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Extreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal
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Journal Article
Extreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal
2020
Overview
We report laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular water surface waves propagating over a shoal. For a sufficiently shallow shoal we find that the surface elevation can have a local maximum of skewness and kurtosis above the shallower part of the shoal close to the edge on the incoming side, and a local minimum of skewness over the downward slope on the lee side of the shoal. We find that the horizontal fluid velocity can have a local maximum and minimum of skewness at the same locations as those for the surface elevation. However, the kurtosis of the horizontal fluid velocity can have a local maximum over the downward slope on the lee side of the shoal, different from the location of the maximum of kurtosis of the surface elevation.
Publisher
Cambridge University Press
Subject
