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"Cooking, Creole History."
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Belle New Orleans: The History of Creole Cuisineres
This paper recaps the history and role of New Orleans African-American women in the culinary industry from the 18th century to the present as was presented at the Black Arts Movement Conference at Dillard University in September 2016. It realizes their major contributions to the making of the world famous New Orleans signature Creole cuisine. Also, the paper explores the exploitation and branding of African-American southern cooks for American consumption and consumerism.
Journal Article
Response from the Author
Here, Groucher replies to J Brent Crosson's comment on her book Congotay! Congotay! A Global History of Caribbean Food. Among others, she says Food memories helped erase the geographical distances caused by dispersion, and they lined the Caribbean crucible with a sense of belonging as the basis for survival and resistance. Ultimately the projection of local identities onto the global map created a culinary diaspora, whose processes continue to have political consequences. We probably can agree on the tasty morsels of that creole experience, from urban Dakar (Senegal) or Cape Coast, Ghana, to Port of Spain, Havana, and New Orleans. Neither should people forget the bitter taste of their unsavory counterparts in the cooking pot of history.
Journal Article
Eshu on the Bayou
Fertel features Earner Sylvain, who served his mother, founder of Ruth's Chris Steak House, for 42 to years as housekeeper, right hand, and chief pot-stirrer. Among other things, Sylvain's errands were less efficiently pursued and often errant. To support Miz Ruth fully, Sylvain needed a certain freedom of movement. Easier to apologize than to ask permission, Sylvain rarely even bothered to apologize. He died in her sleep on May 27, 2008.
Journal Article
Tamales or Timbales: Cuisine and the Formation of Mexican National Identity, 1821–1911
Mexican writers of the twentieth century have often imagined cuisine to be a symbol of their national identity, a mestizo blend of Native American and Spanish influences. Salvador Novo, for example, a member of the Academia Mexicana de la Lengua and official chronicler of Mexico City, traced the beginnings of mestizaje to the “happy encounter” between corn tortillas and pork sausage that produced the first taco. The most common culinary metaphor for the Mexican nation was mole poblano (turkey in deep-brown sauce). Authors in the 1920s began attributing the origins of this dish to the convents of colonial Puebla, and in particular to Sor Andrea de la Asunción of the Dominican Santa Rosa cloister. About 1680 she supposedly combined seasonings from the Old World with chile peppers from the New in honor of Viceroy Tomás Antonio de la Cerda y Aragón. Mole thus represented Mexico’s “cosmic race,” created by divine inspiration and served up for the approval of the Spanish crown.
Journal Article
Cookbooks and Caribbean cultural identity : an English-language hors d'oeuvre
Analysis of 119 English-language cookbooks (1890-1997) published in or having to do with the Caribbean. This study of the history of cookbooks indicates what it means to be Caribbean or to identify with some smaller territory or grouping and how this meaning has changed in response to social and political developments. Concludes that cookbook-writers have not been successful in creating a single account of the Caribbean past or a single, unitary definition of Caribbean cuisine or culture.
Journal Article
A Journey Back in Time
A public relations machine operated by automobile clubs, railroad companies, hotels, restaurants, and city- and state-sponsored travel organizations pumped out a sea of tourist guides steeped in the romance and flavors of the southern colonies, the antebellum plantations, the colorful Creole landscapes, and the “isolation” of the mysterious mountain South.¹ A constructed historical narrative of white nobility, black service, and exceptional hospitality enlivened this invented South, as seen in an early twentieth-century tourist brochure from the Seaboard Air Line Railway. Self-advertised as “The Progressive Railway of the South,” the rail company’s promotional materials included a map of train routes that
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