Newspaper Article

WHAT'S DOING IN ALBUQUERQUE

Press)., NORMAN ZOLLINGER, NORMAN ZOLLINGER, a novelist who lives in Albuquerque, is the author of ''Corey Lane'' (Ticknor & Fields) and ''Riders to Cibola'' (Museum of New Mexico

1983

Overview

With the closing of the New Mexico State Fair in September, Albuquerque's brief, annual recollection of its Old West attachment (more or less forgotten since the city became part of the ''Sun Belt'') has ended; the Stetsons and the Tony Lama boots have been stuffed in the closet for another year, and the calf ropers, barrel racers and bronc riders have ''gone on down the road.'' October's International Balloon Fiesta (there were 430 entrants this year in the biggest- ever display of the rising, drifting beauties) is a thing of the past, too. Albuquerque is ready to settle into that special semisomnolence in which it becomes more quietly Indian and Spanish than any other Southwestern metropolis - at least so Albuquerqueans confidently believe. Even the mild hustle and bustle of the holiday season has a particularly Latino and Native American atmosphere in the 375-year-old Duke City and environs. Back in Albuquerque, a thirst for knowledge about Indian life and history can be slaked at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center (2401 12th St. N.W.; 505-843-7270) open in December every day except Christmas from 9:30 A.M. to 5:30 P.M., Sunday 11 A.M. to 5:30 P.M. A restaurant is open for breakfast from 8:30 to 11 A.M. Lunch, which is served from 11 A.M. to 3 P.M., features authentic Indian food such as Tiwa tacos (Indian fry bread smothered with frijoles and topped with red or green chilies - $2.95) or Pueblo fried burritos (a lively mixture of ground beef or pork, cheese and onions deep-fried in fry bread batter - $2.95); both entrees are fairly piquant. For a mild dessert, try Indian bread pudding (45 cents a portion). Craft products are for sale at the center; this December's main offering is a dazzling selection of nacimientos (Nativity figures and scenes). Sale of these items begins with a show, also featuring the art of Robert Montoya, Dec. 3, from 3 to 5 P.M. The happiest event on the center's December calendar is the Pueblo Indian Children's Party on Dec. 17 at 12:30 P.M. There will be refreshments, Indian songs and dances, and it is open to the public. Admission to the center is $1.50 for adults ($1 for older people and 75 cents for students and children. Celebrations For those who used to get their ''kicks on Route 66,'' when Albuquerque was the same 15 miles long it is today but only one street wide, and when the only lodgings in sight were ''tourist cabins,'' it will come as a shock to discover a clutch of sumptuous high-rise hotels as well as the usual chain motels. When Fred Harvey's splendid old Alvarado was torn down some years back, it left wounds not only in the hearts of Albuquerqueans but also in the hearts of Southwestern fans everywhere. Fine as the modern establishments are, it remains to be seen whether they can help to heal the wounds.

• Publisher: New York Times Company
• Subject: TRAVEL / ZOLLINGER, NORMAN