Newspaper Article

Low-Key Spot for Homey Food in Peekskill

Reed, M H

2000

Overview

THE dining demands of this city's burgeoning artistic community seem to keep an increasing number of diverse eating spots bustling, particularly on weekends. And Division Street is claiming its share. One of the cheeriest restaurants on the street is Susan's, which has held its ground for more than a dozen years. In the last six, as chef and new owner, Evan Thompson has been transforming the place, phasing out the bar and concentrating on food. The current menu leaves no fear of having a chilblain attack after dining here. Diners sup on honest, rib-sticking food, and they certainly get their money's worth in the sheer quantity delivered on every plate. The generosity, however, seemed out of control, as was the slow, addled service. And although it deserved points for its enthusiasm and use of fresh ingredients, the kitchen could not always deliver successfully all the items on a menu overambitious in its length. It, like the portions, needed serious trimming. Sure bets here were to be found among the starters, pastas and desserts. Spring rolls were usually offered, and both Thai shrimp rolls with mild peanut sauce and curried chicken rolls were light and crunchy without being greasy. With flavor as substantial as meat, grilled portobello mushrooms and sweet roasted peppers would have been as satisfying without the bit of goat cheese, appreciated nonetheless. Where one would have sufficed, two hefty cakes packed with fresh salmon came with good mustard dipping sauce.

• Publisher: New York Times Company
• Subject: Restaurants / Susans Restaurant-Peekskill NY