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Marine fish provide a rich source of bioactive compounds such as proteins and peptides. The bioactive proteins and peptides derived from marine fish have gained enormous interest in nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmeceutical industries due to their broad spectrum of bioactivities, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-aging activities. Recently, the development of cosmeceuticals using marine fish-derived proteins and peptides obtained from chemical or enzymatical hydrolysis of fish processing by-products has increased rapidly owing to their activities in antioxidation and tissue regeneration. Marine fish-derived collagen has been utilized for the development of cosmeceutical products due to its abilities in skin repair and tissue regeneration. Marine fish-derived peptides have also been utilized for various cosmeceutical applications due to their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitory activities. In addition, marine fish-derived proteins and hydrolysates demonstrated efficient anti-photoaging activity. The present review highlights and presents an overview of the current status of the isolation and applications of marine fish-derived proteins and peptides. This review also demonstrates that marine fish-derived proteins and peptides have high potential for biocompatible and effective cosmeceuticals.

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation causes photoaging, such as wrinkles, roughness and dryness of the skin, and it activates the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammatory cytokines. In this study, the anti-photoaging activity of SEP-E (steam-exploded pine extract) was evaluated in HaCaT keratinocytes damaged by UVB irradiation. SEP-E treatment showed cytoprotective effects in HaCaT keratinocytes irradiated with UVB (40 mJ/cm2). SEP-E treatment reduced ROS overproduction and promoted the expression of antioxidant enzymes, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase 1, and superoxide dismutase 2. Additionally, SEP-E treatment suppressed the expression of inflammatory cytokines, including interleukin 6, interleukin 8, and monocyte chemoattractant protein-1. Consequently, SEP-E shows potential as a natural material for photoaging treatment.

Ferns native to Korea, such as Davallia mariesii, Dicranopteris pedata, and Gleichenia japonica, possess antioxidant and antibacterial properties. However, their inhibitory effects on skin photoaging have not been demonstrated. Measurement and comparison of the antioxidant activity of three types of ferns revealed that the extract from G. japonica had the best effect. This study evaluates the potential of G. japonica extract as a new functional material for preventing skin damage caused by ultraviolet radiation. G. japonica extracts showed protective effects against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation in human epidermal keratinocyte cells; the extracts inhibited intracellular reactive oxygen species production. In addition, collagen biosynthesis increased, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity and protein expression level decreased in human primary dermal fibroblast irradiated with UVB. The main peak (compound 1) of the extract was separated through high-performance liquid chromatography analysis and preparative liquid chromatography. Compound 1 is strongly inferred to be the main active ingredient because it showed better antioxidant activity and UVB protection effect than G. japonica extract. These results demonstrate the physiological effects of G. japonica extract and suggest its applicability as a new functional substance for preventing skin damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Skin photoaging is premature skin aging damage that occurs after repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Although isothiocyanates extracted from the moringa tree (Moringa oleifera Lam.) (MITC) exhibit excellent effects against skin photoaging, its application is restricted because of its characteristics, such as extremely low water solubility, bioavailability, and easy degradation. Currently, flexible nanoliposomes have gained increasing interest as a biocompatible polymer for applications such as transdermal drug delivery. We prepare amphiphilic hyaluronic acid (HA) conjugated with ceramide (CE) to modify nanoliposomes for MITC (HACE/MITC NPs) delivery. The HACE/MITC nanoparticles (NPs) are prepared and characterized for entrapment efficiency, particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, in vitro release, in vivo skin permeation, and in vitro protective effect of photoaging. The zeta potential of MITC NPs and HACE/MITC NPs is −24.46 mV and −24.93 mV, respectively. After modification of HACE, the entrapment efficient of MITC liposome increased from 62.54% to 70.67%, and the particle size decreased from 266.1 nm to 192.8 nm. In vivo skin permeation, permeated drug increased from 49.42 to 71.40%. Moreover, the results showed that the entrapment of MITC in nanoliposomes improves its stability, efficacy, and skin permeation. Further, HACE/MITC NPs are favorable for uptake by HaCaT cells without requiring changes in cell morphology, which significantly improves the activities of antioxidant enzymes, scavenges UVB-induced reactive oxygen species, protects skin from damage, and reduces MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 expression caused by radiation-induced photoaging. Our results strongly suggest that flexible nanoliposomes successfully improved the cell membrane permeation of MITC, and that anti-photoaging and HACE/MITC NPs can potentially be used as candidates for photoaging therapy.

UVA can cause oxidative stress and photoaging of cells. We established a UVA-induced oxidative stress model of human fibroblasts and focused on the antioxidant and anti-photoaging ability of Lactobacillus plantarum fermented Rhodiola rosea. Compared with the unfermented Rhodiola rosea, Lactobacillus plantarum fermented Rhodiola rosea has better DPPH free radical and hydroxyl free radical scavenging ability, significantly reduces the content of reactive oxygen species (ROS), and improves the antioxidant level. Further studies have shown that the Lactobacillus plantarum fermented Rhodiola rosea can activate the Nrf2/Keap1 signaling pathway and up-regulate heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), NAD(P)H quinone dehydrogenase 1 (NQO1), catalase (CAT) and glutathione Peptide peroxidase (GSH-Px), and protect fibroblasts from oxidative stress caused by UVA. On the other hand, Lactobacillus plantarum fermented Rhodiola rosea significantly reduces the activity of metalloproteinases in the cell, thereby increasing the collagen and elastin in the cell, alleviating the photoaging caused by UVA. Finally, we concluded that the antioxidant capacity and anti-photoaging ability of Lactobacillus plantarum fermented Rhodiola rosea are better than that of unfermented Rhodiola rosea.

An alginate (named P1) prepared from Sargassum fusiforme has been proven to have significant anti‐photoaging activity in our previous study. In this study, alginate lyase was used to obtain P1 hydrolysates with different molecular weights, and their structural characteristics and anti‐photoaging activity were compared. Results showed that alginate lyases could rapidly degrade the molecular weight of P1 and slightly changed its chemical composition. Fourier transform infrared spectra indicated that alginate lyase treatment did not change the main functional groups of P1. Moreover, the inhibitory effects of P1 on MMPs (MMP‐1, MMP‐3 and MMP‐9) and reactive oxygen species were also improved after hydrolyzed with alginate lyase, especially sample A‐30 (hydrolysis for 30 min). Methylation and nuclear magnetic resonance results indicated that the main chain of A‐30 was →4)‐β‐ManA‐(1→4)‐α‐GulA‐(1→4)‐β‐ManA‐(1→4)‐β‐ManA‐(1→4)‐α‐GulA‐(1→4)‐β‐ManA‐(1→3, 4)‐β‐ManA‐(1→, with the end group of α‐Fucp‐(1→ attached to the O‐3 position of →3, 4)‐β‐ManA‐(1→ on the side chain. It indicated that alginate lyase did not change the backbone of P1 but decreased the molecular or degree of polymerization at 30 min of hydrolysis. This is the first report on the anti‐photoaging activity of alginate hydrolysates. The results will provide effective theoretical support for improving the utilization and promoting the application of S. fusiforme. Alginate (P1) from S. fusiforme possess anti‐photoaging activity, and alginate enzyme could improve the anti‐photoaging activity by reducing the polymerization of P1.

Fibroblasts account for more than 95% of dermal cells maintaining dermal structure and function. However, UVA penetrates the dermis and causes oxidative stress that damages the dermis and accelerates skin aging. Puerarin, the main active ingredient of Puerariae lobata, has been demonstrated to withstand oxidative stress caused by a variety of factors. However, there are limited findings on whether puerarin protects fibroblasts from UVA-induced oxidative stress damage. The effects of puerarin on human skin fibroblasts (HSF) under UVA-induced oxidative stress were investigated in this study. It is found that puerarin upregulates antioxidant enzymes’ mRNA expression level and their content through modulating the KEAP1-Nrf2/ARE signaling pathway, thus improving cell antioxidant capacity and successfully eliminating UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid oxidation product malondialdehyde (MDA). Additionally, puerarin blocks the overexpression of human extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), human c-Jun amino-terminal kinase (JNK), and P38, which downregulates matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) expression and increases type I collagen (COL-1) expression. Moreover, preliminary research on mouse skin suggests that puerarin can hydrate, moisturize, and increase the antioxidant capacity of skin tissue. These findings suggest that puerarin can protect the skin against photoaging.

Previous studies suggested that fucoidan with a molecular weight of 102.67 kDa, isolated from Hizikia fusiforme, possesses strong antioxidant activity. To explore the cosmeceutical potential of fucoidan, its anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenesis effects were evaluated in the present study. The anti-photoaging effect was investigated in ultraviolet (UV) B-irradiated human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), where fucoidan effectively reduced the intracellular reactive oxygen species level and improved the viability of the UVB-irradiated cells without any cytotoxic effects. Moreover, fucoidan significantly decreased UVB-induced apoptosis in HaCaT cells by regulating the protein expression of Bax, Bcl-xL, PARP, and Caspase-3 in HaCaT cells in a concentration-dependent manner. The anti-melanogenesis effect of fucoidan was evaluated in B16F10 melanoma cells that had been stimulated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), and fucoidan treatment remarkably inhibited melanin synthesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Further studies indicated that fucoidan significantly suppressed the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and-2) in B16F10 cells by down-regulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) through regulation of the ERK–MAPK (extracellular signal regulated kinase-mitogen activated protein kinase) pathway. Taken together, these results suggest that fucoidan isolated from H. fusiforme possesses strong anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenesis activities and can be used as an ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation induces oxidative stress and inflammatory responses, accelerating the senescence process of skin cells. Vorinostat (SAHA), a histone deacetylase inhibitor (HDACi), is typically administered to patients with peripheral T-cell lymphoma, cutaneous T-cell lymphoma, or multiple myeloma. However, its effect on UVB-induced skin photoaging remains unclear. In this study, we used UVB to induce senescence in human immortalized keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells) and skin photoaging in Balb/c mice to investigate the potential of SAHA in mitigating photoaging. First, we established a UVB-induced photoaging model in HaCaT cells. We observed that UVB exposure significantly upregulated the activity of senescence-associated β-galactosidase, p16, p21, IL-1β, IL-6, and matrix metalloproteinases [collagenase (MMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP-3), and gelatinase (MMP-9)]. Supplementation with SAHA effectively alleviated cellular senescence in HaCaT cells. Next, we used UVB to induce photoaging in Balb/c mouse skin. The study demonstrated that UVB markedly caused skin senescence in Balb/c mice, while SAHA effectively mitigated the changes induced by UVB irradiation. Mechanistically, we found that UVB activated the mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR) and nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) signaling pathways, whereas SAHA inhibited the upregulation of both mTOR and NF-κB. In summary, these findings suggest that SAHA may protect against UVB-induced cellular senescence and skin photoaging by inhibiting the mTOR and NF-κB signaling pathways. Therefore, SAHA could be a potential anti-senescence agent for mitigating skin photoaging.