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The oral administration of antioxidants may suppress UV-B-induced skin damage. HITHION YH-15, the extract of Torula yeast ( Cyberlindnera jadinii ), is rich in cysteine-containing peptides such as reduced and oxidized glutathione (GSH and GSSG), γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-Glu-Cys), and cysteinylglycine (Cys-Gly). These four constituents are termed cysteine peptides. In this study, we investigated the protective effects of cysteine peptides against UV-B in a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind, parallel-group study. A total of 90 healthy males and females aged 30–59 years were enrolled and randomized into two groups of 45 individuals each (cysteine peptides (48 mg/day) and placebo). Changes in UV-B-induced erythema and pigmentation were compared between groups after 5 weeks of test food intake. The minimal erythema dose (MED) significantly increased (* p  = 0.019) in the cysteine peptides group compared to that in the placebo group, indicating suppression of UV-B-induced erythema. ΔL* value significantly increased (*** p  < 0.0001) in the cysteine peptides group compared to that in the placebo, indicating pigmentation suppression. We demonstrated that oral administration of cysteine peptides suppresses UV-B-induced erythema and pigmentation through multiple mechanisms. Thus, cysteine peptides may find use as nutricosmetics for maintaining skin health and well-being. UMIN Clinical Trials Registry ID: UMIN 000050157.

Skin color diversity is the most variable and noticeable phenotypic trait in humans resulting from constitutive pigmentation variability. This paper will review the characterization of skin pigmentation diversity with a focus on the most recent data on the genetic basis of skin pigmentation, and the various methodologies for skin color assessment. Then, melanocyte activity and amount, type and distribution of melanins, which are the main drivers for skin pigmentation, are described. Paracrine regulators of melanocyte microenvironment are also discussed. Skin response to sun exposure is also highly dependent on color diversity. Thus, sensitivity to solar wavelengths is examined in terms of acute effects such as sunburn/erythema or induced-pigmentation but also long-term consequences such as skin cancers, photoageing and pigmentary disorders. More pronounced sun-sensitivity in lighter or darker skin types depending on the detrimental effects and involved wavelengths is reviewed.

Background Chronic nonextreme sun exposure induces two mechanisms of skin pigmentation, causing immediate darkening and delayed tanning. A new molecule, 2‐mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2‐MNG), has been shown in vitro to inhibit both immediate darkening and new melanin synthesis via covalent conjugation of the thiol group of 2‐MNG to melanin precursors. Objective To evaluate 2‐MNG in preventing both mechanisms in vivo. Methods In a randomized, intra‐individual and controlled study, 33 subjects with melanin‐rich skin were exposed to UV daylight on designated areas on the back and treated with a cosmetic formula containing 0.5% or 1% 2‐MNG alone or 0.5% 2‐MNG in association with lipohydroxy acid (LHA, 0.3%) plus Mexoryl‐SX (MSX, 1.5%). The respective vehicles were used as controls and 4‐n‐butyl‐resorcinol (4‐n‐BR, 2.5%) as a positive reference. Results 2‐MNG alone significantly reduced immediate darkening and inhibited new melanin production when compared with vehicle, with higher performance at 1% than at 0.5%. 2‐MNG at 0.5% in association with LHA and MSX showed significantly higher performance than 2‐MNG 0.5% alone. 2‐MNG at 0.5% and 1% showed significantly better performance than 4‐n‐BR. Conclusions 2‐MNG inhibited both UV‐induced skin pigmentation mechanisms in vivo. The association of 2‐MNG with LHA plus MSX showed the highest efficacy on melanin‐rich skin with pigmentation induced by UV exposure.

Skin pigmentation is a classic example of a polygenic trait that has experienced directional selection in humans. Genome-wide association studies have identified well over a hundred pigmentation-associated loci, and genomic scans in present-day and ancient populations have identified selective sweeps for a small number of light pigmentation-associated alleles in Europeans. It is unclear whether selection has operated on all of the genetic variation associated with skin pigmentation as opposed to just a small number of large-effect variants. Here, we address this question using ancient DNA from 1,158 individuals from West Eurasia covering a period of 40,000 y combined with genome-wide association summary statistics from the UK Biobank. We find a robust signal of directional selection in ancient West Eurasians on 170 skin pigmentation-associated variants ascertained in the UK Biobank. However, we also show that this signal is driven by a limited number of large-effect variants. Consistent with this observation, we find that a polygenic selection test in present-day populations fails to detect selection with the full set of variants. Our data allow us to disentangle the effects of admixture and selection. Most notably, a large-effect variant at SLC24A5 was introduced to Western Europe by migrations of Neolithic farming populations but continued to be under selection post-admixture. This study shows that the response to selection for light skin pigmentation in West Eurasia was driven by a relatively small proportion of the variants that are associated with present-day phenotypic variation.

This clinical study was performed to evaluate the effects of continuous apple polyphenol (AP) administration on facial skin conditions and pigmentation induced by ultraviolet (UV) irradiation in healthy women participants. Participants (n = 65, age 20–39 years) were randomized to receive tablets containing AP (300 or 600 mg/day) or placebo in a double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Continuous administration of AP for 12 weeks significantly prevented UV irradiation induced skin pigmentation (erythema value, melanin value, L value), although a dose-dependent relationship was not clearly observed. In contrast, no significant differences were detected between the groups with regard to water content and trans-epidermal water loss. Our study demonstrated that APs and their major active compounds, procyanidins, have several health benefits. Here, we report that continuous administration of AP for 12 weeks alleviated UV irradiation induced skin pigmentation, when compared with placebo, in healthy women.

Loss and absence of melanocytes due to a number of factors is responsible for vitiligo; known to be the commonest disorder of pigmentation. The aim of the current work was to compare the efficacy and safety of excimer light with topical tacrolimus ointment 0.1% versus excimer light with topical bimatoprost gel 0.01% in treatment of facial vitiligo. The study was carried out on 48 patients presented with facial vitiligo. The patients were divided randomly using sealed envelope method into two groups (24 patients each). Group 1 were treated with excimer light plus topical tacrolimus ointment 0.1% and group 2 treated with excimer light plus topical bimatoprost gel 0.01%. Clinical improvement based on the quartile grading scale at the end of treatment did not show any statistically significant difference between groups. The majority of subjects in both groups experienced good to excellent improvement. Only 20.9% of patients in group 1 and 33.3% of subjects in group 2 achieved less than 50% repigmentation ( p  = 0.889). Our study demonstrated that 0.01% topical bimatoprost gel in combination with excimer light is considered safe and effective as treatment of nonsegmental facial vitiligo with comparable results to 0.1% tacrolimus.

Direct sun exposure is one of the most aggressive factors for human skin. Sun radiation contains a range of the electromagnetic spectrum including UV light. In addition to the stratospheric ozone layer filtering the most harmful UVC, human skin contains a photoprotective pigment called melanin to protect from UVB, UVA, and blue visible light. This pigment is a redox UV-absorbing agent and functions as a shield to prevent direct UV action on the DNA of epidermal cells. In addition, melanin indirectly scavenges reactive oxygenated species (ROS) formed during the UV-inducing oxidative stress on the skin. The amounts of melanin in the skin depend on the phototype. In most phenotypes, endogenous melanin is not enough for full protection, especially in the summertime. Thus, photoprotective molecules should be added to commercial sunscreens. These molecules should show UV-absorbing capacity to complement the intrinsic photoprotection of the cutaneous natural pigment. This review deals with (a) the use of exogenous melanin or melanin-related compounds to mimic endogenous melanin and (b) the use of a number of natural compounds from plants and marine organisms that can act as UV filters and ROS scavengers. These agents have antioxidant properties, but this feature usually is associated to skin-lightening action. In contrast, good photoprotectors would be able to enhance natural cutaneous pigmentation. This review examines flavonoids, one of the main groups of these agents, as well as new promising compounds with other chemical structures recently obtained from marine organisms.

The production of melanin pigments by melanocytes and their quantity, quality, and distribution play a decisive role in determining human skin, eye, and hair color, and protect the skin from adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and oxidative stress from various environmental pollutants. Melanocytes reside in the basal layer of the interfollicular epidermis and are compensated by melanocyte stem cells in the follicular bulge area. Various stimuli such as eczema, microbial infection, ultraviolet light exposure, mechanical injury, and aging provoke skin inflammation. These acute or chronic inflammatory responses cause inflammatory cytokine production from epidermal keratinocytes as well as dermal fibroblasts and other cells, which in turn stimulate melanocytes, often resulting in skin pigmentation. It is confirmed by some recent studies that several interleukins (ILs) and other inflammatory mediators modulate the proliferation and differentiation of human epidermal melanocytes and also promote or inhibit expression of melanogenesis-related gene expression directly or indirectly, thereby participating in regulation of skin pigmentation. Understanding of mechanisms of skin pigmentation due to inflammation helps to elucidate the relationship between inflammation and skin pigmentation regulation and can guide development of new therapeutic pathways for treating pigmented dermatosis. This review covers the mechanistic aspects of skin pigmentation caused by inflammation.

Ultraviolet-induced skin darkening is often used as a clinical model to assess the efficacy of active ingredients aimed at modulating skin pigmentation ; targeting pigmentary skin disorders. Studying Ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin pigmentation therefore presents challenges due to the complex pigmentation kinetics involved. This work aimed to develop a population pharmacokinetic (popPK) model to describe the UV pigmentation kinetics, compare products efficacy with their corresponding vehicle in terms of elimination, i.e., the efficacy to decrease pigmentation, and conduct a meta-analysis on the elimination rate constants (ke) resulting from the model to compare different products. The use of popPK model is limited to the statistical framework (i.e. differential equation modeling) and this paper does not aim to conduct a formal popPK analysis of the pigmentation. A one-compartment model appropriately accounted for the observed kinetics. The model fits were satisfactory, with data symmetrically distributed around the identity line and individual weighted residuals showing no deviation from normality. Overall, the integration of popPK modeling and meta-analysis represents a novel and promising approach to advancing our understanding of pigmentation kinetics following UV exposure and evaluating the comparative efficacy of skin lightening agents against UV-induced pigmentation based on ke values. Further research in cosmetical product development could lead to more applications of popPK models allowing for a greater understanding of the mechanisms at play in cosmetic product efficacy.

Acne vulgaris is a common inflammatory disease. Among patients with darker skin phototypes (Fitzpatrick III–VI), the inflammatory processes of acne stimulate excess melanogenesis and abnormal melanin deposition, leading to pigmentary sequelae known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory erythema in all skin tones, although post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is more common in darker skin and post-inflammatory erythema in lighter skin. These pigmentary alterations can be long lasting and are often more distressing to patients than the active acne lesions. This article discusses what is known about acne-related pigmentation, much of which is extrapolated from general study of nonspecific pigment deposition. Because dyspigmentation poses both a significant clinical concern to patients and a therapeutic challenge to clinicians, we formed a working group consisting of pigmentary experts with the aim of increasing awareness and education of acne-related pigmentary sequelae.