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When and Where Is Iran? Fragments of Ethnographic Work in Iran
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Journal Article
When and Where Is Iran? Fragments of Ethnographic Work in Iran
2020
Overview
A perfect railway station, according to Heidegger, is one that never fails to offer a train ready to depart when one walks in. Otherwise, the station becomes a site of boredom, an essential mood that one experiences as being dragged by time, held in limbo.1 However, on a winter day in 1980 the railway station in Ahwaz was neither a perfect station nor a site of boredom. The station welcomed `Abbas with an uncanny scene of departed bodies when he walked in: “It was then that I truly realized that the war had begun.” A few months back, when Iraq dropped its first bomb on Kermanshah, that very first bomb hit Maryam's neighborhood. Her parents were at work. Her little sister was injured. Through the echoes of explosions and screams, she too realized that something, something immense and unknown, had begun. I interviewed `Abbas, now in his sixties, and Maryam, now in her forties, several times at a small office in central Tehran. The office belonged to a talkative middle-aged man who was in the illegal business of selling wolves’ skins and talismans to the superrich.
Publisher
Cambridge University Press
