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Stripes, Checks, and Flowers: Textile Patterns in the Murals of Lepakshi, South India
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Stripes, Checks, and Flowers: Textile Patterns in the Murals of Lepakshi, South India
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Journal Article
Stripes, Checks, and Flowers: Textile Patterns in the Murals of Lepakshi, South India
2019
Overview
More than 500 persons populate the narrative paintings on the ceilings of the Virabadhra Temple in Lepakshi, Andhra Pradesh, built under the Vijayanagara ruler Achyutaraya during the first half of the sixteenth century. The costumes donned by the gods and people in the paintings can be taken as representatives of textiles en vogue during the sixteenth century. They demonstrate not only trade connections within India but also testify to imported textiles from Ottoman Turkey or Safavid Iran. The painted textiles show a wide spectrum of patterns. Some of them bear a close similarity to extant cotton textiles produced in Gujarat for export to Egypt and Indonesia in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Others were manufactured in workshops along the Coromandel Coast for export to Indonesia in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. By comparing these extant textiles with the painted ones, possible techniques are suggested for the Lepakshi fabrics.
