Newspaper Article

Food; Apple Polishing

Marcia Adams is the author of "Cooking From Quilt Country" (Clarkson N. Potter) and the host of the public television series "Amish Cooking.", Adams, Marcia

1989

Overview

BLACK GILLIFLOWER, WHITE WINTER PEARMAIN, Esopus Spitzenburg, St. Edmund's Pippin . . . the names of these old apples trip off my tongue with pleasure. Now affectionately called antique apples, many of the varieties that were grown before the Civil War are being revived. Alas, they are not as beautiful as their names; the fruit is small, irregular - all right, it must be said - just plain quirky. In fact, their eccentric appearance and short storage life almost led to their demise. But because of their sprightly flavors and almost winy bouquet, pomophiles are eagerly seeking these distinct fruits at roadside stands and farmers' markets. ''Gravensteins?'' they whisper almost reverently. ''Or do you happen to have any Kandil Sinaps?'' More and more chefs are scanning the local markets for these unusual apples. Robert Davis, the chef at the Checkerberry Inn, near Goshen, Ind., creates luxurious dishes with a variety of apples. ''I prefer tart, crisp apples,'' he says. ''The sweeter ones tend to taste flat and turn mushy when cooked.'' Apples appear in soups and salads, and his fruit flambe with a pastry cookie and apple-pecan tarts are frequently requested desserts. Grilled duckling breast is served with sauteed apples, onions and raisins topped with a garlicky plum-orange sauce. Down the road from the Checkerberry Inn, Amish housewives pick apples in their own orchards and, true to their 19th-century life style, store them in the barn for the winter. ''I like Rome Beauties, Northern Spies and Jonathans the best,'' says Amanda Schmucker. ''The Jonathans really hold up well for cooking.'' Mrs. Schmucker makes a steamed apple pudding that is similar to suet pudding - dark, dense and spicy. Fried apples sauteed in butter and brown sugar with a hint of cinnamon and lemon is a favored side dish on farm tables throughout the winter. I like serving fried apples with pork entrees, or as a brunch dish.

• Publisher: New York Times Company
• Subject: ADAMS, MARCIA / APPLES / COOKING AND COOKBOOKS / RECIPES