea Ice: A Physical Model for Wave Attenuation and Ice Breakup in an Ice Tank
Irregular, unidirectional surface water waves incident on model ice in an ice tank are used as a physical model of ocean surface wave interactions with sea ice. Results are given for an experiment consisting of three tests, starting with a continuous ice cover and in which the incident wave steepness increases between tests. The incident waves range from causing no breakup of the ice cover to breakup of the full length of ice cover. Temporal evolution of the ice edge, breaking front, and mean floe sizes are reported. Floe size distributions in the different tests are analyzed. The evolution of the wave spectrum with distance into the ice-covered water is analyzed in terms of changes of energy content, mean wave period, and spectral bandwidth relative to their incident counterparts, and pronounced differences are found between the tests. Further, an empirical attenuation coefficient is derived from the measurements and shown to have a power-law dependence on frequency comparable to that found in field measurements. Links between wave properties and ice breakup are discussed.
Nonlinear Bragg scattering of surface waves over a two-dimensional periodic structure
Bragg scattering of nonlinear surface waves over a wavy bottom is studied using two-dimensional fully nonlinear numerical wave tanks (NWTs). In particular, we consider cases of high nonlinearity which lead to complex wave generation and transformations, hence possible multiple Bragg resonances. The performance of the NWTs is well verified by benchmarking experiments. Classic Bragg resonances associated with second-order triad interactions among two surface (linear incident and reflected waves) and one bottom wave components (class I), and third-order quartet interactions among three surface (linear incident and reflected waves, and second-order reflected/transmitted waves) and one bottom wave components (class III) are observed. In addition, class I Bragg resonance occurring for the second-order (rather than linear) transmitted waves, and Bragg resonance arising from quintet interactions among three surface and two bottom wave components, are newly captured. The latter is denoted class IV Bragg resonance which magnifies bottom nonlinearity. It is also found that wave reflection and transmission at class III Bragg resonance have a quadratic rather than a linear relation with the bottom slope if the bottom size increases to a certain level. The surface wave and bottom nonlinearities are found to play opposite roles in shifting the Bragg resonance conditions. Finally, the results indicate that Bragg resonances are responsible for the phenomena of beating and parasitic beating, leading to a significantly large local free surface motion in front of the depth transition.
S1222a—The Largest Marsquake Detected by InSight
NASA's InSight has detected a large magnitude seismic event, labeled S1222a. The event has a moment magnitude of MWMa${\\mathrm{M}}_{\\mathrm{W}}^{\\text{Ma}}$ 4.7, with five times more seismic moment compared to the second largest event. The event is so large that features are clearly observed that were not seen in any previously detected events. In addition to body phases and Rayleigh waves, we also see Love waves, minor arc surface wave overtones, and multi‐orbit surface waves. At long periods, the coda event exceeds 10 hr. The event locates close to the North‐South dichotomy and outside the tectonically active Cerberus Fossae region. S1222a does not show any evident geological or tectonic features. The event is extremely rich in frequency content, extending from below 1/30 Hz up to 35 Hz. The event was classified as a broadband type event; we also observe coda decay and polarization similar to that of very high frequency type events. Plain Language Summary After 3 years of seismic monitoring of Mars by InSight Seismic Experiment for Interior Structure instrument, we detected a marsquake largest ever observed during the mission. The event is larger by factor of 5 in seismic moment compared to previously detected events. With such an energetic event, we discovered various seismic features that was never observed before. For the first time, we were able to detect body waves and surface waves with their overtones. The large variety of detected seismic phases will enable us to probe the internal structure of Mars. Second, the event was located outside a well‐known seismically active region of Cerberus Fossae. This might indicate that event do not come from the same fault system with other major marsquakes. Finally, this event shows simultaneously features of marsquakes that were previously classified into different types. S1222a is classified as a broadband event with a wide frequency range of seismic energy. At the same time, the coda shape and decay at high frequency resembles that of very high frequency type events. It was an open question how different types of marsquakes are excited of what makes such differences and such event will be a key to uncover such mystery of marsquakes. Key Points InSight detected on 4 May 2022 a MWMa${\\mathrm{M}}_{\\mathrm{W}}^{\\text{Ma}}$ 4.7 marsquake, S1222a, which is the largest seismic event detected so far The exceptional signal‐to‐noise allows multiple phases to be identified, with a rich collection of surface waves S1222a was located 37° southeast of the InSight landing site and close to the Martian dichotomy boundary
Why rogue waves occur atop abrupt depth transitions
Abrupt depth transitions (ADTs) have recently been identified as potential causes of ‘rogue’ ocean waves. When stationary and (close-to-) normally distributed waves travel into shallower water over an ADT, distinct spatially localized peaks in the probability of extreme waves occur. These peaks have been predicted numerically, observed experimentally, but not explained theoretically. Providing this theoretical explanation using a leading-order-physics-based statistical model, we show, by comparing to new experiments and numerical simulations, that the peaks arise from the interaction between linear free and second-order bound waves, also present in the absence of the ADT, and new second-order free waves generated due to the ADT.
Phase‐Resolved Swells Across Ocean Basins in SWOT Altimetry Data: Revealing Centimeter‐Scale Wave Heights Including Coastal Reflection
Severe storms produce ocean waves with periods of 18–26 s, corresponding to wavelengths 500–1,055 m. These waves radiate globally as swell, generating microseisms and affecting coastal areas. Despite their significance, long waves often elude detection by existing remote sensing systems when their height is below 0.2 m. The new Surface Water Ocean Topography (SWOT) satellite offers a breakthrough by resolving these waves in global sea level measurements. Here we show that SWOT can detect 25‐s waves with heights as low as 3 cm, and resolves period and direction better than in situ buoys. SWOT provides detailed maps of wave height, wavelength, and direction across ocean basins. These measurements unveil intricate spatial patterns, shedding light on wave generation in storms, currents that influence propagation, and refraction, diffraction and reflection in shallow regions. Notably, the magnitude of reflections exceeds previous expectations, illustrating SWOT's transformative impact. Plain Language Summary Wind storms at sea make waves that increase in size with wind speed, and with the distance over which the high winds have been able to amplify the waves. Once generated these waves propagate as swell around the world ocean: in that stage the wave period remains constant while the wave height decay away from the source. Waves with periods longer than 18 s are relatively infrequent, but they are an important source of seismic waves and coastal impacts. However, current remote sensing techniques miss long waves under 0.2 m high. The Surface Water Ocean Topography (SWOT) satellite mission changes this, spotting 25‐s waves with heights as low as 3 cm. SWOT maps wave height, wavelength, and direction worldwide, revealing the influence of winds, currents and water depth. For example, We found stronger than expected coastal reflection, which will help revise wave forecasting models and their application in seismology. Key Points Surface Water Ocean Topography (SWOT) data provide the first open ocean spatial measurements of phase‐resolved swells with wavelength 500–1,050 m Swells with heights as low as 3 cm are well detected by SWOT, allowing tracking across oceans Swell reflection off the coast can be separated from incident waves
How Currents Trigger Extreme Sea Waves. The Roles of Stokes Drift, Eulerian Return Flow, and a Background Flow in the Open Ocean
A deterministic system of ocean surface waves and flow in the oceanic boundary layer is key to understanding the dynamics of the upper ocean. For the description of such complex systems, a higher‐order shear‐current modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation is newly derived and then used to physically interpret the interplay between Stokes drift, Eulerian return flow due to a passing wave group, and an open‐ocean vertically sheared flow in the extreme sea wave generation. The conditions for the suppression or enhancement of the modulation instability in the rogue wave dynamics in the presence of a background flow are reported, whose relevance and influence to the Craik‐Leibovich type 2 instability in triggering a Langmuir‐type circulation is discussed. The findings highlight the need for future studies to establish and assess the energy transfer from waves to currents or in the reversing order, asserting a plausible physical mechanism for the dissipation of the surface wave energy through wave‐current interactions in the open ocean. Plain Language Summary The dynamics of the upper‐ocean involve many complex processes, including for instance the interplay between wind, waves, currents, and global circulation systems. Such interactions can give rise to instabilities and extreme events with far‐reaching consequences. In this letter, we use a newly derived weakly nonlinear wave framework accounting for the presence of shear currents to quantify the requirements to trigger modulation instability, giving rise to long‐crested rogue waves. Our investigation also provides combined conditions for the occurrence of both, modulation and Craik‐Leibovich (type 2) instabilities, and demonstrates the possibility of energy transfers between waves as well as between waves and currents in the ocean. Key Points An advanced shear‐current modified nonlinear Schrödinger‐type equation is derived for surface waves in a background open‐ocean flow The interplay between Stokes drift, background flow, and Eulerian return flow by a wave group, in extreme waves generation is revealed How a background flow suppresses the modulational instability is explained and its relevance to the CL2 instability is discussed
Flexural-gravity wave dynamics in two-layer fluid: blocking and dead water analogue
Flexural-gravity wave characteristics are analysed, in the presence of a compressive force and a two-layer fluid, under the assumption of linearized water wave theory and small amplitude structural response. The occurrence of blocking for flexural-gravity waves is demonstrated in both the surface and internal modes. Within the threshold of the blocking and the buckling limit, the dispersion relation possesses four positive roots (for fixed wavenumber). It is shown that, under certain conditions, the phase and group velocities coalesce. Moreover, a wavenumber range for certain critical values of compression and depth is provided within which the internal wave energy moves faster than that of the surface wave. It is also demonstrated that, for shallow water, the wave frequencies in the surface and internal modes will never coalesce. It is established that the phase speed in the surface and internal modes attains a minimum and maximum, respectively, when the interface is located approximately in the middle of the water depth. An analogue of the dead water phenomenon, the occurrence of a high amplitude internal wave with a low amplitude at the surface, is established, irrespective of water depth, when the densities of the two fluids are close to each other. When the interface becomes close to the seabed, the dead water effect ceases to exist. The theory developed in the frequency domain is extended to the time domain and examples of negative energy waves and blocking are presented.
The influence of spectral bandwidth and shape on deep-water wave breaking onset
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have a strong influence on the onset of wave breaking. In two dimensions and in deep water, spectral bandwidth is the main factor that affects the roles these mechanism play. Existing studies, in which the relationship between spectral bandwidth and wave breaking onset is investigated, present varied and sometimes conflicting results. We perform potential-flow simulations of two-dimensional focused wave groups on deep water to better understand this relationship, with the aim of reconciling existing studies. We show that the way in which steepness is defined may be the main source of confusion in the literature. Locally defined steepness at breaking onset reduces as a function of bandwidth, and globally defined (spectral) steepness increases. The relationship between global breaking onset steepness and spectral shape (using the parameters bandwidth and spectral skewness) is too complex to parameterise in a general way. However, we find that the local surface slope of maximally steep non-breaking waves, of all spectral bandwidths and shapes that we simulate, approaches a limit of $1/\\tan ({\\rm \\pi} /3)\\approx 0.5774$. This slope-based threshold is simple to measure and may be used as an alternative to existing kinematic breaking onset thresholds. There is a potential link between slope-based and kinematic breaking onset thresholds, which future work should seek to better understand.
High‐Frequency Tsunamis Excited Near Torishima Island, Japan, Observed by Distributed Acoustic Sensing
Recent distributed acoustic sensing (DAS) experiments in ocean areas throughout the world have accumulated records for various wavefields. However, there are few tsunami records because tsunami observation depends on the DAS experimental period and its location. From continuous DAS records, we found tsunami signals at a frequency band of 5–30 mHz, which correspond to high‐frequency components of tsunamis and their propagation velocities differ from low‐frequency tsunamis. We estimated time series of the tsunami excitations at the source using the DAS records, which are consistent with those using records of ocean‐bottom absolute pressure gauges. Our study suggests that DAS records can be used for detecting tsunami propagations in the regions where other geophysical instruments are not available, and contribute to elucidating their excitation mechanisms. Plain Language Summary Using distributed acoustic sensing (DAS) techniques, various types of wavefields, such as earthquake and ocean waves, have been captured by submarine fiber optic cables. However, the recording of tsunamis has been limited, as their observation depends on the timing and location of the DAS experiments. On 8 October 2023, in southern Japan, changes in sea level attributable to tsunamis were detected by tide gauges. Continuous DAS records in southern Japan have enabled the capture of signals associated with these tsunamis. The observed signals exhibit frequency‐dependent propagation velocities, which correspond to infragravity waves. These are essentially deep water waves or ocean surface gravity waves, representing the high‐frequency components of tsunamis. Using the DAS records alone, we were able to estimate the time‐series of the tsunami generation at the source location. The features obtained from the time‐series were consistent with those from records of absolute pressure gauges on the seafloor deployed in southwestern Japan. Our findings demonstrate the utility of DAS records in detecting tsunami propagations and also elucidating excitation mechanisms of tsunamis. Key Points The countinuous records of our distributed acoustic sensing measuresment capture tsunami‐related signals The phase velocity dispersion of the obtained signals matches that of infragravity waves (high‐frequency tsunamis) The time‐series of the tsunami generation obtained by the cable data are consistent with those from nearby absolute pressure gauges