Newspaper Article

Peekskill Spot Offers Fare for the Few

Reed, M H

1999

Overview

IN these days of economic hubris, the Zephses Victoria at the stove and her brother Michael managing out front -- can offer a lesson in humility to other small family concerns. For almost 10 years this team has consistently pleased customers by following a simple, yet elegant plan of nonexpansion. Too many small gems compromise success by overreaching, but this restaurant has clearly decided to delight the discerning few. Where less particular restaurateurs would pack in six more tables in Zephs' space, not more than a comfortably spaced baker's dozen offer seating. Although only a handful of appetizers and entrees are offered, they are reinvented frequently and always executed with care. And what the menu describes is what the diner receives. If a touch of roasted pumpkin seed or black olive is promised, it is delivered. Another pleasure brought a Korean-style scallion pancake (gool pa ju) topped with a raw oyster enhanced by sesame sauce, which also gently moistened the pancake. And judging by mushroom and herb soup -- its texture pleasantly bumpy with an abundance of ground mushrooms -- the fresh seasonal soup of the evening also demanded consideration. For all their intriguing filling of ricotta, pumpkin and nuts, pumpkin cannelloni seemed bland. Nor did sparks fly with a Greek-style tart, the excellent rounds of puff pastry topped with shrimps, feta and black olives, each fine on its own, but the combination failed to meld.

• Publisher: New York Times Company
• Subject: Restaurants / Zephs-Peekskill NY