Newspaper Article

Dining With Moira Hodgson

Hodgson, Moira

2003

Overview

Order the mixed grill ($25) and, instead of great chunks of meat on a cutting board, you get an elegant Moroccan-inspired presentation. A heap of tiny bias-cut merguez conceals a tender lacquered squab breast and a glazed chicken leg underneath; on the side is a small bowl of curried Israeli couscous tossed with shredded braised lamb. The plate of paella, which contains chicken, sausage, lobster and clams, is rimmed with mussels. The seasonings are delicate, and the rice, the most important part, is perfect: each grain firm yet creamy. It's just the right portion and you can eat the lot. You can jump all over the world with this menu. For $10, you can get a lovely tart filled with fresh chanterelles and topped with feta and baked tomato. For $5, there's a small platter of tiny roasted Brussels sprouts served with a parmesan crisp and sprinkled with sage and toasted walnuts. It was a revelation to my friends, who had grown up in England and were used to Brussels sprouts cooked until they were gray and soggy. A spicy salad of green papaya tossed with lime, cilantro and peanuts was pleasantly tart and crunchy. A little of it went a long way, this was certainly a dish for sharing. Desserts are priced at $5 and, while they all look great, they vary in taste. Creme brulee is served in a deep dish under an orange- lavender froth, but the vein of caramel running through it made it too sweet for me. Chocolate Napoleon consisted of a tough, bitter chocolate pastry layered with a bland, bitter chocolate filling. Bourbon bread pudding was on the dull side, but the caramelized pear toffee cake, dark, moist and treacly, was wonderful, with sour-cream ice cream and spiced almonds. I can still taste it.

• Publisher: New York Observer, LP
• Subject: Hodgson, Moira